If you're looking to purchase a bit of garb from the 15th - 16th century, you might find this info helpful.  This is sort-of a common Q and A that I've put together from my clients and bidders over the years. Hope it helps :)

--Frankie (welldressedlady)

Q: What's the right size bodice for me?

A:  Most costumers will tell you that you should look for something that's two to three inches smaller than your actual measurements.  So, if you're a 36 bust, 32 waist, a bodice that's 34/30 will fit you great. HOWEVER...the smaller the bodice, the more "squish" you should be expect, and the more you'll look forward to getting the darn thing off at the end of the day.  If you're going to be participating in a faire or similar event for 8 hours or more, you might prefer a bodice that's only one inch smaller all around.  You should also keep in mind that your measurements will change after a big meal (or "feast"), so a back or side lacing bodice with a modesty panel will allow you to relax those laces a bit while your food digests.  If you're a very small lady, then really you don't have much to squish -- your rib cage ain't movin' no matter how much you tug on those laces! -- so you should also aim for something close to your actual measures. 

Q:  What type of bodice is historically accurate?

A: Well, that's a big question to answer, but here are a few things to keep in mind.  First of all, they didn't have princess seams which are the seams between your front center and side seams (or back center and side seams). The often curve towards the arm opening or to the shoulder, but in general they show off your curves in a very non-period way.  During Tudor and Elizabethan times, ladies tried to flatten and lift the chest.  This was accomplished by using just side seams or side-back seams in the bodice.  Most bodices would have had a square neckline that can be quite low, and very wide shoulders. Some bodices have a very high-neck, which comes up to the chin.  The waist of the bodice however always stops at the natural waistline, it did not come down over the hips as some modern patterns suggest.  It was quite common for ladies bodices (as well as men's doublets) to have decorative tabs (picadilles), shoulder rolls, and trim. 

Bodices were usually worn over a corset which was heavily boned, usually the stays were made from whale bones (hence the name).  Most seamstresses will sew enough boning into your bodice so that you don't need to wear a corset, but always ask to be sure! Steel boning is a MUST for the front and back of the bodice, otherwise your bodice will curl up over time (a very strange look!).  I sometimes use plastic boning at the sides because it's faster, cheaper, and possibly more comfortable then steel stays. 

I was always told grommets are not true to period, however I recently met another costumer who saw extant garments on her trip to through europe that had little hand-made grommets in them!  When and how these creations came into use is anyone's guess, but it seems they could have been even decorative additions to the bodice.  Grommets are very convenient and easy to use so I was very happy to take them off my list of naughty costuming cheats, however lacing rings and hand-sewn eyelets were far more common it seems. 

Q:  What type of fabric/materials should I look for in my garb?

A:  Velvet, velveteen, silk (dupioni), linen, brocades and damask with relatively large patterns.  Also look for trims with geometric shapes (not large sweeping or circular patterns).  Cotton is controverisal I think, it is a "new world" fabric if you really think about it, but it can *look* like linen,  and is much cheaper so I often use it.  Make sure your bodice is lined or interlined  with a fabric like canvas or duck cloth, this keeps it from sliding up to your neck when you cinch it up. 

If you must use a synthetic fiber, try for something that looks and drapes like a natural fiber.  Most importantly, avoid modern colors (e.g., bright pink).  I'm not an expert on dying, but I look for colors that one might plausibly find in nature since that's where they found their dyes in renaissance times. 

Q:  What kinds of skirts should I purchase?

A:  During the day, they would have pleated their skirts into a waistband.  With that said, a slightly A-line or gored skirt with an elastic or drawstring waistband can usually pass if the material is lightweight.  If you're going to purchase an overskirt (usually split in the front to reveal an underskirt), there are two types of pleats you should aim for:  cartridge (by far the most common), or knife.  "Gathering" is a modern technique and was not common during Renaissance times. Some seamstresses will attach the skirt to the bodice, but all evidence I've seen suggests that was not the common practice.

Q:  What about sleeves?

A:  If you're going for a peasant look, then I think it's ok to go around with just your chemise. However, if you're going for a higher station, then you should consider adding tie-on sleeves to your bodice.  Yes, that's right, tie-on, they didn't sew them on!  Sleeves were considered "accessories" during this time. It was very expensive to purchase a new gown, but one might purchase a new set of sleeves and forepanel (they should go together) making an old gown look new again.

It's not uncommon for a seamstress to spend many more hours working on the slashes, puffs, and beading of sleeves then she does on the gown itself.  The same thing holds true today, a fully embellished sleeve can take me several weeks to sew, however there is a solution for the lady on a budget.  Buy a simple pair of narrow or panned sleeves from your seamstress, and add the pearls and trim yourself.  If you've never picked up a needle and thread before, I assure you, it's really not that hard.  I've had 6 year old girls help me beed sleeves at SCA events, so I'm confident you can do it too.  Look for a historical portrait for inspiration (that's what I do) and ask your seamstress for help if need be. 

Q:  What accessories should I purchase?

A:  At the very least you'll need a good chemise/camica/smock to wear under your bodice.  This was typically a linen undergarment that was worn often at night as well.  A light-weight muslin (more modern version) of this usually works well as it isn't really seen if you're wearing sleeves.  I would also suggest a hoop slip and bumroll.  Make sure to take your measurements with these items ON if you plan to purchase a gown or skirt from an ebay seller.  If you're middle class or higher, you should have some jewelry, at least silver, and if you're upper class or noble only gold and pearls will do!  Finally, a lady would have a nice hat or something to cover her head.  These are not as easy to come by, but I often reseve my scrap fabric to have a hat made which matches my gown.

If you have questions regarding this discussion, please feel free to message me via ebays message system!