Here you can find film/developer combination which I am using and which are my favorite. I do not change very often only when I am forced y facts. That happen when Fuji Neopan was stopped produced in bulk packaging or when Kodak 125PX is just not reachable for me.
Important is to realize that these are not universal recipes. It is what I like and what works for me. I do use demineralizate water for developer and Paterson tanks fro three 35mm rolls. Fixer and Clean liquid you can use whatever your local market offers.
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Following description is for bright sunny day. Results from my experiments will be still updating these notes, but for now, this is a formula how to get great tonality from Fuji Across.
Developing procedure
Fuji Across 100@50 ASA in Aculux 2 1:9 @20C 9:00min
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Last update: I use Fomapan 200 from Jun 2006 instead of hard to find Kodak 125PX.
When I did develop first time Kodak 125PX in Aculux 2 I couldn't believe my eyes. Such a beautiful tone scale and smooth transition, nice contrast. I just love it! Grain is little bit bigger than one would expect for 100ASA film but it is not intruding one view on print. It just add on the atmosphere of the print.
Developing procedure
Kodak 125PX 125@125 in Aculux 2 1:9 @20C 7:00min
What I especially like on this film is that highlight are perfectly controlled. You can shoot with bright sky at the back and you 100% sure it will not blow up.
The result amazed me. The image look was very much like Kodak 125PX, so the way I like it and the grain is much much smaller, actually on prints up to A4 not visible at all. I did try two developers with it. My favorite Paterson Aculux2, which I immediately get acceptable results and I did not investigate further mainly because I did also try Fotospeed FD10 as possible replacement for Aculux2. In this case I did a much more test and developed in different ways. The results are excellent. I made couple of prints and of course I will try to improve even more and will provide more example shots for different kind of scene contrasts.
Developing procedure:
Fomapan 200 creative 200@100 in Fotospeed FD10 1:9 @20C 9:00min
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This is my best 400 films from all I have tried. For a long time I was using Kodak TMY with xtol 1:1, but after 3years I have switch to this combination and I am happy. As I am using it over three years now I know how to control it and develop it based on contrast of the photographed scene.
Developing procedure
Fuji Neopan 400@400 in Aculux 2 1:9 55ml+495ml=550ml @20C 12:00min
Developing procedure
Fomapan 400@400 in Aculux 2 1:9 @20C 12:00min
Important is to realize that these are not universal recipes. It is what I like and what works for me. I do use demineralizate water for developer and Paterson tanks fro three 35mm rolls. Fixer and Clean liquid you can use whatever your local market offers.
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Low sensitivity film - 50ASA
Fuji Across 100 in Paterson Aculux 2
I was fighting with Fuji Acros in different developers and at the end I manage to get great tones with my favorite Paterson Aculux 2 only trick was to expose it at 50ASA. At I have got alternative to Kodak 125PX but with much smaller grain.Following description is for bright sunny day. Results from my experiments will be still updating these notes, but for now, this is a formula how to get great tonality from Fuji Across.
Developing procedure
Fuji Across 100@50 ASA in Aculux 2 1:9 @20C 9:00min
- dev : first minute 15sec nonstop inversions rest of time each minute 1 inversion
- stop : water 1x30sec
- fix : 5x60sec Amaloco X89 1:4
- clean: 3x60sec Amaloco H-8 1:7
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Normal sensitivity film - 100ASA
Kodak 125PX in Paterson Aculux 2
I have tried different normal sensitive (100ASA) films. I did try Fuji Across 100, Kodak TMX, Ilford Delta 100, FP4+, Maco 100up and maybe some others.Last update: I use Fomapan 200 from Jun 2006 instead of hard to find Kodak 125PX.
When I did develop first time Kodak 125PX in Aculux 2 I couldn't believe my eyes. Such a beautiful tone scale and smooth transition, nice contrast. I just love it! Grain is little bit bigger than one would expect for 100ASA film but it is not intruding one view on print. It just add on the atmosphere of the print.
Developing procedure
Kodak 125PX 125@125 in Aculux 2 1:9 @20C 7:00min
- dev:first minute 15sec nonstop inversions rest of time each minute 2 inversions
- stop: water 1x30sec
- fix: 5x60sec Amaloco X89 1:4
- clean: 3x60sec Amaloco H-8 1:7
What I especially like on this film is that highlight are perfectly controlled. You can shoot with bright sky at the back and you 100% sure it will not blow up.
Fomapan 200 Creative @100 in Fotospeed FD10 and Aculux II
I decide I am going to exposed Fomapan 200 on 100 ASA only to get better quality. And matter of fact I was looking for 100ASA film anyway.The result amazed me. The image look was very much like Kodak 125PX, so the way I like it and the grain is much much smaller, actually on prints up to A4 not visible at all. I did try two developers with it. My favorite Paterson Aculux2, which I immediately get acceptable results and I did not investigate further mainly because I did also try Fotospeed FD10 as possible replacement for Aculux2. In this case I did a much more test and developed in different ways. The results are excellent. I made couple of prints and of course I will try to improve even more and will provide more example shots for different kind of scene contrasts.
Developing procedure:
Fomapan 200 creative 200@100 in Fotospeed FD10 1:9 @20C 9:00min
- dev: first minute 15sec nonstop inversions rest of time each minute 2 inversions
- stop: 1x30sec Amaloco S10 stop bath + water 1x30sec
- fix: 5x60sec Amaloco X89 1:4
- clean: 3x60sec Amaloco H-8 1:7 than 5min water circulation
- dev : first minute 15sec nonstop inversions rest of time each minute 2-3 inversions
- stop : 1x30sec Amaloco S10 stop bath + water 1x30sec
- fix : 5x60sec Amaloco X89 1:4
- clean: 3x60sec Amaloco H-8 1:7 than 5min water circulation
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High sensitivity film - 400ASA
Fuji Neopan 400 in Paterson Aculux 2
This is my best 400 films from all I have tried. For a long time I was using Kodak TMY with xtol 1:1, but after 3years I have switch to this combination and I am happy. As I am using it over three years now I know how to control it and develop it based on contrast of the photographed scene.
Developing procedure
Fuji Neopan 400@400 in Aculux 2 1:9 55ml+495ml=550ml @20C 12:00min
- dev: first minute 15sec nonstop inversions rest of the time each minute one inversion
- stop: water 1x30sec
- fix: 5x60sec Amaloco X89 1:4
- clean: 3x60sec Amaloco H-8 1:7
Fomapan 400 in Paterson Aculux 2
This is my current replacement for Fuji 400. I am still not very convinced that this is it, but some results are promising some are not. Currently this is only for your information, until I find something better either film or development procedure.Developing procedure
Fomapan 400@400 in Aculux 2 1:9 @20C 12:00min
- dev: first minute 15sec nonstop inversions rest of the time each minute 1 to 2 inversion
- stop: 1x30sec Amaloco S10 stop bath + water 1x30sec
- fix: 5x60sec Amaloco X89 1:4
- clean: 3x60sec Amaloco H-8 1:7 than 5min water circulation
Guide created: 02/14/07 (updated 06/30/09)

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