The reason why designer handbags and footwear are so attractive and appealing is because of their extreme strength and durability over time.  The only real down side is that your item is likely to outlive you.  There are different quality/grades of leather and a variety of ways to tan skins, which overall play a part in determining the life of your goods.  Regardless of what type of leather  you own, regular cleaning and conditioning is necessary to preserve the integrity of the item.   

The most damaging elements are exposure to dust, dirt, and oil.  And by oil, I’m not referring to motor oil but rather the natural oil secreted from our skin.  The leather absorbs the oil and grime from our constant handling and it begins to break down the hide with time.  But there is no need to obsessive compulsive about it and start wearing latex gloves to carry your bag.

As most people view purchasing a high quality item as a long-term investment, it is important that you know the basics about caring for leather to keep it looking at it’s best for many years to come.  It’s very simple...just remember the 3 C’s:  Cleaning, Conditioning, and Covering.  There is nothing worse than seeing a neglected handbag with its deep wrinkles, hard brittle feel, and dry cracking surface.  Just as the skin on the human body needs moisture to remain soft and pliable so does leather, which is nothing more than the skin of an animal.   

Start by Cleaning your leather with a solution that has a neutral Ph.  I personally use both Coach Care Products and Lexol Cleaner and have had great results.  Suede is the exception and extra care must be taken when cleaning them.  Usually suede is cleaned with a special eraser and a brush.  But for items that require a more aggressive cleaning, you can use a liquid or spray on cleaner made specifically for cleaning suede and nubuck items.  Suede and nubuck is not as forgiving, so sometimes it is best to bring it to a professional for cleaning and removal of stubborn stains.  But those of you who feel compelled by a challenge, make sure to uniformly apply cleaner to the entire item.  Then, reapply and concentrate on any problem areas.  Afterwards let it air dry completely.  You’ll notice once it dries that the suede may feel stiff and hard.  To restore the naturally soft texture of the skin you’ll need to brush the nap. 

 After the cleaning is finished, take a damp cloth to remove the excess cleaner.  Now comes the most difficult part of the entire process so listen carefully...leave the bag alone!  I usually take some tissue paper and stuff the bag so it retains it shape while air-drying.  Never use a blow dryer or place your leather in direct sunlight outside to dry.  Because if you do, you may find yourself donating your beloved designer handbag to Barbie’s Wardrobe.  Well perhaps I am exaggerating a bit but regardless just sit tight and be patient.  Before the leather dries completely, you’ll want to apply one coat of leather conditioner while the item is still damp.  Once it is completely dry, apply a second coat of leather conditioner to restore any moisture lost from cleaning.

Finally, the last step in preserving fine leather is making sure you cover it when not in use.  Dust may appear to be invisible to the naked eye but trust me, its all around us.  When dust settles on leather it acts like sandpaper, gradually scratching the surface causing the skin to deteriorate & break down.  Many items come with a dust bag or sleeper bag for storage but a 100% cotton pillowcase works just as good.  Never store it in a plastic bag, as it is the equivalent of suffocation.  Be sure to use a cover made of an all cotton bend because leather needs to breathe.  I like to buy the extra long body pillowcases, which zip shut.    

 So prevention is the key to maintaining any leather good.  Leather was once the skin on an animal.  Skin is a living organ and the largest organ in the human body.  When we die, our bodies are preserved through embalming.  When an animal dies their skin is preserved through a process know as tanning.  Tanning is the process of making leather from skin. This is commonly done with the acidic compound tannin, which prevents normal decomposition and often imparts color.  The process of dressing up animal skin/hide into leather consists of three stages. The first stage is the preparation for tanning. The second stage is the actual tanning and other chemical treatment. The third stage applies finishing to the surface. 

Preparing hides begins by curing them with salt. In wet salting, the hides are heavily salted then pressed into packs for about 30 days. In brine curing the hides are agitated in a salt-water bath for about 16 hours. The hides are then soaked in clean water to remove the salt and a lime/water solution to loosen the hair. The majority of hair is then removed using a machine with remaining hair being removed by hand using a dull knife, a process known as scudding. Depending on the end use of the leather, hides may be treated with enzymes to soften them.

Tanning can be performed with either vegetable or mineral methods.  Vegetable tanning uses tannin, from which tanning gets it name. Tannin occurs naturally in bark. The primary bark used in modern times is chestnut, oak, tanoak, hemlock, quebracho, mangrove, wattle, and myrobalan. Hides are stretched on frames and immersed for several weeks in vats of increasing concentrations of tannin. Vegetable tanned hide is flexible and is used for luggage and furniture. 

Mineral tanning uses chrome.  In the raw state chrome, tanned skins are blue and therefore referred to as “wet blue”. Chrome tanning is faster (less than a day for this part of the process) than vegetable tanning and produces a stretchable leather excellent for handbags and garments.  Depending on the finish desired, the hide may be waxed, rolled, lubricated, injected with oil, split, shaved, and of course dyed. Suede and Nubuck are finished by raising the nap of the leather by rolling with a rough surface.

 In general, leather is sold in three forms:  Full-Grain leather, made from the finest raw material, is clean natural hides, which have not been sanded to remove imperfections. Only the hair has been removed. The grain remains in its natural state, which will allow the best fiber strength, resulting in greater durability. The natural grain can breathe naturally, resulting in greater comfort. The natural Full-Grain surface will wear better than other leather. Rather than wearing out, it will develop a natural patina and grow more beautiful each passing year. The finest leather handbags are made from Full Grain leather, such as those crafted by Designer Marino Orlandi.

 Corrected-Grain Leather. Corrected Leather is fuzzy on one side and smooth on the other. The smooth side is the side where the hair and natural grain used to be. The hides, which are made from inferior quality raw materials, have all of the natural grain sanded off, and an artificial grain applied. Top grain leather generally must be heavily painted to cover up the sanding and stamping process.

 Suede is the interior split of the hide. It is fuzzy on both sides. Suede is less durable than top-grain. Suede is cheaper because many pieces of suede can be split from a single thickness of hide, whereas only one piece of top-grain can be made. However, as the look of full-grain is in demand, manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make suede appear to be full-grain. For example, in one process, glue is mixed with one side of the suede, which is then pressed through rollers; these flatten and even out one side of the material, giving it the smooth appearance of full-grain.  

Hopefully my guide on leather has provided some knowledge, which will help guide you when making your next designer handbag purchase.  Just remember to pamper and treat your leather as you would your own skin.   And while imperfections and wrinkles to our skin can be corrected with a magical quick fix such as Botox, leather damage is permanent and irreversible.  If leather is properly cared for over the years, you will be rewarded with a loyal life long friend.