LED lighting is making a huge leap, both in technology and brightness.  If you are interested, you probably already know that LEDs are cooler, last a LOT longer, and use MUCH less power.  But you might be surprised with a few other things...

Right now, many cities are installing LED traffic lights.

Right now, many automotive manufacturers are adding LED taillights.

Right now, There is probably at least one led light within 3 feet of you.  Go ahead and take a look... I will wait.

If you still cannot find it, take a look at your computer.  The power light is an LED.  So is the one on the monitor if you are at a desktop.

The power of LEDs has long been recognized, but until recently, the costs and brightness were a limiting factor.  Recently, technology has enabled us to have LED lights with single diodes using 1 Watt!  That is a lot of light!

LED stands for light emitting diode.  It is a cooler technology but it is not always as cool as you might think.  The easy explanation is to figure they work like a neon light... electricity goes in the sealed environment inside the diode, light comes out.  And because the device is electric, you can control the ability to turn it on and off fairly quickly, and as technology advances, so will the speed of the devices.  And dont forget, because a diode is a computer component, then a light emitting diode SHOULD follow the same general law of computer power.... which says they should double in brightness, ability to do more, and or efficiency, and lower in cost over time...

What does all this mean to you?

That flourescent bulb in your house may soon be replaced by a LED bulb.

That lightbulb in your car ceiling may soon be a LED....

and that train comin down the tracks could, possibly be using a very very bright LED light cluster to see where it is going!

This guide is specifically for lights and or theatrical fixtures, as that is my primary area of expertise, but the information works elsewhere.

So what do all the numbers mean and what is a good buy?

Light is measured in LUX or lumen.  A lumen is the measure of the brightness of a candle flame, at a distance of one foot.  So if you have a 100 lumen fixture, it is fairly bright.  Compare this to a standard LCD projector which averages 2500 lumens to 4500 lumens.  Most LED consumer level fixtures and prosumer fixtures will fall into the range of 90 to 700 lumen. 

So what is important to you?  Color?

Color on most (but not all) LED fixtures is generated by mixing different amounts of lights from the Blue, Green, and Red LEDs.  There are different ways of doing it but in my experience, both a DMX and a local control is best (via dip switch for instance).

You can also buy fixtures that are strictly one color, for accent lighting perhaps.  Most often used in architectural settings, they are used because of their power draw and long lifespan.  White is the least requested. 

Now there are newer LEDs which appear to be white from the outside, but are able to generate RGB colors.  This advancement is HUGE because it allows us to create a TV as big as we want for instance.  RGB single LEDs act just like a pixel on a screen, and when you combine enough of them, and put them close enough together, you have a TV screen... you just need something to decode the signal and tell the LEDs when to turn on and off, and at what color value.

Fixtures are currently (as of 2009) available in all kinds of budget ranges, and we are seeing more and more theatrical fixtures going toward LEDs as they get brighter and brighter.  Now we are seeing moving yoke lights, with big bright single wattage lights, and then next should come the cannon style, or even LEKO if the outputs are high enough.

Eventually, almost all incandescent lighting should be gone as LEDs take over the job held for almost a hundred years, by a electrically charged bit of carbonized wire.

Who knows what the next technology might be?  All we can be sure of is that we need to be aware of these changes, and make the switch to LED as we feel comfortable.

In my own profession, I use small Par 36 cans with RGB control every day.  And I also use 12V battery operated fixtures that operate via a wireless remote.  I intend to start integrating them wherever I feel the need, as long as they meet my demands and pricepoint, and after all, that is what buying and bidding is all about.

Look for a name brand you know.

Look for the rated output if known as well as power consumption.

Look for the ways to control fixture.

And look at the longevity.

Even buying a used fixture can be a great idea as long as you get a written promise of no DOA equipment.