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Believe it or not, laminate flooring is very easy to install and with this guide you can do it in just one weekend.
You can make your installation faster, easier and prevent damage to the wood by using installation kit designed specifically for floating floors. For example you can buy one at Lowe's called Precision Laminate Install Kit ( $16.88) and kit includes:spacers, tapping block, pull bar, trowel and glue scraper. Some laminate floors must be tapped together but the newest generation laminate has easy-lock system that you don't have to "tapp" at all.
Unlike hardwood flooring that must be nailed or glued down, laminate flooring called also floating floors are simply laid down without using nails, staples or gluing. Laminate Flooring is installed over a thin layer of underlayment and planks lock together with tongue-and-groove joints. Laminate planks aren't fastened to the subfloor at all.
You can make your installation faster, easier and prevent damage to the wood by using installation kit designed specifically for floating floors. For example you can buy one at Lowe's called Precision Laminate Install Kit ( $16.88) and kit includes:spacers, tapping block, pull bar, trowel and glue scraper. Some laminate floors must be tapped together but the newest generation laminate has easy-lock system that you don't have to "tapp" at all.
PREP THE ROOM
INSTALLATION DO'S AND DON'TS
DO:
- If the room is carpeted, remove the old carpeting and padding to expose the plywood subfloor. If the room has a sound wood or vinyl floor, you can install the floating floor right on top. Laminate flooring also can be laid over cement slab. However, you have to use special underlayment with vapor barrier to protect your laminate against moisture from concrete.
- Start by vacuuming the subfloor. Then, roll out the foam underlayment perpendicular to the direction of the planks. 3mm thick laminate underlayment will even out minor irregularities and help cushion the floating floor.For additional sound protection you can consider special SILENT underlayment that can reduce sound better than cork. Butt together the edges of underpad - be sure they don't overtlap. Some underpads have glued straps to hold rows together. If your underpad don't have this option you can secure rows with 2" wide tape.
- Moldings:
- Remove existing moldings- laid the flooring, then re-install
existing moldings or install new ones -if the previous ones were old
and ugly.
- Or you could live the baseboard in place, install the flooring and cover expansion gap between the floor and baseboard with quarter-round called also shoe molding.Regardless of which method you choose, be sure to nail the moldings to the wall, not to the floor.
- Door jambs preparation-at each door, trim the door casings and jumbs to allow the flooring to slip underneath. Use a handsaw and a piece of flooring and foam as a guide to cut the door trim.
- Work from left to right when laying the floor planks across the room, with tongue edges facing out.
- Leave at lease 1/2" expansion gap between the flooring and the walls, transition moldings, fireplace etc. During summer and winter time your laminate will expand and shrink so leaving some space for expansion is a critical issue when installing your floor. If the expansion gap will be too small, you might see buckling someplace on your floor. This is one of the biggest mistakes during installation - so remember proper expansion gap is very important!
- Stagger all end joints from one row to the next one by at least one foot
- Use all cut-out pieces of laminate as a starter of new row- this way you will have almost no waste.
- Planks in the last row must be at least 2" wide.
- Lay out all the planks for the first row, checking to make sure the last one will be at lease 8" long. If necessary, cut the first plank so the last one will be long enough.
- Set the first plank in place with it's tongue edge facing out. Slip 1/2" thick spacers between the plank and the wall.Install the second plank end to end with the first plank. When needed use hummer and short tapping block to connect the two planks. Do not over-tap- you will damage the locking system.Continue installing planks in the first row end to end. Use a handsaw or table saw to cut the last plank.
- Lay out enough planks for the next three or four rows. Be sure to stagger all end joints from one row to the next by at least 12".
- Install the first plank in the second row, setting its end against a spacer block. Interlock the plank into the flooring in the first row so that the tongue-and-groove joints locks.
- Continue to lay planks as you did for the first row, be sure to maintain spaces between the flooring and the walls.
- Never cut laminate in place when you install laminate -when dust will go into laminate locking system you will have problem to interlock planks together.
- Upon reaching the far wall, rip the planks in the last row to width using your saw.
- Double check if you have an adequate expansion gap between the last row and wall.
- Slip the planks into place, and use a hummer and steel pull bar ( if required) to draw the joints closed.
- Finish installation by installing wall-base and/or quarter round moldings.
INSTALLATION DO'S AND DON'TS
DO:
- Let the floor acclimate to room temperature for at lease 24 hours
- Be sure the read the instructions provides, as different laminates may require different techniques.
- Make sure the sub-floor is level and in good repair; clear all loose debris and dirt before laying the foam underlayment
- Tape together the seams of your underpad as you are laying it
- Stagger rows at least 12" from each other
- Always leave expansion gap around perimeter of the floor, and around any stationary objects such as pipes, columns, build in cabinets, etc.
- Use a plastic vapor barrier over all concrete floors, ceramic tile )if it is over concrete) and all heated floors.
- Use a tapping block when needed-but be sure not to over hammer or you will damage the grooves.
- NEVER cut your laminate in place when you are installing your laminate- if dust or small objects will stick to laminate locking system , you will have problem to lock boards properly.
- Nail and base molding or quarter round to the floor- always fix to the wall with room underneath for floor to expand and contract.
- Install over carpet, unless it is low pile commercial carpet or Berber (see manufacter's warranty -some of them like Pergo will not respect warranty unless ALL carpets are removed).
- If you do install over these types of carpet, don't use an underlayment. Too much cushion underneath will cause planks to separate.
- Run your laminate floor lengthwise over 30 feet - a transition strip must be used to continue
- Cut into the back of the laminate, as this will cause chipping in the decorative layer. Always be sure to cut into this layer
Guide created: 08/17/08 (updated 07/14/09)
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