Have you ever started a painting job and found that the bristles on your brush are either fanning out like a feather duster or clumping together as though glued in place?

The likelihood is that you've been handed the wrong brush for the job.

Here are a few tips to ensure a smooth, easy paint job every time:

The rule of thumb is that natural goes with natural, man-made with man-made. That is to say if you are painting with acrylic latex paint (the most common type of paint for homeowners these days) you should use a polyester or nylon brush for the job. Latex is a man-made material; so are polyester and nylon. Use a natural bristle brush with a water-based acrylic latex and you'll have the natural hair bristles fan out like Rover's hair after you've given him a bath! Make sense?

The opposite is true for alkyd (oil-based) paint. Use a natural bristle brush for the project as it is a natural-occurring material like the oil used to make the paint (before a few modifications, of course). If you use a polyester and/or nylon brush with an alkyd paint, the bristles will clump together as though they have been melted, which in fact they slightly have. The chemical reaction of the solvent in the paint and the polyester/nylon is not a favorable one; you'll be tossing the brush before the job is through. 

Now to roller sleeves; the labelling on these can be very deceiving so let's make it simple. Skip the terms "smooth/semi-smooth/semi-rough/rough" surface references except in extreme circumstances (and we'll get to those in a minute). Basically, the type of paint you're using usually has more to do with the kind of roller sleeve you use than anything else does.

Consider why paint looks the way it does. Why is some paint shiny and other paint very dull? It has to do with how long the paint has been ground in the manufacturing process. To state is simply, dull or "flat" paint is quite coarse. This is why there is little light reflectance when you see it on a wall. Due to it's coarse nature, a thicker roller sleeve is necessary as it will be more difficult for the roller fibers to draw the paint in. Conversely, very shiny or "gloss" paint finishes are highly ground so that the paint itself is very fine. This will allow the roller fibers to draw it in very easily, requiring quite a low pile or "nap" on the roller sleeve. Are you still with me?

Very heavy roller sleeves for a basic paint job are unusual but make sure to check with your paint retailer for when these are necessary. Sometimes painting cinder block walls or other such awkward surfaces are much easier to handle with a thick nap roller sleeve. Extreme cases might also be when you are painting a textured ceiling or perhaps applying varnish to a table you are refinishing. Ceilings can be easily painted using a "slit foam" roller sleeve. These roller sleeves are made of foam and the nap is usually 3/4"-1" or 20-25mm in depth. The slits in the foam allow the roller to form around the peaks and valleys in the texturing, ensuring an even coat of paint. Foam rollers are also best when applying clear finishes to surfaces like tables and wooden doors. The foam holds its shape and allows the least amount of bubbles to form when rolling. Ask your paint retailer for more tips on painting ceilings and using clear finishes as there are many tricks of the trade.

Now that you know why brushes work the way they do, you'll never use the wrong brush again! Now that you understand how paint works with roller sleeves, you'll be more confident when making your choices for your next painting job!

Best of luck with your project!

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