When considering a rabbit as a pet, 4 H project, or potential show animal  there are many things to consider.  The American Rabbit Breeders Association lists 42 breeds - ranging in size from the 2 lb Netherland Dwarf to the Flemish Giants, between 16-20 lbs. Some breeds are better tempered than others, and some require very special grooming, such as the long haired breeds. As you can imagine this is a vast subject, and I will only try to touch on some of most important topics.  I professionally raised rabbits for 15 years, specializing in the smallest , & most popular breed, the Netherland Dwarf, weighing as an adult between 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 lbs.  I also have experience in raising and breeding Dwarf Hotots, Holland Lops, Fuzzy Lops, and Flemish Giants.  Each breed has it's own personalty type, environmental  & feed requirements.  It is best to visit an experienced breeder and ask MANY QUESTIONS.  Be sure and let them know if you are interested in JUST  A PET, a 4H project ( as there are specific guidelines & rules to follow) or showing your animal.  Your 4H Project animal or Show Bunny should have Pedigree Papers and be free from BREED DISQUALIFICATIONS, as each breed of Rabbit has their own specific body type, ear length, color & markings, weight requirements and showing rules. Children in 4 H and  those participating in Youth Rabbit shows are expected to raise, handle, groom and place their own animals on the show tables - so size, weight and type of care required should be of first consideration in selecting an animal.  You can contact the American Rabbit Breeders Association to locate breeders in your area or obtain information about & attend one of the hundreds of RABBIT SHOWS year round (they are FREE) to see all the sizes, colors and  learn about the specific environments & care each breed requires. It is always best to buy from a breeder than a pet  shop so you can ask the important questions about their background. For the most part, BUCKS make better pets than DOES. Personalities pass on in animals, just like humans, and animals learn from their environment - so never buy a bunny from high strung, nervous or agressive parents. If your buck sprays at maturity or is a bit testy, neutering is an inexpensive solution and will halt the behavior. Bucks often "fall in love" with female owners.  Does require a full hysterectomy which is a big operation for a bunny!  Does on the other hand are very territorial, protecting their space, and even though these domesticated animals are able to breed through out  the year, are more hormonal at least once a month.  Keep in mind 4 H or show animals cannot be "neutered", and if you aren't sure if you want the responsibility of breeding - a buck maybe the best choice.  Bucks can still breed at least to age 4 - but Does should be bred within their first year - or  breeding complications can occur.  If you do decide to have bunnies, be sure and talk to a breeder, and additionally, obtain a Guide to Raising Rabbits  from the ARBA  as there is much to know about nesting boxes, deformities, stuck babies, etc.  Many people unload their "experiments" in breeding on the pet shops, who are well intentioned, but don't usually know anything about the animals or appropriate care. Most breeds of rabbits should be housed in an all wire cage with 1/2 x 1 inch floor wire - so their droppings fall thru to a pan for easy removal.  A heathy animal ,without foot fungus, can live up to 12 yrs in this clean environment. Netherlands can live in an 18" x 18" cage and many breeds are just fine in a 24" x 24" cage.  Urine guards are essential, along with a feeder & crock or water bottle. You can supply a pine board for them to sit on, but it is not necessary and this will be the spot many will choose to soil. (Some rabbits can be litter box trained, but don't count on it when choosing a pet.)  Rabbits love to chew and you can provide white pine pieces for their entertainment.  Some like to play with cat  plastic bizzy balls - be careful they don't break.   Thick layer of newspaper in  the cage PAN is the most convenient to roll up and dispose of droppings and keeps the odor down.  Rabbits need good air ventilation so never purchase a rabbit from a STRONG odor environment or one that has a runny nose or eyes.  Indoor rabbits need cages cleaned at least twice weekly.  Purchase your mainstay pelleted feed from a Farm type Co-op, or a professional livestock feed store and ALWAYS buy the same brand!  Feeds should  have between 15% to 17% protein and very high fiber (20% is great, but harder to find). If you must change brands, GRADUALLY mix new with old or the sudden change can cause death.  To supplement the fiber rating in your feed, rabbits love a quality horse grade hay - a blend of grasses such as Timothy Hay or hay cubes.  Do not purchase goofy treats, etc from the pet store - they can cause loose stools!  Best treats are carrots, brocolli stalks, cabbage, whole oats even with sheath, whole livestock barley, whole sunflower seeds, and RAISINS (a few a day - rabbit candy!) The pelleted feed is the most important part of their diet and treats should be limited to a few times per week.  Always check for adverse reactions - their stools should be round balls!  (Occassionally they will pass the "grape cluster of softer stool" this is usually ingested and contains special enzymes for their digestive tract  - nothing to be concerned about)  Contrary to popular believe rabbits don't NEED to have outside exercise if they have someone who pets them, gives them a raisin and pays attention to them daily. If housed out doors - they need  special protection from the cutting wind, extra feed in the winter plus hay for munching & bedding , and unfrozen water at least twice daily.  Rabbits cannot eat with out water and  they love hot tap water in cold weather. Summer is even more stressful - temperatures in the 80's are dangerous, and fans, shade are mandatory. Frozen bottles are helpful, but cool basements are great environments with a florescent light above their cage.  Fur balls can be a real health hazard - introducing your bunny  to "CAT LAX" such as Petromalt (NOT the fish flavored version)  as a treat when young - by presenting a 1/2 " squeeze once a week will help keep their system clean during shedding or moulting season.  Thank you and I hope you find this guide helpful.