A Basic Guide by Military-Memorabilia

  The Army (and Waffen-SS) Close Combat Clasps were among the most honored of German combat awards that could be earned during WWII, short of the Knight's Cross.  The bronze level clasp was awarded after 15 days of close combat.  The silver for 30 days, and the gold level clasp was only awarded after 50 days of close combat.  Given the repect bestowal of the gold clasp conferred on the awardee, Hitler reserved for himself the right to present it.  Therefore, every original Gold Combat Clasp that was awarded, was also handled, albeit briefly, by Adolf Hitler.

 These are some of the hallmarks of original Close Combat Clasps:
1) As the clasp was worn on the chest, all originals are slightly curved, to fit neatly to the chest.  Avoid perfectly flat clasps.
2) This award was so prestigious, the manufacturers did not allow it to suffer from the typical late-war quality deterioration that was allowed to occur with lower level badges.  Therefore, all details should be sharp and clear.  The points on the background rays should be crisp and sharp.  Beware of clasps with poor detail to any of the obverse features.
3) Originals all use a broad, flat pin.  Decline clasps with needle pins like the plague!  Remember, a needle pin can be removed by the unscrupulous to decieve you.
4) The backplate is an excellent indicator of originality.  Originals have a small blackened plate behind the center of the clasp that are secured by peens, and are level with the reverse of the rest of the clasp.
  a) Avoid clasps that have the backplate as a common component of the clasp.
  b) Beware clasps where the backplate is not attached by peening.
  c) Also avoid clasps that have a backplate that is NOT level with the surface of the reverse of the clasp..
  d) The blackplate should NOT be the same color as the clasp - is should be black!
  e) The backplate should fit perfectly into its recess.  While after 60+ years, time may have caused some 'play' to develop in the backplate, it should not be the sloppiness of an obviously too-small backplate in its intended recess..
5) If the backplate is missing, the peening strikes should still be visible on the reverse of the badge, and the recess should be perfectly square.  Avoid badges that do not have a perfectly square recess for the backplate, or do not display peening marks.  Remember, like a needle pin, the unscrupulous can remove an ill-fitting backplate to hide the 'sloppy-fit', 'same-color', or 'unlevel' backplate flags.  For this reason, I do not recommend the purchase of a clasp where both the pin and the backplate are missing - unless you know your source - for obvious reasons!
6) Originals should have a manufacture's logo on the reverse.  Eye unmarked badges with extream suspicion, and proceed very carefully!  The few manufacturers authorized to produce this award were very proud of the honor - they WANTED their name to be associated with this medal!  While Peekhaus is the most common, other logos can be found.  Absolutely avoid all clasps marked with a RZM logo or code.  This is NOT a political badge, it is a military award, and as such it is totally outside of RZM purview.

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