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How to repair a broken Nintendo NES

by: dallasmizzike( 1276Feedback score is 1000 to 4,999) Top 5000 Reviewer
2 out of 2 people found this guide helpful.
Guide viewed: 1058 times Tags: Nintendo | NES | 72 pin | Mario | repair


We all remember the old 8-bit NES days of blowing into the system, blowing into the cartridge, fitting the game in just right to avoid that flashing screen. Unfortunately, most used NES systems run into this problem at one point or another. I've had hundred's of NES systems come through my store at one point or another and 99% of the time when one has a problem it can be fixed with the process in this guide. Normally, when a Nintendo starts acting funny, it's simply because it's been over used. When a cartridge is inserted into a NES system, the connector pins retract to interact with the chip in the cartridge. Over time, these pins wear out or retract permanently to the point that they never touch the cartridge chip and cannot read the game. Each pin is designed like a spring. When a cartridge is inserted into the system, the pins are depressed, producing just enough tension with the game to get a signal. Nintendo made the NES so that cartridges would not have to be forcefully inserted. Although this is convenient, wear and tear on the poor connector pins is almost inevitable. You see, after so many insertions, the pins do not return to their firm positions. Instead, they remain depressed even after the cartridge is removed. This results in a loss of connectivity between the game board and the connectors; the NES thinks that no game is present and gives you blue screens and power flashes. The absolute BEST way to get your NES working is to replace the 72 pin connector. I have seen these for about $10 right here on eBay. If you want to go this route, try searching for "NES pin connector."  If you decide to buy a new connector, or repair the old one, simply follow the instructions below for your path to 8-bit bliss.

1. First things first...we have to get inside your Nintendo. Make sure everything is unplugged from the unit and flip it over. Using a Phillips head screwdriver, remove all of the screws and remove the gray plastic bottom from the lighter gray plastic top. Flip the bottom of the unit back over. You should now see a shiny, silver, metal cover. Now unscrew and remove this metal shield from the unit. (Make sure you keep all the different sets of screws separate from each other in a manner in which you can remember where they go when you're done. One thing I do is set each piece (gray lid, silver shield, etc.) with their respective sets of screws)

2. To make things easier, you may want to unscrew the entire black-plastic cartridge loading system from the motherboard (flat green computer looking thing). You may have to jiggle it out a bit; don't worry, it is pretty sturdy. This isn't completely necessary but it makes working with the connector much much easier.

3. You should now have the 72 pin connector in hand. To be sure, here's what it looks like:


If you opted to purchase a new connector, simply replace the old one with your new one and skip down to step 4.
If you decided to repair the one you've got, read on...

Get a tiny screwdriver and carefully insert the screwdriver UNDERNEATH the first of the bottom connector pins. With a slight pull or a twist, bend the pin slightly up. DO NOT bend the pin too far as you could damage it. Now, repeat the process until all of the pins are restored. Once you have all the pins back to their proper position, replace the connector back where you found it.

4. Now all we have to do is put everything back together. Replace all of the pieces and the correlating screws in reverse order from the way you removed them. Normally I test a game out once I get the big green board back in place. Once you have confirmed that they system works, place the gray pieces back together, put in all the screws, and you're done.

This is great for eBayers. I've had plenty of experience buying units that didn't work very well. Don't fret, this fix is tedious but pretty straightforward. I prefer replacing the connector as it's much less work, but it is an extra 10 bucks! One thing to note about replacing a connector set is that it is very stiff when first assembled. Getting your games in and out of the system may be pretty tough for a few hundred uses, but it will work perfect. Over time, it will be much easier to get those games out. It's not really a big deal, but worth mentioning. Plus, it's such a small price to pay for the enjoyment you're going to have when you're playing Mega Man 2, or Super Mario Bros. 3! Good luck!




Guide ID: 10000000007941886Guide created: 07/11/08 (updated 03/10/09)

 
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