Attempts at imitating diamonds include the duplicates: cubic zirconia, moissanite, rhinestones, zircon, and white sapphires.

Cubic Zirconia or CZ do simulate the appearance of diamonds. They are the most widely used simulant. CZ exist in synthetic and natural forms. They can easily be detected using a thermal pen tester. Also, though they are very beautiful, they are too perfect. However with constant use, wear and tear on the edges will soon be visible. CZ are not as hard as diamond, being 7.5 to 8.0 in the Mohs Scale compared to diamond’s 10.0, but are 75% heavier.

However, the latest simulant is the synthetic moissanite, so much like the diamond that even skilled jewelers get baffled. Unlike with the CZ, the thermal pen tester cannot be used for moissanite for it also resembles the thermal characteristics of diamonds.

Rhinestones, considered the most basic diamond simulant, are inexpensive and thus, popular. It is made from silica or silicon dioxide, the same material that makes up glass, with a golden foil coating.

Zircon is made from a mineral called zirconium silicate. Zircons are usually browns and greens but with heat treatment, can be transformed into blue and golden colors and colorless even. Green zircons however may have natural radioactive component, making it not advisable to be worn daily. The beauty of zircons is that it comes in clean crystals and usually in large sizes. However, it is also not as hard as diamond, only nearly as hard as CZ (7.0 in the Mohs scale).

White sapphires are harder that CZ and zircon, but not as hard being only 9.0 on the Mohs Scale. But with such hardness, plus their radiant quality, they are superb diamond substitutes. White sapphires are rare though. Furthermore, they are heat treated to achieve color uniformity and improve its appearance.

Buying Loose Diamond Bewares

If you know you have no knack for detecting real diamonds, don’t pretend you are. But only those appraised and certified by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the European Gem Lab (EGL) for the qualities that these diamonds claim to be.

However, whether you’re in the know or not, it’s better to know what to watch out when checking out diamonds.

First of all, do not be lured by diamonds “on sale”. There is no such thing but inflated sale prices. The “discounted amount” is actually the regular price in the industry. How would you know the regular price? Scout other diamond dealers. Check out wholesale pricelist. Do not be contented with just one dealer even if the diamond suits you. Do not be taken by first impression.

Lighting is a frequent tool to make the diamond seem to fluoresce or look whiter than it actually is. Place the loose diamond on a white background under a white fluorescent light. Do not trust its color when there’s a spotlight.

Weight matters. A 65-point diamond is not the same as a ¾ carat. Have it weighed on an electronic scale. Buy only loose diamonds. That way, you can have it weighed and see for yourself its true mass.

“Loupe” the vacuum. Some jewelers laser drill the diamond to remove black carbon and thus improve its appearance. However, the process leaves a tunnel that can weaken the diamond. This is aggravated with frequent drilling. Such tunnel is invisible to the naked eye but detectable using a 10X loupe.

After making your choice, have your jeweler or dealer put in writing all the qualities, conditions, and imperfections of your diamond, complete with drawings. Use this record when you claim your prized piece to make sure that no switch has been made.