This guide for the first-time user of metal polish is intended to assist those who are uncertain about how, when or where to use a metal polish.  Experienced metal polish users may also find this guide useful.  

Because we specialize only in Simichrome, the world's finest metal polish, this guide applies specifically to Simichrome, and generally to all bands, some of which are adequate, and some of which are not recommended at all.

We refer to Simichrome as "multi-talented" multi-purpose metal polish because the surfaces it polishes are not limited to metal.

Indeed, Simichrome has a talent unique in all of the world of metal polishes: it is the only metal polish which can be used to test for the genuineness of Bakelite, an early 20th century plastic which was used in the manufacture of many decorative and jewelry items and articles of personal adornment.  Bakelite is now highly collectible and, like anything of monetary value, it has been extensively faked.  Therefore collectors of Bakelite use Simichrome to determine if their plastic item is Bakelike or some other form of plastic.

To test for Bakelite, one simply uses a cotton swab to rub a tiny amount of Simichrome on a suspected Bakelite item.  If the pink Simichrome creme turns yellow, the article is Bakelite.  No other metal polish can be used to test Bakelite.

But Simichrome is "multi-talented" in other respects also.  This guide will show you some of the ways and tell you exactly how to polish your metal.

What is metal polish and how does it work?

Metal polish works primarily by chemical action and only secondarily by abrasion or rubbing.  All metal polishes are composed of man-made chemical compounds therefore until or unless scientists discover the "metal polish tree" in some remote tropical rain forest, there is no such thing as a "natural" or "organic" metal polish.

Metal polish is generally composed of some combination of aluminum oxide, ammonium oleate, a petroleum distillate known as "white spirit" (generally without turpentine) diethanolamide (a vegetable based fatty acid oil derived from coconut), other compounds in varying proportions, along with microscopic inert polishing particles.

Each metal polish manufacturer has its own unique proprietary formulation.  Contrary to what you may have heard, most high-end metal polishes have no objectionable odor, and in fact have a fresh, clean smell.  Interestingly, ALL high-end polishes are made in Germany.

When metal polish is applied to bare, uncoated metal the chemicals act to remove tarnish, discoloration, corrosion and oxidation.  Rubbing and buffing augment the chemical action.

Caution: Please note that "metal" means solid metal, not plated metal.  No metal polish should be used on plated metals.

If your item is solid brass, copper, stainless steel, solid silver (not silver plate), gold, platinum, aluminum, bronze, etc. it can be polished with metal polish.

Cheap silver plated items or cheap jewelry items cannot be polished with metal polish.  For those items you must use polish or cleaners specially formulated for that type of ware.

Caution: Please note that no metal polish should be used on brushed stainless steel appliances.

There is an unfortunate trend for refrigerators, dishwashers and other kitchen appliances to have fronts made of brushed stainless steel.  Indeed, most higher end appliance makers such as SubZero, Bosch, and Dacor utilize brushed stainless steel.

Brushed stainless steel conspicuously shows and retains fingerprints, smudges and defects worse than any other surface.  It is for aesthetical reasons very unsuitable for use on kitchen appliances.  The deeper the grain of the brushing, the more difficult the surface is to clean.

Do not use any metal polish product on brushed stainless steel appliances.  You should instead use only a stainless steel cleaner specifically designed for brushed stainless or simply use a solution of liquid dish detergent and water, along with a de-greaser such as Formula 409.

Manufacturers and interior designers continue to impose these products on a fashion conscious public eager to buy something trendy.  Today's brushed stainless steel appliances are tomorrow's shag carpet.

And now to the polishing process...

Step One: Before you begin to polish, prepare the surface to be polished.

Do not attempt to polish a dirty surface.  Dirt cannot be polished.  If you do not clean your surface dirt particles may be ground into the surface as you polish, resulting in "swirls."  Swirls will be especially noticeable on shiny metal.

"Normal" dirt can be removed with soap and water, while greasy areas may require a product such as Formula 409 or even a cleaner such as acetone (the primary ingredient in most fingernail polish removers).

If you are planning to polish brass please be aware that most brass items are coated with lacquer, therefore you must thoroughly remove the lacquer before you can polish the brass metal underneath.  To remove lacquer from brass, rub the article with a cloth moistened with acetone.  When all of the lacquer is dissolved by the acetone, you are ready to polish the brass.  If any lacquer residue remains, you will later notice areas where the metal polish did not reach the brass.  Do not worry.  You can simply repeat the cleaning process with more acetone and then apply more metal polish to areas that need touch-up.

Note that acetone is extremely flammable and volatile!  Do not use it near a flame or hot surface.  A fire or explosion can occur.  Use only with good ventilation.  You may wish to use vinyl or rubber gloves in this cleaning process, however acetone does not harm the skin.  Indeed, acetone is used by dermatologists to clean the skin prior to acid peels and other procedures.  You should however avoid prolonged exposure of acetone to the skin or respiratory system.  Its fumes can be a bit overpowering.

In general, metal polish should only be used on metals that are uncoated, i.e., bare metal with no paint or lacquer.  One exception is painted aircraft surfaces and some automotive paint, which can be polished with Simichrome, however before doing so you should test a small area first to make sure the final result will be satisfactory.

As a novice metal polisher you probably should not attempt to apply metal polish to a painted surface, except with extreme caution.

Step Two: Applying the metal polish.

A small amount of metal polish goes a long way!  Use sparingly!

To polish metal you will wish to wear vinyl, cotton, nitrile, or rubber gloves to protect your skin.  Metal polishing is a dirty process and very time and labor intensive, but the end result can be both stunning and satisfying!

Most metal polishes are mild skin irritants and all are eye irritants to some degree.  Do not touch your eyes or face, eat, smoke or drink when using metal polish.

Apply a small, pea-sized amount of metal polish on a clean dry lint-free cloth (an old t-shirt or a micro fiber cloth is perfect) and rub the polish onto the surface of the item, allowing the chemicals to do their work.  Continue to rub in order to loosen and dissolve the tarnish or discoloration.  As your cloth becomes soiled with black tarnish residue, you can add a bit more polish and continue rubbing until all tarnish is removed. 

Note that your cloth with have a shiny, metallic residue.  Switch to a clean portion of the cloth as it becomes soiled.

Remember to use only a very small amount of polish each time, applying only as much as needed to apply a very thin coat to the surface.

Step Three: Buffing off the polish.

Once the item has been thoroughly polished you must immediately buff off all of the polish with another clean, dry soft cloth.  Buff vigorously by hand to a high luster.  If spots of discoloration or tarnish remain, repeat the polishing process.  Do not allow the polish to dry on the surface!

For very difficult tarnish use of an electric buffing wheel or Dremel type hand buffer may be required.  Most households do not have access to a buffing wheel or a Dremel tool.  Unless you are going to do some very extensive polishing projects or are an experienced hobbyist or metalworker, you will have no need for a machine buffer.

If you do elect to use a buffing wheel, remember to wear eye protection, as metal polishes are eye irritants.  Indeed, you should always wear eye protection when using any kind of buffing or grinding equipment.

Step Four: The final result!

When you are satisfied that you have achieved the best possible result make sure all the polish has been buffed off.  It is not necessary to wash an item after it has been polished.  Most metal polishes contain an ingredient that acts as a tarnish barrier, therefore you may not wish to wash the item.  The tarnish retardant will usually survive multiple washings but it you want maximum tarnish protection, do not wash the article.

Yes it is quite safe to polish and buff eating utensils such as sterling silver or stainless steel flatware or pots and pans.

If you wish to extend the tarnish protection, you can buy a metal protector which can be used after polishing with any metal polish.  Metal protectors may be used on stainless steel sinks that are subject to stains.  Metal protectors are essentially nothing more than mineral oil.  We find them to be of little use and a waste of money.

For advanced users: Not for the faint of heart!

Most metal polishing projects require only metal polish, time, patience, and elbow grease, however some difficult projects may need drastic measures.  Do not undertake these measures unless you are confident in your skills or are a professional user!

Sometimes the extent of corrosion will be so severe that metal polish and buffing alone will not suffice.  You may wish to consider using a very fine abrasive paper with a fineness of #1,500 or greater.  Cut a tiny 1.5 by 1.5 inch piece of paper and gently rub the corrosion with the paper using your fingertips, never a machine buffer.

Stop immediately if you see that you are not getting the desired result!

Simichrome: the "multi-talented" metal polish!

Earlier we said that Simichrome can be used for surfaces other than metal.  That is an understatement!

Its uses are almost endless.  Here are just a few of the many surfaces that can be polished by Simichrome:

Granite

Marble

Corian

Ceramic Tile

Formica

Plastic

Plexiglass

Glass

Vinyl

Bakelite

Fiberglass

Porcelain & more...