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Record Grading 101

by: rockawayaz( 3488Feedback score is 1000 to 4,999) Top 5000 Reviewer
129 out of 132 people found this guide helpful.
Guide viewed: 7002 times Tags: Records | Record Collecting | Record Grading | Sealed Records | Beatles


 

     Why is a record grading guide needed? How many times have you purchased records
that were graded M- (or worse, M), and received a scratched record with split seams,
writing on cover and water damage? While this may be an extreme example, it is an all
too common scenario. This guide is to help both buyers and sellers with grading issues.
If you question the need for this guide, all you have to do is look at the feedback of Ebay
record sellers. Most negative feedback for sellers concern (in the buyer’s opinion), poorly
graded records.

     Why is this? Well, the first reason unfortunately, is dishonesty. All one
has to do is look at a seller’s feedback. If he has a large number of feedback, and yet the
percentage is in the 97% range or lower, you can be assured there were major
discrepancies with condition. These sellers should know better, and the best you can do is
be very careful if you consider buying from them. Even if we ignore those (since this
guide concerns grading only), that still leaves a large number of negative feedback. This
is due mainly to being uneducated in grading. This guide hopefully will help clear up any
confusion in this regard. Most respected U.S. record dealers use the Goldmine Magazine
standard for record grading, and that is the standard we will be using. However, before
we start, there are a few things that need to be said.


     (1) First and foremost, age has nothing to do with grading. That means that a wrecked
1950’s record is still a wrecked 1950’s record. “Excellent condition for a 50 year old
record”, is not a valid grade. If you were buying a vintage record, and were told this,
 expecting a beautiful record, you would be quite disgusted when you saw that the record
 was in poor condition. On a similar note, “I haven’t played it for years” is also not a valid grade.
A record does not repair itself with age!


     (2) Value has no bearing on condition. A $5 record is graded the same as a $5000 record.
While a $5000 record may warrant more description, the overall grading standards should
 be exactly the same.

     (3) Records need to be graded closely under a strong light, preferably under a Halogen or 100W 
lamp. Ambient light is not good enough. You can easily try this yourself. Take a disc that
looks to be in good condition, and then look at the same disc under a strong lamp, the
difference will amaze you.

    (4) Records and covers both need to be graded. Too many times, the seller doesn't feel that
the cover is important -The cover is equally important! If a listing only has one grade, it
should apply to both cover and record (and any inserts if included). 

     (5) The grades below refer to overall wear. They do not include other non-wear markings,
such as: (a) price stickers on covers (b) cut corners (c) tears on cover (d) seam splits (e)
writing on labels/covers etc. These all need to be addressed separately in the description.

     (6) Sealed records should be bought with caution. Sealed records generally are quite rare,
and are increasing in value every year. Knowing this, there is a disturbing trend on Ebay
with regard to sealed records. Without using names, there are numerous sellers who
reseal records. Even more disturbing is the newest trend, whereas records are resealed,
and price stickers from other records are carefully attached. While we can’t go into the
various signs of spotting resealed records, the best you can do is to look at the seller’s
feedback. If you see any nasty feedback about fraud or resealing, stay away! Having said
that, there are many reputable dealers who legitimately sell original sealed records. If you
know the seller, or see a large number overwhelmingly positive feedback, you can
usually feel secure. Buyers are willing to pay high premiums for sealed records
by reputable dealers. If you see valuable sealed records (Beatles’ LPs for example)
consistently selling for much lower than market prices by a particular dealer, that should
be a warning sign.

      (7) Sellers who always use Mint should be a warning sign to a buyer. Almost all records
(cover/record/inserts) have even a minimal amount of wear. Sometimes even new freshly
unsealed records may have a slight scratch, or a bent corner. If you were to buy any
records on the MCA label in the 1980’s you would know this, as the records
were invariably scuffed upon opening. There ARE mint records, but these are few and far
between. This would be a record that has absolutely no scratches when viewed under a
strong light (see above). There are no bent corners. There is no cover wear. There is no
writing etc. Most U.S. records (with the exception of audiophile LPs) do not make the
Mint grade when even brand new! If one wants to see truly Mint records, one needs to
look at unplayed, audiophile records, as well as German, English and Japanese pressings.
Not only do they sound much better, but there was also generally much more quality
control in the pressings.

     (8) Records sold on Ebay are almost always visually graded, not play graded.
 It is simply not realistic to expect sellers to play everything they sell.
 
Whew, that’s a mouthful! So, finally here we go...


 
Goldmine Magazine Record Grading Standard
 
Mint    Perfect, flawless. Legitimate sellers seldom use this grade. When a record is truly
Mint, it deserves (and receives) a large premium over other grades. 
 
M- or NRMT (Mint Minus or Near Mint) – Usually the highest grade. Records from the
1950s & 60s in this condition are truly rare. 
 
VG++ (Very Good Plus Plus) – Beautiful collectible condition. Only the slightest of
wear, certainly no deep scratches.

VG+ (Very Good Plus) - Great condition. Well cared for.
 
VG (Very Good) – Still good condition, but more wear than VG+. 
 
VG- (Very Good Minus) - Generally not collectible condition, unless it’s a super rare
record. Most dealers avoid records in this shape or below.
 
G (Good) – Lots of wear, but still playable. The most confusing grade! Good really does
not mean good. It is actually quite poor condition.
 
WBR (Wrecked But Rare) – Otherwise known as a Starter Copy. Not cracked, but a
starter copy.
 
I hope that the above information is helpful to you, whether you are a buyer or seller.
Who knows, maybe we can start seeing much less negative feedback being posted.
Record collecting is an extremely fun hobby/business. Let’s keep it that way!

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Guide ID: 10000000000732032Guide created: 02/07/06 (updated 07/01/08)

 
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rockawayaz
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