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How to tell quality vintage jewelry from junk!

by: tru_gritt02( 1877Feedback score is 1000 to 4,999) Top 5000 Reviewer
6 out of 6 people found this guide helpful.
Guide viewed: 856 times Tags: Vintage | Jewelry | Antique | Quality | Treasures


TIPS FOR CHOOSING QUALITY VINTAGE JEWELRY PIECES
Just a few helpful pointers from one treasure hunter to another


Choosing Vintage jewelry does NOT have to be a hit or miss purchase! There are several simple things to remember when you are shopping for a quality piece of vintage or antique frippery or finery.
In this guide, im going to share what I have learned about shopping for pieces that will fit, suit you, be a beautiful start or addition to your collection, and last you for many years.

RULE # 1
Jus
t because a piece of jewelry is older, or USED, does NOT make it VINTAGE.
 Remember that nothing produced or crafted after 1989 is vintage jewelry. Its just USED.  There are many classifications for the age of jewelry, under the category of vintage.  You have newer vintage (RETRO VINTAGE) and older vintage (ART DECO, ART NEVEAU, MODERNIST)  and everything in between.  Please remember that if it contains new design, such as ELECTROPLATING, to ask your seller for an approximate age if it is not already provided. Make sure you are getting a 1989 or earlier item. :)

RULE # 2
Just because it looks really really old, does NOT make it worth alot of money!
You want to look for several things when you are choosing a piece, before you spend a large amount on it.  Look for these attributes, and you will get a very nice item!
FUNCTIONALITY: do all the clasps work? are they firm and do they hold well? Are there bends and kinks in the chain that might break?
WEIGHT: Is the piece a solid weight for its size (large light peices are not as valuable as smaller HEAVY pieces!) and material?
CRAFTING: Is your PLASTIC item SEAMLESS (seamless plastic= better quality)?  Are the rhinestones in the item PRONG SET? OR GLUED (prong set is nicer, lasts longer, holds through chemical cleaning... glue may NOT)? 
PLATING; Is the gold or silver plating intact or is there alot of wear? can you see the bare metal under the plating?  Is it silver/ gold PLATED, or silver/gold TONED (silver plating is more DURABLE than silvertone)?
STONE CLARITY: are the stones grey or yellow when they are supposed to be white/clear (that is a sign that the stones have lost their luster and have therefore lost some value... NOT ALL... but some)?  Are the stones SMOOTH and SHINY, or scratched and dull? Are they the original stones, or have they been replaced with stones that ALMOST match??

Rule #3
Most vintage jewelry is NOT marked with a SIZE. If the size is not noted, make sure to ASK, and do not settle for S,M,L, XL if it can be measured in inches. For bangles and cuffs and rings, ask for either a general fit (ex: ladies size 6.5, ladies 7, etc) or a circumference if the seller does not have a sizer.
For a link bracelet, necklace, or chain bracelet with clasp, ask for the LENGTH of the bracelet with the clasp CLOSED.

Rule #4
Do not assume that all marked/hallmarked/signed jewelry is equal.  Know your crafters and designers, research their work and craftsmanship and VALUE if you really want to find TRUE TREASURES.
Also remember that some UNSIGNED pieces are TREASURES that the maker did not take proper credit for. An unsigned quality crafted quality material brooch may be worh much more than a simple run of the mill mass produced marked brooch!


If you are looking for a QUALITY, VALUABLE piece of vintage jewelry, keep these things in mind. They will help guide you in choosing a good piece.
Of course, if you are just looking for FUN, you could always just fly by the seat of your pants, and see what happens! LOL




















Guide ID: 10000000008587333Guide created: 09/05/08 (updated 08/26/09)

 
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