BUYING A PHONOGRAPH RECORD PLAYER NEEDLE

It can be quite complicated finding a needle (also called stylus) for your turntable if you don't have an identifying number for your needle, or the paperwork that came with the turntable.

The first identifier will be the brand name of your player.  It is good to get a model number, usually imprinted or tagged on the bottom or back of the unit.  However, each brand used many different cartridges and needles for their models.  The model number can identify your needle in some cases. 

The next identifier is the cartridge number.  The cartridge holds the needle, and most of them have an identifying number on them.  The older ceramic cartridges are usually held in the arm by a screw or two, which can be loosened to drop the cartridge (without disturbing the wires) so the number becomes visible.  The magnetic cartridges usually unplug by gently moving back and forth and unplugging by pulling toward you out of the arm.

Turntable manufacturers used different cartridges even within the same run of model numbers at times.  That is why the reference books are not always correct for finding your needle by model number.

The final identifier is the needle number.  Manufacturers of turntables assigned a number to each needle.  Then, after-market manufacturers assigned their own number to that needle.  There were many, many after-market manufacturers, and there are still some today.  Thus, there is some confusion about needle numbers...there are many for the same needle.

The needle originally sold by the manufacturer for their turntable is the best quality available.  The supply of these needles is limited, and some are very rare.  If possible, buy a genuine manufacturer needle.  Most of the manufacturers have been out of business, or no longer making needles, for a long time.  One day, the supply will totally run out.

After-market needles were and are made by many manufacturers.  Most of the after-market companies are also out of business, but some made excellent quality needles.

If I were buying a needle, I would first look for the genuine manufacturer's needle.  Next, I would look for a needle made by one of the older after-market manufacturers (a few are, Pfanstiehl, Empire, Transcriber, Electro-Voice, Fidelitone, Pageant, Walco, Recoton, Astatic).  These needles will usually state "new old stock".  In my experience, they are, 95% of the time, better quality needles than new stock manufactured today.  There are some steel needles being made today in a magnetic needle casing that will not last very long at all.  They are being called diamond needles.  To avoid that problem, know your seller and look for "new old stock" .  There are some good quality needles also being manufactured today, but it is difficult for the buyer to identify them.

The next thing important for the buyer is understanding the numbers and suffixes.  The Pfanstiehl number suffixes are as follows:  (From the Pfanstiehl Needle & Cartridge Guide)

Example of needle number:  164-DS73 is for an Astatic Cartridge; has a .7 mil diamond for Stereo-LP; and a 3 mil sapphire for 78.  The same needle with two stereo diamond tips would be 164-DD77.

D = Genuine Diamond

S = Synthetic Sapphire

1 = .001 or 1 mil tip for 16, 33 & 45 rpm MONAURAL

2 = .002 or 2 mil compromise tip for all MONAURAL

25 = .0025 or 2.5 mil tip for Transcription & 78 rpm

3 = .003 or 3 mil tip for 78 rpm

5 = .0005 or .5 mil tip for Stereo 33 & 45 rpm

6 = .0006 or .6 mil tip for Stereo 33 & 45 rpm

7 = .0007 or .7 mil tip for Stereo & Mono 33 & 45 rpm

E = Elliptical tip for stereo or mono 33 & 45 rpm.  Dimensions of ellipse(ex. .3 & .7) may appear under extra information column for magnetic cartridge needles. 

"M" means needle is made for MANUAL professional type turntable--has the highest internal compliance.

"T" means needle is for single play automatic.

"C" means needle is for Record Changers --slightly firmer to activate record changer mechanism.

"Q" means specially shaped tip for Discrete 4 Channel.

G, L, V, X & Z indicate minor differences in tracking force and compliance.

The suffix tells whether the needle has one tip or two, what the tips are made of; and the tip radius, which determines the records speeds it will play.

The original Pfanstiehl needles were manufactured in Waukegan, Illinois, and will be packaged in a box with the Pfanstiehl logo on the front in gold.  A plain black box, (also may be a Pfanstiehl,) is new stock, manufactured much more recently.  Some original Pfanstiehl packages contain original manufacturer's needles because of patent rights at the time.  Some other after-market manufacturers also sold original manufacturer's needles.  This information should be stated in the listing.  Many times Pfanstiehl numbers are used for reference for non-Pfanstiehl needles because the suffixes explain the needle so well and it became kind of a universal numbering system.

There is a reason manufacturers made synthetic sapphire needles.  The material records are made of were very different between the 45s LPs and 78 RPMs.  Some 45s made in the US were made of plastic, rather than vinyl.  There are a few specially made diamond needles made for these 45 RPM records.  78 RPMs are very fragile and not vinyl and a diamond is harder on the grooves and causes more wear on them.  Synthetic sapphire is less expensive, softer and lasts less time than diamond, but it causes less wear to your records.

My buyers at CAROLE'S NEEDLES have asked for much of this information.  E-mail me and I will help you find your needle.  No phonograph is too old.  Get out that vinyl and listen to some great sound!!!!!

Remember:  No needle lasts forever.

Osmium...........40 to 60 hours play

Sapphire..........80 to 100 hours play

Diamond LP.....800 to 1000 hours play

Diamond Stereo...400 to 600 hours play

Please enter below whether this guide was helpful or not.  Thanks.