Jade..

In History, Literature and Lore:  In prehistoric times, jade was used in all parts of the world for arms and instruments because of its exceptional toughness. For over 2,000 years, jade was part of religion in China, and mystical and cult figures were traditionally cut from it.

In China, it was called “yu,” though the name “jade”--which goes back to the Spanish conquest of central and south America-- is the one commonly used. It means “hip stone,” because it was seen as a protection against, and cure for, diseases of the kidneys. In Chinese culture, jade was also important after death.

Carved amulets were placed in the deceased mouth, with amulets and favorite pieces being included in the burial shroud, and on parts of the body. These “tomb jades,” were both offerings to the gods and believed to protect the body from decay.

In pre-Columbian central America, jade was more highly valued than gold. The Spanish conquistadors destroyed the art of jade carving in America, and following the Conquest, the jade sources were lost.

According to a Chinese encyclopedia written in 1596,“drinking a mixture of jade, rice and dew water strengthens the muscles, hardens the bones, calms the mind, enriches the flesh, and purifies the blood.” For the Chinese, jade is a symbol of longevity, given as gifts within the family and worn throughout a person’s lifetime.
 
What to Look For: 

Jadeite is one of the toughest known gem materials. Its resistance to hammer blows is one way it is, in fact, identified in the field. This means that jadeite can be carved into fine and intricate forms with little risk of breakage. The material can be very difficult to polish. Veins, clots, zoning and deformation can produce various color formations and patterns.

The range of colors is due to substitutions of various elements in the rock. The most valuable is imperial jade, a translucent, rich emerald green jadeite from Burma which is even in color.

In stones that are typically mottled, even specimens are particularly prized. Another prized stone is apple-green jade, a brighter yellow green of extraordinary vibrance. Buyers should beware that jadeite might be bleach and polymer impregnated, and should be sent to a well-qualified lab for certification. 

Amber - A Brief Overview...

The name comes from the Arabic, probably through Spanish, but this word referred originally to ambergris, which is an animal substance quite distinct from yellow amber.

True amber has sometimes been called kahroba, a word of Persian derivation signifying "that which attracts straw", in allusion to the power which amber possesses of acquiring an electric charge by friction.

Amber, which has no primitive uses, has been found at Neolithic sites far from its source on the shores of the Baltic sea, mute witness, like obsidian, to long-distance trade routes established before the Bronze Age. There is strong evidence for the theory that the Baltic coasts during the advanced civilization of the Nordic Bronze Age was the source of most amber in Europe, for example the amber jewelry found in graves from Mycenaean Greece has been found to originate from the Baltic Sea.

During the 15th century, the Teutonic Knights controlled the production of amber in Europe, forbidding its unauthorised collection from beaches on the Baltic coastline under their jurisdiction, and punishing breakers of this ordinance with death.

What Make Amber Interesting?  Inclusions.....Bugs, Feathers and Hair....

The resin contains, in addition to the beautifully preserved plant-structures, numerous remains of insects, spiders, annelids, crustaceans and other small organisms which became enveloped while the exudation was fluid. In most cases the organic structure has disappeared, leaving only a cavity. Even hair and feathers have occasionally been represented among the enclosures. Fragments of wood frequently occur, with the tissues well-preserved by impregnation with the resin; while leaves, flowers and fruits are occasionally found in marvellous perfection.

Sometimes the amber retains the form of drops and stalactites, just as it exuded from the ducts and receptacles of the injured trees. Bony amber owes its cloudy opacity to minute bubbles in the interior of the resin. In the Dominican Republic exists a type of amber known as the Blue Amber.

Where in the World is Amber Found...Right on the Beach!

Although amber is found along the shores of a large part of the Baltic Sea and the North Sea, the great amber-producing country is the promontory of Sambia, now part of Russia.

Pieces of amber torn from the sea-floor are cast up by the waves, and collected at ebb-tide. Sometimes the searchers wade into the sea, furnished with nets at the end of long poles, by means of which they drag in the sea-weed containing entangled masses of amber; or they dredge from boats in shallow water and rake up amber from between the boulders. Divers have been employed to collect amber from the deeper waters.

Amber's Use in Jewelry...

Amber is extensively used for beads and other ornaments, and for cigar-holders and the mouth-pieces of pipes. It is regarded by the Turks as specially valuable, inasmuch as it is said to be incapable of transmitting infection as the pipe passes from mouth to mouth.

The variety most valued in the East is the pale straw-coloured, slightly cloudy amber. Some of the best qualities are sent to Vienna for the manufacture of smoking appliances. In working amber, it is turned on the lathe and polished with whitening and water or with rotten stone and oil, the final lustre being given by friction with flannel.

Ammolite Jewelry...

Ammolite is a rare and valuable opal-like organic gemstone found primarily along the eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountains of the United States and Canada.  

It is made of the fossilized shells of ammonites, which in turn are composed primarily of aragonite, the same mineral that makes up nacreous pearls. It is one of the three biogenic gemstones, the other two being amber ad pearl. In 1991 ammolite was given official gemstone status and that very same year commercial mining of ammolite began. In 2004 this gemstone was designated the official gemstone of the Province of Alberta.

Ammolite is also known as aapoak (Kainah for "small, crawling stone"), gem ammonite, calcentine, and korite. The latter is a trade name given to the gemstone by the Alberta-based mining company Korite International, the first and largest commercial producer of ammolite.

Ammolite Colors:

An iridescent opal-like play of color is shown in fine specimens, mostly in shades of green and red; all the spectral colors are possible, however. The iridescence is due to the microstructure of the aragonite: unlike most other gems, whose colors come from light refraction, the iridescent color of ammolite comes from interference with the light that rebounds from stacked layers of thin platelets that make up the aragonite.

The thicker the layers, the more reds and greens are produced; the thinner the layers, the more blues and violets predominate. Reds and greens are the most commonly seen colors, owing to the greater fragility of the finer layers responsible for the blues. When freshly quarried, these colors are not especially dramatic; the material requires polishing in order to reveal the colors' full potential.

Ammolite Quality:

The quality of gem ammolite is communicated via a letter grade system, from best to least best: AA; A+; A; and A-. However, this system is not yet standardized and some vendors may use their own systems. The grade and therefore the value of an ammolite gemstone is determined by the following criteria:

A large array of color is displayed in ammolite, including all the spectral colors found in nature. Red and green are far more common than blue or purple due to the latter's fragility.

There are also certain hues, like crimson or violet or gold, which are derived from a combination of the primary colors, that are the rarest and in highest demand. The most valuable grades have roughly equal portions of three or more primary colors or 1?2 bright and even colors, with the lowest grades having one comparatively dull color predominant.

The brightness of colors and their iridescence is essentially dependent on how well-preserved the nacreous shell is, and how fine and orderly the layers of aragonite are. The quality of the polish is also a factor. The "dragon skin" cracking usually hinders its value; the most prized ammolite is the sheet type and has broad, uninterrupted swathes of color similar to the "broad flash" category of opal. The matrix is not visible in finer grades, and there should be no foreign minerals breaking up or diminishing the iridescence.

Imitations:

Ammolite is neither easily nor often imitated; however, a few materials have a passing resemblance that may deceive the unfamiliar. These include: labradorite (also known as spectrolite), an iridescent feldspar also of Canadian origin; and broad-flash black opal.

Neither are convincing substitutes, and the latter is actually of greater value than ammolite.

Indeed, ammolite is often used as an imitation of black opal. An even less convincing possibility is Slocum stone, a common glass-based imitation of opal. Blues and purples are much more pervasive in labradorite, and in both it and opal the play of color is seen to roll across the stone unlike the comparatively restricted play of color in ammolite. In Slocum stone, the play of color takes the form of tinsel-like patches. The visible structure is also considerably different; in the imitations, the body of the stone is transparent to translucent from certain angles, whereas ammolite is entirely opaque.

Ammolite Jewelry:

Ammolite is usually fashioned into freeform cabochons and mounted in gold, with diamonds as accents. Due to its delicacy, ammolite is best reserved for use in pendants, earrings and brooches; if used as a ring stone, ammolite should be given a hard protective cap, namely one of synthetic spinel as used in triplets. Whole polished ammonites of appropriately small size may also be mounted in jewelry. Nothing harsher than mild soap and warm water should be used to clean ammolite jewelry; ultrasonic cleaning should be avoided.

Treatments:

It should be noted that although the vast majority of commercial-grade ammolite has been treated in some way, a small fraction of production requires no treatment other than cutting and polishing. Ideally, any treatments should be disclosed at the time of sale.

Pricing:

Ammolite is considered the rarest organic gem material. It is soft and delicate, most often requiring special processing techniques known only to a few experts specializing in this commercial industry. In its rough state, ammolite is sold for USD $30 to 65 per carat. 

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