Chosing a motorcycle engine oil (4 stroke) for the new owner or the experienced rider

First of all, since we are limited to providing links outside of ebay I'm going to suggest some keywords for you to use to verify what I have to say in this review in regards to using or finding the best motor oil for your motorcycle.

I have a list of Amsoil, Mutol, Mobil 1, Red Line, Castrol, Delvac Synthetic, and Shell Rotella T Synthetic. Purple stuff doesn't rate in my book because I've seen some disturbing indications that I do not like in certian studies, I know people swear by certain stuff but maybe they shouldn't? The ones I mentioned just happen to be among the most popular for the masses and it's not just limited to those, so yes, I may have left out someones favorite.

If you do a search you will find the brands I mentioned above to all be popular and highly rated choices in the serious cycle engine oil crowd of today. Many brands associated with the same name of a manufacture are basically unknown oils refined and processed by an oil refinery and not the manufacture, are over priced, and quite frankly nothing I would use.

I suggest using some keyword searches like "best motorcycle motor oil" or "Amsoil vs. Mobil-1" . Sooner or later you are going to get some links that will take you to some very in-depth and serious reports on these oils. Beware, be very suspicious of sites or links that take you to certain sites that are heavily sponsored by a manufacture and try to point yourself  towards independent research that isn't sponsored. Amsoil seems to top that description, it doesn't mean anything is wrong or it's overly-rated or falsely propped up...it does make it suspicious and if you are like me? It doesn't take much to cast a shadow of doubt when that happens. It would be like me saying I'm the best motor oil reviewer there is and I can prove this with my very own study and then providing you with outside references where you can buy a product that I profit from or even suggesting such. I'm disabled and I don't work, I certainly do not own any stock...and no one works or profits from what I have to say here that is a member, close friend, or otherwise...including me.  

1 - What I suggest anyone does first? Learn the API or JASO termonology, the  standards and terms of everything that these numbers and codes mean - to get an idea of what the basics are behind motor oil in general. Wikipedia offers a sort of condensed review (very complex systems involved when you are dealing with engineers and scientist who develop, test, and rate anything) under 'Motor Oil'.

2 - Absolutely refer to your owners manual or if you don't know, search for it on-line to get what your manufacture recommends for your specific motorcycle and stay within those ratings.

I have seen many of these synthetics today costing up to 12 dollars a quart and my guide is a deliberate attempt to refer you to a synthetic oil product that cost a little more then 12 dollars - except you get an entire gallon instead of a quart and for no other reason then because I have the time to offer my opinion after the research and experience I put into this.

Please realize that there are different types of synthetic oils on the market today, they are classified in groups. Group classification can designate the base stock used to create the final product you pour into your machine. Group III's are petroleum based stocks modified, further refined, filtered, hydro-cracked, etc... to create a full synthetic that meets the Group III standard. This is not a blend of synthetic and petro-based oil like some brands offer at a cheaper cost. The base stock is highly modified to a new chemical composition, further refining the oil, additives are further mixed and it's quite complex but it is no blend of a syn mixed with dino oil. Group IV and beyond use mineral and other types of non-petro-based stocks to create - ever see polyol esters and other exotic formulas listed on the labels? Technically Group III's are not fully synthetic based on no-petroleum oil principle, yet they are classified as such...confusing to us? It is...highly modified petroleum or as many say, dino stock based highly refined with additives made into a new composition considered synthetic by standards.

Here's what almost everyone says to avoid...FRICTION MODIFIERS, ENERGY SAVING TYPES... while there are arguments and signs that point towards these additives that are usually well marked on the containers, there is no definitive proof that they cause trouble. Hearsay. They claim to cause clutch slippage in wet-clutch systems, pretty much that's every metric bike. Molybedum is usually added as the friction/Energy saving additive in these types.  

There's a certain segment out there that claims synthetic oil by itself is no good at all simply because of  a wet-clutch system is in use. I relate this to selective hearing and/or possibly reading if not the "telephone" system of passing information down the line. If someone says "Never, ever, ever put synthetic oil in a metric bike or wet-clutch application" ?  Don't argue, just nod and say.."you're absolutely right" then walk away and forget about it because it's not worth it. It's almost valid to a point anyway, changing your oil more frequently using the regular dino based motor oil that manufactures provide in this day and age makes a strong case to it anyway. What has no validity at all is saying "synthetics are worse, bad, or less good".

Please look around, do some searching on this topic. Many forums out there discuss this topic frequently and the users post many links to some of these very fine reports and studies, that are easily found.

I use Shell Rotella-T  5-40W Synthetic. My manufacture recommends 10-4OW so I am within the standards and when you consider that the extra sticking of the oil to engine parts that a synthetic provides, the extra little thiness of the 5 over the 10, is more then equaled out on any normal warm day. However I feel cold days and starting on cold days may give my 5-40W a slight advantage. It only takes slight seconds for the difference between a 5W and a 10W to be realized because oil heats up quickly and thus the viscosity changes just as quick.

I was an over-the-road fleet owner for several years. I was in the time sensitive, critical delivery, or expedited portion. The service I performed required extreme care and maintainance. I relied on Rotella for several reasons and it paid off heavily for me. It was designed as a fleet style motor oil, it's rated for diesel engines, it has extra detergents, a higher phosporous and zinc content, a shear rating that is critical for motorcycle engines. The higher shear rating is a more important factor for the one part that a number of metric bikes share. A single oil resevoir that lubes the engine, transmission, and wet-clutch. This means that the effects of a clutch and transmission will have less chance of breaking down the oil and/or it's viscosity while providing you longer protection and better protection with longer oil change intervals. The extra chemicals provide better results that reduce wear and make your engine and tranny last longer. The fleet rating means better process/quality controls and standards, it's a base to have better control over the effects of this type of oil in a more contolled enviroment...having and using fleet statistics to study the results...and not to mention the CI-4 extreme standards.

There are some fine motor oils out there but there is nothing that can prove they actually are better, this is a fact and if someone suggest there is proof or some product states other? I'll bet you a beer, that study was performed and sponsored by that manufacture. Mobil Delvac and Shell Rotella-T have something going for them that not too many others have, meeting fleet requirements and standards while having the proven statistics of the fleet studies to support far more on a grander scale.

At about 16 a gallon (5-40W Synthetic -Blue Jug)...it's a no brainer with me because 10,11,12 dollar a quart oils just can't provide accurate or even substantial enough facts to make theirs that much better or even prove it with the objectve facts and non-biased clear-cut support.

A fleet oil designed for heavy duty extreme use, an oil designed for the diesel engine, not a specific application for diesel engines only either as some people claim or may think. (I blame that thinking on more selective reading and assumption) If you have your own doubts in this regard? Try the Shell website, they acknowledge the popularity and have posted to it's use. Mobil on the other hand, when asked about Delvac or other forms of Mobil-1, suggest using their V-Twin or Motorcycle specific formulas and apply their reasoning.

Here's another good reason; manufactures that have motorcycle specific formulas often have much higher prices attached on these specific fomulated oils. Now that doesn't mean these are inferior, superior, or just a sales gimmick to get higher revenues. They do have a higher cost attached and there is no real acceptable proof or studies available to prove these "theory" based specific oils are better or will work better. Shell just keeps producing Rotella-T and acknowledges its use in motorcyles without steering you in another direction towards a higher priced specific formula, and that speaks volumes in my book because the potential to produce or steer you towards another product is very real. Is this simple honesty in todays ruthless corporate world? Time will tell, but I find it priceless honesty for now.  

The bottom line is this, there are several several several good and excellent engine oils and opinions abound while proof is fleeting. If it makes you feel better to use 12 dollar a quart X oil, then use it and make sure it's within your manufactures required specs for your specific bike. Change that oil, change that filter. If you are looking for an oil that has some solid reasons to support the fact that is an excellent motor oil, fleet studies, comparisons, and leader in the petroleum industry, along with some absent steering towards marvelous specific oils and not to mention outside popularity and recommendations...all for a reasonable price? Look no further then Rotella-T Synthetic at your local huge corporate retail leader establishment. The writting is on the wall at this mart.

If Redline, Amsoil, Mobil-1 make you feel secure, if Harley oil gives you less stress by all means buy them. There's an equal alternative in performance, quality, and ability that's cheaper.

One thing I'd like to suggest to anyone is never believe these oil change jockeys at one of those quick lube centers. I could tell you a hundred stories and have a hundred left. They are not experts, in fact if you read this guide...you are now 99.9% ahead of their collective staffs combined in oil knowledge. I don't have anything against these places or the employees, but I hear too many claims and some of the most ridiculous statements in regards to oil, what's best, what's not, why this and why that...they frighten me that the general public looks up and listens to these people as some sort of experts or masters in the field simply because they change oil for a living. Second on my list is a dealer who stocks high priced oils, just where his higher profit margin lies in selling a high priced oil or even an inferior oil that leads to more repairs is hugely suspect in my mind in regards to motive for telling anyone anything. Trust people who made an effort with no apparent motive, do a search and you will discover some very interesting facts way beyond what I have mentioned here.

*One of my favorites is outdoor temp ratings placed on multi-grade oils. I was told by a manager of a quick lube center that the temp outside had absolutely nothing to do with oil unless I was planning to go to Alaska this winter. He said engines run at constant temps controlled by their own cooling systems and outside temps had no affect. "You see" he said, "the temp outside can't change your water temp inside the engine, only a faulty part, a dirty radiator, or bad/worn out coolant can do that". While outside temps really apply to aircooled motorcycles, they do apply to water cooled engines and the factors are many. What struck me was how serious and self-convinced he was over his statement. Virtually every manufacture of motors and oils have charts that provide graph ranges of where certain multi-grade oils perfom best in comparison with outside temps. This was a leader and a trainer, this was a man who gained the publics confidence and trust. Just one of a few hundred stories, just another reason why I bring my oil with me for them to change for me. "You know sir, this oil is for diesel engines only don't you?"