( 
)Do you need a UHP, UHE, or V-PIP bulb? Or do you just THINK you need one!
Buying a replacement projector bulb can be expensive in more ways than one. Sure, theres the cost of the bulb, but many times there may be other problems that aren't even related to the bulb. In the past years I've seen a lot of good money wasted on a new bulb and/or repairs when it would have been more cost affective to have bought a new unit. Here are three basic steps to keep you in the green.
1) Research Your Model!
The most research I see done when it comes to a "projector down" is to find the cheapest replacement bulb possible! Heres a thought; try "googling" your model number along with the words like 'problem', 'trouble', and 'warranty'. Do the same with the word 'troubleshooting'. Sometimes your high dollar bulb not firing may be a simple fuse or a series of buttons you push to reset the projector. The web is a much better source of info than the user manuals.
2) Ask a Pro!
Its hard to diagnose problems over the phone or on-line. But if you spend some time on 'step one', you can usually become a wealth of information to those who will listen. The trick here is to find someone who is familiar with your model! Always start local by calling around. I doubt you where the only one in town to have bought your model, so if its a popular unit and a problem child you'll hear about it. There are also a great deal of forum sites that have people who live for this! Use thier knowledge. I just received outstanding input & service from jmayes @ http://www.gotabulb.com/ . He performed a $150.00 repair/tune-up in lieu of a $250 bulb for our church's Toshiba TY-G5U. Its a model he's extremely intimate with and the quality of the repair was nothing short of amazing!
3) Know Your Bulb!
So its not a repair issue, its the bulb! It happens... A lot! Just remember, you get what you pay for. But this doesn't mean you have to spend more money to get a great bulb, it just means there's a great deal of trash out there.
Knockoffs: They come from everywhere, not just China. And some OEM's come from China! But if you get one you'll know it. They just feel cheap and they're not often marked the same. Just ask for OEM before you buy.
Seconds/Pulls: These ARE OEM, poor OEM! On seconds, the light may be uneven or spotted, or the power below/above spec. They are usually marked, so beware of large mark outs on your new bulb. Pulls are just used bulbs... period!
Modules: This is the way your bulb is mounted. Buying a new module is often unnecessary and can easily double your cost. When you buy a replacement bulb from reputable dealers like jmayes @ http://www.gotabulb.com/ , they will often allow you to send your bulb caddy to them and they will fit it for free!
Wattage: Typically you should NOT change the wattage of your lamp. A higher wattage lamp will burn somewhat brighter and give off higher heat. Heat bad! A lower wattage bulb will be driven too hard and will die quickly. There are some exception (like my recent 120/132W UHP Size-A in place of a 100w), but its best to ask a pro!
There it is in a nut shell. If you research and ask questions you should do just fine.
MaxProAndU
Buying a replacement projector bulb can be expensive in more ways than one. Sure, theres the cost of the bulb, but many times there may be other problems that aren't even related to the bulb. In the past years I've seen a lot of good money wasted on a new bulb and/or repairs when it would have been more cost affective to have bought a new unit. Here are three basic steps to keep you in the green.
1) Research Your Model!
The most research I see done when it comes to a "projector down" is to find the cheapest replacement bulb possible! Heres a thought; try "googling" your model number along with the words like 'problem', 'trouble', and 'warranty'. Do the same with the word 'troubleshooting'. Sometimes your high dollar bulb not firing may be a simple fuse or a series of buttons you push to reset the projector. The web is a much better source of info than the user manuals.
2) Ask a Pro!
Its hard to diagnose problems over the phone or on-line. But if you spend some time on 'step one', you can usually become a wealth of information to those who will listen. The trick here is to find someone who is familiar with your model! Always start local by calling around. I doubt you where the only one in town to have bought your model, so if its a popular unit and a problem child you'll hear about it. There are also a great deal of forum sites that have people who live for this! Use thier knowledge. I just received outstanding input & service from jmayes @ http://www.gotabulb.com/ . He performed a $150.00 repair/tune-up in lieu of a $250 bulb for our church's Toshiba TY-G5U. Its a model he's extremely intimate with and the quality of the repair was nothing short of amazing!
3) Know Your Bulb!
So its not a repair issue, its the bulb! It happens... A lot! Just remember, you get what you pay for. But this doesn't mean you have to spend more money to get a great bulb, it just means there's a great deal of trash out there.
Knockoffs: They come from everywhere, not just China. And some OEM's come from China! But if you get one you'll know it. They just feel cheap and they're not often marked the same. Just ask for OEM before you buy.
Seconds/Pulls: These ARE OEM, poor OEM! On seconds, the light may be uneven or spotted, or the power below/above spec. They are usually marked, so beware of large mark outs on your new bulb. Pulls are just used bulbs... period!
Modules: This is the way your bulb is mounted. Buying a new module is often unnecessary and can easily double your cost. When you buy a replacement bulb from reputable dealers like jmayes @ http://www.gotabulb.com/ , they will often allow you to send your bulb caddy to them and they will fit it for free!
Wattage: Typically you should NOT change the wattage of your lamp. A higher wattage lamp will burn somewhat brighter and give off higher heat. Heat bad! A lower wattage bulb will be driven too hard and will die quickly. There are some exception (like my recent 120/132W UHP Size-A in place of a 100w), but its best to ask a pro!
There it is in a nut shell. If you research and ask questions you should do just fine.
MaxProAndU
Guide created: 05/03/08 (updated 08/26/08)
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