Greetings to all numismatic collectors.

The following is a few points on grading your own material. US coins cover the time period from 1793 to present day coinage of the NEW Jefferson nickel.

Every coin produced by the US Mint has its flaws and points of interest. Opinions will very today as they have since the first coins struck and collecting began. Even with the different certification services you'll find a difference of opinion. A guide is just that.... A GUIDE. You determine the condition and possibly a few others would agree to assure your opinion.

First of all this is NOT a grading guide for all the numeric points in the current grading system. Nor is it to give grades to all the US coinage produced since the beginning of the US Mint production.

I must state at this point NEVER clean a coin. Please leave the coin AS IS for even the slightest scratch could destroy the value. It is like refinishing an old antique piece of furniture that if left alone would have brought more value than refinishing to a new state.

Second I would recomend to purchase the OFFICIAL GUIDE TO COIN GRADING and COUNTERFEIT DETECTION by PCGS (Professional Coin Grading Service). Another guide is helpful, but lacking the in-depth details, is the well-known RED BOOK by R. S. Yeoman. Let us not forget the ANA Grading Standards for this is one FULL of information and a sound foundation for the beginner. I recommend the ANA book since they set the standards.

I can not list here ALL the information that these books hold or the pictures to help in grading. Every coin that was produced has its high points that begin to show ware different from another design used. One need to get familar with these points in the series of interest. Do not expect to become an expert overnight for it will take time and a few 'Ooopps' to master any given issue. Just remember when viewing anothers item and an OPINION is given on grade it does not mean it is wrong because YOU disagree.

Another thing that really must be considered is the striking of the coin. Do you consider this? To some collectors this doesn't matter. It is your choice. Values do NOT reflect striking unless.... Full Split bands, Full Bell lines or Full Steps. Now if you are unfamilar with these terms you need to look for better reference material. Mercury dimes, Franklin halves and the Jefferson nickel have the seperation of striking values. A new comer to this elite group is the Full Torch on the Roosevelt dimes. Now good stikes are becoming more inportant to the picky collector and are a VERY big challenge to locate. I have seen where a normal BU coin about $4 to $6 retail sell well over $100 just because of having a FULL strike.

A really good example is the Lincoln cent that was introduced in 1909 and is still being produced today. In the early years (1909-1929) the obverse (Lincoln portrait) was generally weakly struck so all grading has been done using the reverse of the cent concentrating on the wheat stalks. The later years the obverse side (Lincolns portrait) striking was even to the reverse so the grading is determined using both sides of the cent.

If one is going to grade US coins it would be wise to have the reference books at hand and never try to push a coin to a grade higher than what your true opinion is. Even dealers have made costly mistakes due to lack of knowledge. Yes, buying coins as one grade and finding it really was lower so therefore a lower value than what they have paid for the item. Of course the opposite is true also. I have purchased from known dealers items they have graded and placed a value and was certified at not one but two grades higher. Yes it is possible the grading service is mistaken but one trusts the grading service more than a dealer one has never dealt with. This is where, who do you trust the most.... the dealer or the certification service?

I have seen here on eBay many items in US coinage being offered and have even made purchases. I must say I have been VERY disappointed on the item due the grading was not what I would agree to in the description. If the item was certified by PCGS or NGC (Numismatic Guaranty Corporation) I was not nearly as dissatisfied. Yes even some of these certified items I was not 100% satisfied due to eye appeal and/or grade.

Eye appeal is another subject and is solely up to the individual. Please see my points on certification services coming soon.

When you grade a coin it is wise to know about the production of the series, strong points, flaws, and what to look for in ware. This is where eye appeal sways one to purchase or pass. The coin could grade a fine but the eye appeal may make all the difference if it fits in your collection. I have seen some certified items sit for great lengths of time due to poor eye appeal. They may grade on the high end (MS67/PF69) but lacking eye appeal are not worth more than items with good eye appeal.

It is NEVER a bad investment to expands' ones knowledge in an area of interest. You invest in yourself and through this a greater value comes. If you have no interest in numismatics but have material you would like information on then you must seek out an individual you can trust their opinion. NEVER sell to the first person that gives an opinion but gather a few for comparison. Choose the one you feel the most comfortable with.

I pray this is helpful to you and guides you to more valuable information.

Thank you