The bracelets of the Navajo, Zuni and Hopi people of the American Southwest are quite possibly the most popular form of Native American jewelry.  While the high quality turquoise and other semi-precious stones, heavy-gauge silver and creative designs have made the bracelets of each of these three tribes world famous and highly desirable, the work of each tribe displays a distinct style expressing each tribe's ideal of beauty.

Navajo Techniques

The Navajos, noted for the extensive use of turquoise, learned the art of silversmithing from the Mexicans in the mid-1800's, and later passed the craft on to the Zuni in the 1870's.  Early Navajo bracelets took very simple forms with plain ridged cuffs or cuffs of twisted wire.

Designs were imprinted onto the silver with metal punches. The Navajos began to set turquoise in silver in 1880, and by the 1920's and 1930's, encouraged by traders and tourists, were using turquoise extensively.  Relationships with traders during this period also led to other techniques, such as applique, where thin pieces of designed silver are soldered (applied) to the base silver.

Another technique is sandcasting, or tufa casting.  In sand or tufa casting a design is carved into a piece of sandstone or tufa.  A second piece is left uncarved and tied tightly to the first piece.  Melted silver is then poured into the mold.  When cooled, the silver piece is filed and polished.  All of these techniques continue to be used today.

Zuni Bracelets

Zunis are known for their beautiful inlay work, which exhibits detailed attention to the setting of stones or shells on silver.  Channer and mosaic inlay bracelets incorporate many stones assembled to form an intricate design.

Other characteristic Zuni styles are petit point, the use of numerous pearl shaped or oval stones in one piece, and needlepoint, the use of numerous small, navette shaped stones.

Hopi Overlay Bracelets

The Hopi, who began silversmithing in the 1890's, abandoned the use of stones or shells, and use overlay and cutwork techniques based primarily on tribal pottery designs.  In overlay work the bracelet is made in layers.  A design is cut out on a piece of silver and then soldered onto a thinner plate of silver, forming a design which is usually darkened and sometimes textured.

In recent years, there has been some crossover in styles.  For example, Tommy Singer, a Navajo, pioneered the use of chip inlay, and now specializes in overlay work.

Other artists are experimenting with gold applied on silver and newer bracelet styles.  Navajo and Zuni artists both produce clusterwork- well-matched stones or shells arranged into flower-like patterns known as clusters.

Choosing One For You

With a wonderful variety of silver designs and stones of all shades, colors and textures, how do you find the right bracelet?  Bracelet designs and materials often hold special meanings to both the maker and the wearer.  When choosing a Native American bracelet, find one that "speaks to you".  Turquoise, for example, occurs in may different colors and with matrix in many different colors and forms, or no matrix at all.  Matrix is the extraneous or foreign minerals such as the copper, calcium, iron and silica incorporated in the turquoise.  It is matrix that makes the turquoise from the Southwester United States unique.  Do you prefer spider web matrix, tan matrix or no matrix at all?  Blue or green turquoise?  A smooth surfaced, polished stone, or an irregular, pitted stone?

Once you have decided on the style, check the inside measurement and the size of the gap for your wrist.  Some Native American bracelets can be sized by squeezing the ends together or separating them gently.  Some are not very flexible, and bracelets with inlay should not be bent at all.  Some bracelets are large and may overpower a small wrist.  Some are more masculine, some more feminine, but many are suitable for either men or women.  Finally, only buy pieces made by authentic Native American artists.

Whatever the style, Native American bracelets go beyond mere ornamentation.  For both men and women, they provide an affordable and strong connection with artists drawing on a rich artistic tradition.

See Our Bracelet Selection

The Lodestar Group