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Packaging 101 Thinking Inside and Outside the Box

by: glorsstore( 4646Feedback score is 1000 to 4,999) Top 5000 Reviewer
103 out of 110 people found this guide helpful.
Guide viewed: 2730 times Tags: collectibles | antiques | packaging


[Before I begin, a bit about the United States Post Office and their rates.

USPS Postage Rates increased again in spring 2009, and will continue to climb. One of the reasons is the Post Office made a switch to 'shaped base pricing' two years ago. The reason for the switch was two-fold: 1.) To even the playing field in terms of package size and shape, and urge mailers to be more efficient with their mailings, and 2.) Operations of the USPS are not supported by taxpayer dollars. It depends on revenues from postage sales to exist. As costs of goods increase, especially with the rising fuel costs, postage rates must increase to meet these expenses.

To learn more about USPS rates, and obtain a rate schedule, start by going directly to the USPS website. I download a document listing the current rates to my desktop, and refer to it often.]

What is the most important thing you need to safely package a fine collectible for shipping? Patience. After having packaged and shipped over 5000 packages to eBay buyers, I can safely say I have packaged it all. My most memorable? A $950.00 Lladro figurine that broke... Yes, I'll never forget that shipment! Luckily, it was insured.

After that, I read everything I could get my hands on about packing delicate items. I am proud to say that every one of my packages has arrived safely since the Lladro. Some may say I over-pack. And, yes, my extra packing might bump it up an extra pound, but it is well worth it.

Along with having a few dishes break my first year or two selling on eBay, I took many a package to the Post Office, learning that I had under charged my customers for shipping, paying the extra out-of-pocket. Now, while preparing my listing, I loosely box my item and weigh it on a professional scale... and add about a pound for packing materials. I have begun to steer away from using the calculator in my listings; although it seems to be quite accurate for shipments within the US, I find that it is often inaccurate for international shipments. I ask international bidders to contact me prior to bidding or purchasing for shipping rates and Customs Form information.

Now on to the box... I try to always use clean, sturdy boxes... I use USPS Priority mail a lot. Their boxes are great: they're free, and they deliver them to me. I usually don't recycle boxes, and if I find boxes (which I will do on occasion for Media Mail and Parcel Post shipments), I don't pick up boxes that have been sitting out in the rain, as they tend to develop an odor. As a general rule, I ship new items in all new packaging, and will only use clean, recycled packaging on used items, such as collectibles.

Peanuts, peanuts, get your peanuts. I love packing peanuts! They're light-weight, and excellent for securing delicate collectibles. I will purchase them as a last resort (one advantage: you know they're clean and consistent), but now have several stores and small gift shops save them for me. I make sure that any recycled peanuts and materials that I collect are from smoke-free enviroments. Bubble wrap is almost a necessity. I purchase this in rolls, preferring the larger bubbles, or obtain them 'recycled' from a local healthfood store. The rolls are perforated about every foot, so it's quick and easy to use.

Periodically, I purchase end rolls of newsprint, which you can buy inexpensively from a local newspaper. Ink-free newsprint is great for wrapping non-breakable items, such as toys and non-ceramic collectibles, and for filling in 'open areas' in the package to keep items from shifting during shipment. I never use newspaper, and am surprised at the number of shipments I receive where fine collectibles are wrapped in newspaper. I've thought of using shredded paper, and have received shipments that use it, but find that it adds extra weight to the shipment.

I use white tissue paper generously. Most items that I ship are wrapped in white tissue paper... from clothing to toys. Even if I'm shipping something that is "MIB" (mint, in original box), I add a little tissue around the collectible to further protect it and keep it from moving. Clothing is wrapped in tissue, a 'Glor's Store' label added, and is then put directly in a Tyvek-type bag. If boxed, I secure all clothing in a plastic bag first, to protect the contents from any moisture during shipping.

After wrapping in tissue, I wrap most items in bubblewrap or newsprint. Every dish and collectible is then 'forted-in' with cardboard, or double-boxed. This is very important! If there is more than one dish, or other delicate item, separate them with cardboard ... don't let them touch each other -- this is very often the cause of broken dishes! Then, fill every nook and cranny with the packing peanuts. If the contents are not fragile, you may fill the spaces with the newsprint instead of peanuts. Whenever possible, I fill a plastic bag with peanuts and use this as a cushion. Customers don't appreciate it when they open a box and are surprised by a swarm of loose packing peanuts.

Last but not least, shake shake shake! NOTHING should move around inside the box. It should be a tight fit, but not too tight, or 'forced.' The box is now safe to tape up. I mark with labels and stamps 'FRAGILE', etc. Some people say this isn't necessary, but I want my customers to see that I took the time to and effort to carefully package each shipment. If the package is insured, I add an INSURED label. A well-cushioned package should be able to withstand a drop of several feet.

My reward? Almost every feedback I receive mentions my care in packaging!


Guide ID: 10000000000067929Guide created: 11/19/05 (updated 11/07/09)

 
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glorsstore
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