Propagating Your Roses

 

 

Propagating roses by rooting and cuttings is a simple way to obtain more plants. Some varieties are usually self-rooted. Other varieties have the upper portion budded or grafted onto a root stock; these root stocks are usually propagated from cuttings. "Old Garden Roses"heirlooms, shrub roses and miniature roses may be grown on their own roots/cuttings. Modern hybrid teas and floribundas are less predictable.

 

Many rose varieties cuttings are best taken from young stems of the current seasons growth. When taking cuttings from "non-stop" varieties select stems on which the flowers petals have just fallen.

 

Take roses cuttings with some leaves attached. The leaves provide sugars from photo-synthesis. When taking winter cuttings, November through January, some rose varieties will root without leaves. Depending upon the variety select cuttings with five leaves. The cuttings should be taken in the cool time of the day. Be careful not to let the cuttings dehydrate; place them in a poly bag, seal and place in a refrigerated area at 38-40F (3C). Allow a day in a refrigerator to seal the wound.

 

Before you take any cuttings be sure to choose a healthy, disease-free stem. The type of cut taken can vary. You can leave a bud and leaf node at the base. Or, leave just a smooth area of stem internode. For some varieties take the cuttings with a node at the base; the node area may  root more easily. Depending upon the age of the cutting, for an older cutting wound the base of the cutting by making 1/2 to 1 inch vertical slits with a knife.

 

Dip the basal end of the cuttings 3/4 to 1 inch into the dry powder rooting hormone, one by one or in small bundles. Make sure that the powder is evenly distributed in a thin even layer (1/32 to 1/16 inch) over the whole base of the cutting. Too much powder on the cuttings might result in excessive rooting where there is surplus powder. Root formation can be expected all over the part of the cutting covered with the powder. Avoid contact between the powder and foliage and other over ground parts of the stem since it may cause phyto toxicity. Tap off the excess powder. Plant the cuttings immediately in moist media. After treating cuttings take care of them.

 

Fill the pots firmly with a sterile potting mix which is moist not soggy. Several cuttings can be planted in the same pot. Treat the cuttings with rooting hormone powder.

 

To prevent the cuttings from dehydrating through the leaves and stems the cuttings are often propagated under mist systems in controlled greenhouses or tunnels, in cutting trays covered with plastic.

 

Maintain adequate moisture in the soil and air humidity. Commercial growers usually use mist system to prevent wilting. A fine mist of water is sprayed over the cuttings for a few seconds every few minutes. Another method is to stick the cuttings in pots or trays then cover and seal the pot with clear plastic; a poly bag works well when covering a small pot.You can also mist with spray bottles then cover with the poly bags if you dont have a misting system.

 

Construct "greenhouses" for the cuttings using empty two liter soft drink bottles small pots or cups. use a knife to cut off the bottom of the bottle where the solid-colored section is joined to the clear section. Discard the bottom. Keep the bottle cap. Use pots which fit into the bottle bottom. The top of the bottle should just fit snugly inside the pot rim. Place the top from the soda bottle over the cutting and press it gently into the soil. Make sure that there are no gaps through which evaporation could occur. Put the cap on the bottle, but do not tighten. After a few hours check the bottles to make sure there is some moisture condensed on the inside of each. If not, your soil may not have been moist enough and a small amount of additional water should be added. Place the bottles in a bright light but not in direct sunlight as below. In the hot Summer keep in bright shade to prevent over heating the tender plants.

 

Use large zip lock clear plastic food storage bags to create the greenhouse atmosphere. Fold the top of the bag down several inches in order to keep the zipper clean while filling the bag. Place some moist potting soil into the bag. Firm both soil and bag into a ball shape with a flattened bottom. Use a stick to poke a 2" deep hole in the soil not the plastic. Treat the cuttings with rooting hormones. Insert the cutting. and firm the soil tightly around it. Unfold the top of the bag and close most of the zipper, leaving the last inch open. Inflate the bag to expand it then close the remaining length. Finally, place the bag in indirect light as below.

 

Place the cutting pots in a place where heat does not heat the cuttings. The cuttings should have bright light to allow photosynthesis. In the spring many varieties will develop roots in ten days to two weeks. Some varieties can be rooted in three to four weeks. In the winter roots may form in four to eight weeks. To determine if a cutting is rooted you can tug lightly on it; if it resists being pulled out of the pot it is likely rooted.

 

Acclimation of the newly-rooted plants should be done gradually. After the cuttings are rooted remove discontinue the mist or remove the cover. Harden them off for a few days by putting the pots in the shade in a cool place. Once the plants have adjusted to normal humidity they can be place in regular pots to continue their growth. After the plants have a good root system move them into brighter light.