How many times have you decided to start a new project, purchased all of your notions until you reach the sewing machine needles and then everything comes to a screeching halt?  There you stand in front of the machine needles a bead of sweat forming just above the brow as you contemplate which needle you are going to choose for your project.  What style do you Universal, Jeans/Denim, Sharps, Ball Point or Stretch?  And then there's the size; 60, 70, 80, 90 or 100?  Choosing the right needle for your project is just like an auto mechanic choosing the right tool for his job or as a surgeon choosing the right knife for his surgery; which one will achieve the best result.

Remembering these tips, regarding your machine needle when starting a new project.

• Always start a new project with a new needle.  Needles can become dull quickly depending upon fabric and can also develop small burrs.  Burrs can cause the thread to fray, thread breakage or skipped stitches.
• Keep in mind the type of fabric you are sewing.  Is it silk, cotton, jersey or wool?
• Keep in mind the type of thread you are going to use to construct your project.  Is the thread utilitarian or is it decorative?  Is the thread going to be utilitarian, but you want to achieve a decorative look?

With these things in mind you are ready for the challenge.  Bring on the machine needles!

Types of Needles

There are four basic types of machine needles: Sharps, Ballpoint, Jersey and Universal.  The choice of needle depends on the fibre content as well as fabric type.

Sharps are used to promote perfect stitches on woven fabrics.

Ballpoints are used to prevent laddering in knits.

Stretch needles eliminate skipped stitches on fabrics that have elastic qualities such as; lycra/spandex and swimsuit fabrics.

Universal needles, with their semi-ballpoint, can be used for the majority of fabrics and are the best choice when you are unsure of your choice.

From time to time you will use a specialty fabric or thread that requires a different type of needle.  This applies when a thread is at risk of breaking or shredding as it passes through the eye of a needle

Specialty needles include:

Jeans/Denim have very sharp points designed to cut through thick layers of woven fabric when durability is required.  Large eyes also help to accommodate thick, multiple-strand threads such as Jeans Stitch thread.

Quilting needles are designed for sewing fabric which is layered with wadding.  This needle has a tip which cleanly pierces both materials without drawing the batting to the surface through the needle hole.

Embroidery needles have enlarged eyes and deeper grooves designed to be accommodate decorative threads.

Leather needles have a knife-edge that actually cuts through the leather instead of piercing the leather.

 

Needle Sizes

Needles range in size from 60 - 120.  Stitch qulity begins when the needle size is matched with the weight and type of fabric being sewn.  Simply put, the smaller the number the finer the needle.

Fabrics such as voile, and batiste, should be sewn with a 60 or 70 needle, while heavyweight fabrics, such as denim, would be sewn with a 90 - 120.  A size 80 is a good choice for most general sewing projects.  This needle size works well with most fabrics and well help you achieve a quality stitch.

Hopefully the information above and the guide below will help reduce the stress of choosing the right needle for your project and aid in helping you achieve great results in completing your project.

Machine Needle Guide

Needle Type     Thread Type               Fabric

Universal

Size 60/9                80 weight thread                  very delicate fabric - voile, chiffon, organza, batiste

Size 70/10              60 weight thread                  delicate fabrics, sheers and lightweight synthetics

Size 80/12              All-purpose thread               cotton, rayon, shirtings and lightweight wool

Size 90/14              All-purpose thread               linen, drill and medium to heavyweight fabric

Size 100/16            Top-stitch & heavy duty       heavyweight fabric

Size 110/18            Top-stitch & heavy duty       very heavyweigtht fabric

Sharps

Size 70/10              60 weight thread                   delicates, voile, microfibre

Size 80/12              All-purpose thread                worsted wool and microfibre

Size 90/14              All-purpose thread                shirting weights

Ballpoint 

Size 70/10              Poly 50, cotton 60                 lightweight knits and tricot

Size 80/12              All-purpose thread                 interlock and light to medium weight knits

Size 90/14              All-purpose thread                 medium to heavyweight knits and double knit

Stretch

Size 75/11              All-purpose thread                 lightweight lycra and fabrics containing elastic fibres

Size 90/14              All-purpose thread                 heavier lycra and fabrics with elastic fibres

Jeans

Size 90/14              All-purpose & top-stitch        denim, drill, gabardine and tightly woven fabric

Size 100/16            All-purpose & top-stitch        canvas, duck, sailcloth, burlap and upholstery

Leather

Size 90/14              All-purpose & top-stitch        leather and vinyl - light to medium weight

Size 100/16            All-purpose & top-stitch        leather and vinyl - medium to heavyweight

Embroidery

Size 80/12              Decorative threads                 various fabrics - light to medium weight

Size 90/14              Decorative threads                 various fabrics - medium to heavyweight