Record Grading and Cleaning- All you need to know, and then some!

Absolutely perfect in every way. It certainly has never been played, and is possibly even still sealed. Even sealed records should be suspect. Unless you know absolutely what an album cover should look like, you still may never know what edition of the record you are buying. Also, record dealers in the 50’s, 60’s, and 70’s were notorious for resealing records if they had been returned. Surprisingly enough, you can never be sure that the record and cover match. There have been instances when sealed records, upon being opened, have contained records by different artists from the same label! Should be used sparingly as a grade, If at all.

Near Mint (NM or M-)

A nearly perfect record. Many dealers won't give a grade higher than this implying (correctly) that no record is ever truly perfect. The record should show no obvious signs of wear at all. Nothing wrong with the record, label, or cover.

Very Good Plus (VG+)

Generally worth 50 percent of the Near Mint value. A Very Good Plus record will show some signs that it was played and otherwise handled by a previous owner who took great care of it. Record surfaces may show some signs of wear and may have slight scuffs or very light scratches that don't affect one's listening experiences. Slight warps that do not affect the sound are "OK". The label may have some ring wear or discoloration, but it should be barely noticeable. The spindle hole will not have been misshapen by repeated play. In general, if not for a couple things wrong with it, this record would be Near Mint. All but the most mint-crazy collectors will find a Very Good Plus record highly acceptable.

Generally worth 25 percent of Near Mint value. Many of the defects found in a VG+ record will be more pronounced in a VG disc. Surface noise will be evident upon playing, especially in soft passages and during a song's intro and fade, but will not overpower the music otherwise. Groove wear will start to be noticeable, as with light scratches (deep enough to feel with the tip of your finger) that will affect the sound. Labels may be marred by writing, or have tape or stickers (or their residue) attached.

Generally worth 10-15 percent of the Near Mint value. Good does not mean Bad! A record in Good or Good Plus condition can be put onto a turntable and will play through without skipping. But it will have significant surface noise and scratches and visible groove wear (on a styrene record, the groove will be starting to turn white). It is a common item, you'll probably find another copy in better shape eventually. Pass it up. But, if it's something you have been seeking for years, and the price is right, get it...but keep looking to upgrade.

Poor (P), Fair (F)

Generally worth 0-5 percent of the Near Mint price. The record is cracked, badly warped, and won't play through without skipping or repeating. Give ‘em to a young collector! They’ll love it, and you may introduce them to something new!

First of all, you must know what kind of records there are. There are several different types of records.

Vinyl:

Vinyl records are usually tapered at the outer edge of the record. If you have a colored record or picture disc, you can be 99.9 percent sure that your record is vinyl. Vinyl records will tend to be heavier than the other types of records. If you thump a vinyl record (not recommended) on the label, you’ll hear a hearty, low “thud” reverberate loudly from the record. Almost all 12” LP’s will be made from vinyl. Only budget labels, sold originally at a much lower price, will be made out of anything but vinyl.

Styrene is a material mostly used from the early 1960’s onward for ‘45’ rpm records. Styrene records are seldom, if ever, tapered at the outer edge of the record. Unlike vinyl records, styrene records are not at all flexible, and break very easily. They most always have thin paper labels, which may show signs of peeling away from the record. During the late 60’s and early 70’s, some record companies such as Bell and Mala used a “painted” label. These records, in my experience, are not common… but don’t usually garner a higher price either. If you thump a styrene record (not recommended) on the label, you will hear a very light “dink” reverberate quickly from the record. Some budget label LP’s are also made from styrene. They will exhibit most of the same qualities as a styrene ‘45’.

‘45’ rpm records have long been the workhorse of the industry. Selling at a much lower price than the album version, they were subject to repeated plays. It is harder to tell the surface quality of a vinyl ‘45,‘ but styrene ‘45’s show it easily. A worn styrene ‘45’ will exhibit a white hue to the record’s surface when viewed in strong light. Any good styrene ‘45’ will still be shiny and should reflect strong light. Still, with styrene, you can never be sure. Handling of most ‘45’ rpm records was haphazard, at best. More often than not, they were stored without being placed back into their paper sleeve. Finding a ‘45’ in an original company sleeve is always a plus! You should also note that most ‘45’ rpm records exist on both vinyl AND styrene, so always be on the lookout. That worn out styrene record you have may show up at some flea market in a “worse looking, but better sounding” vinyl form!

Plastic-coated cardboard records actually came to prominence during the Great Depression. They were used as a cheap alternative to the shellac records of the day. During the late 40’s through the early 90’s, cardboard records were most often used as “premium” items, appearing in and (if you can believe it) ON cereal boxes. They were also sent through the mail as postcards with birthday greetings or religious messages on them. You should easily be able to tell if you’ve got one of these. Be careful, however, they bend and crease very easily.

What I call “film plastic” records are usually square, extremely thin (like 35mm negatives,) and are extremely flexible. They were used throughout the 70’s into the 80’s as magazine inserts. I have three in my collection: one from National Geographic, one from Hustler, and one from Reader’s Digest . When trying to play one of these records, you will almost always have to place a heavy coin on the label to keep it from slipping on the turntable. Most of these will play at 33 and 1/3 rpm.

What was the most prominent record company in the USA (perhaps the world) thinking when they introduced DynaFlex in the early 70’s? I mean, you could literally turn a DynaFlex record into a taco! This was a flop, to say the least. Whether it was to cut back on vinyl use, or shipping weight (or both,) it was a bad idea. The sad thing about it is, a lot of great albums saw their original release on this atrocity of a medium. The up side to this is that RCA did re-release many of these records in the 80’s on standard, yet still thin, vinyl. RCA records never did get back to the great vinyl they used before DynaFlex. My advice: Unless you have to have the original pressing, buy a version of the album that doesn’t have the word DynaFlex at the bottom of the label. DynaFlex RCA Victor records have black, orange, and tan labels that always say DynaFlex at the bottom.

-Non-vinyl 78’s. Unless you are highly skilled, and know what company used what materials, never attempt to clean a non-vinyl 78 with water. Some companies actually used a cardboard biscuit at the center of their records that will swell and destroy the shellac coating on the outside. Most 78’s only have value if they are in pristine condition anyway, and almost all have an inherent amount of surface noise. Due to the fact that they were being phased out as a format, 78’s from the late 50’s and early 60’s are very valuable and should be handled (if at all) with care. If you play a 78, try to use a lightweight tone arm with a modern turntable. If you have the option, always play a 78 with the MONO switch on. Another option: Turn your balance to the channel that sounds the best during playback. Only London records experimented with stereo 78’s, but I don’t know if any went into production.

-All cardboard records. Simple explanation? Water and paper don’t mix!

-”Film Plastic” records. Never wash them directly with water and soap. Sprinkle a small amount of water on a clean cotton cloth, and lightly wipe in the direction of the groove while using a slight lifting motion, periodically switching to a clean section of the towel.

Start by going to Wal-Mart and purchasing Equate Hypoallergenic Tearless Baby Wash. It’s super mild, it removes stuck in dirt and mold from the grooves, and it’s cost effective. It can be applied directly to the record, or mixed half water, half product, and dispensed from a bottle with a pump directly to the record. It sells for around $.98, and the modern collector should always have some on hand.

You will also need some very soft, clean cotton cloths to dry the record with. I use plain white t-shirts that have outgrown their usefulness. They tend to be extremely soft, due to being washed several times over, and are also very absorbent. Never use a t-shirt with applied graphics, as they will scratch the record.

It would also be helpful to have a floor fan to carefully prop the record against after drying. This will help speed the drying of the label.

Speaking of labels… never wash the label too hard. The label will deteriorate if washed too hard. RCA Victor ‘45’ records from 1949 with gold print should never be wet. The gold print comes off when you touch it, let alone get it wet! Paper labels on styrene have a tendency to come off slightly, or altogether. Try to keep these as dry as possible. If a label does come off, gently set the label aside (printed side down,) and dry the groove portion of the record. Pat the area dry where the label was located, then gently pat the label dry. If the label sticks to your cloth, then there’s a good chance there’s enough glue on the label to reaffix it to the record. Allow the record to dry thoroughly. If that doesn’t work, you may also use a small amount of paste or Elmer‘s school glue, applied in an even layer around the label area with your fingers. Replace the label carefully, and allow the glue to dry overnight. Handle the record with care, and never wash it again. I will address stickers on labels later on in the directions.

Now you are ready to clean!

If you skipped the above section, it would benefit you to read it before you start.

IMPORTANT! If your record is extremely dirty, try to remove as much dirt as you can by running it under cold water first. If you try to clean a record in this state, you’ll just grind dirt into the grooves. I’ve cleaned records that were so dirty they were brown, just to end up with a VG++ record!

1. Turn the COLD tap on to a moderate stream. Cover the record with enough water to activate the soap. (You may also wash in a bathtub full of water if you have a lot of records to clean. Just submerse the record quickly in the water.)

2. Use a small to medium amount of the soap. I usually apply a thin strip all the way around both sides of the record.

3. Using the flat part of your fully extended fingers, gently rub the soap into the grooves using a circular motion. Try not to get any soap directly on a paper label. Concentrated soap will release the glue.

4. Continue step three until you are satisfied that the record is clean.

5. Rinse the record under a gentle stream of water until you see no more evidence of soap on the surface. Do this twice, if you’re not sure!

6. Using your cotton t-shirt in your left hand, grasp the record with the cloth, and use the remaining cloth to wipe the record dry following the direction of the groove. This practice will insure that you are drying the grooves effectively. The record will still be damp, so switch to a dry section of the cloth, or another t-shirt, and begin again. NEVER rub the label, instead, pat the label with a dry cloth until dry.

7. Place the record in front of the floor fan on a low speed. This will accelerate the drying process. In lieu of a floor fan, place the record at an angle against a wall, and allow to dry overnight. Never place a freshly cleaned record flat, or in a sleeve. That’s how mold is born, and mold eats paper.

8. After cleaning a ‘45’, you may notice that a small amount of water has seeped into the label around the spindle hole. 90 percent of the time, this will go away when the record is completely dry. If it doesn’t, you can try to push it out by gently pressing the afflicted areas. This doesn’t always work.

9. After cleaning ANY record, handle it with care, and never touch the surface. Washing a record once is okay. Washing a record several times may damage it.

At this point, I’d like to discuss removing stickers from labels. Most of the time, you’ll find records from the 50’s that someone loved a lot, and didn’t want to loose. They will have a “catalogue number sticker” somewhere on the label, or you might find a “this record belongs to…” sticker somewhere near the top of the label. 9 times out of 10, the record is perfect, except for the sticker. Here’s an advanced option for the collector to restore this item. NEVER do this to a paper label (you WILL remove the label itself), or any record made after 1970. Chances are the glue hasn’t deteriorated enough to try this.

1. Right after step 5 above, place a concentrated amount of the recommended soap on the sticker with your fingers, and gently work it into the sticker for a few seconds. Run a full sink or tub of cold water, and wait one or two minutes.

2.While holding the record submerged, gently start rubbing the sticker carefully, paying close attention to the state of the label. If the label starts to peel, stop and dry the record; that sticker won’t come off. If the sticker starts to come off, firmly take the largest detached portion of the sticker and gently pull the sticker diagonally with even pressure. The trickiest part of the whole operation is right at the end. As you perform this operation, you should do it slower at the end. Don’t get excited and rip it off. Chances are you’ll take part of the label with it. When the label is removed, follow steps 1 through 9 from above (to insure that all the glue is gone before you dry it,) and enjoy that pretty label as it spins on your turntable. As a side note, I have found nothing that will take ink or pencil off a label or dust jacket. Trust me, I’ve tried everything! Never try to erase pencil from a dust jacket or label. I would rather know that “Suzie” loved the record than look at a discolored spot! Just stay on the lookout for a clean copy, and enjoy the one you have.

If you’re new to my process of cleaning records, don’t try this right off the bat. Better yet, take a G condition record with a sticker on it, and practice. Practice does make perfect.

Clean records last longer, sound better, and look better. They also command higher prices. Besides, who wants to show off a record with fingerprints and dust all over it? If you follow my detailed directions, your records will last a lifetime! Happy listening!

-Eric Lee