Inadequate packing is why most shipped glass arrives broken. INADEQUATE is the key word here.

As a collector of EAPG, getting a piece of 100+ year old shattered glass almost makes me cry. I've written this guide, because whenever I've gotten what I call a DEATH RATTLE box...you can hear the contents rattling around when you go to the PO to pick it up since broken pieces of glass rattle...it has been due to poor packing. These basic directions for packing, however, can apply to any type of glass.

The post office insurance does not cover poor packing. They ask for the item along with all the packing material, then they confiscate everything. If they find the packing inadequate, they usually will not pay. So buying insurance can be a mute point if there is poor packing.

Double-boxing was recommended in the past and is still done by some. But, I think it can be avoided in most cases, by using a 2-stage system.

First we'll deal with the PACKET, the inner packing of the glass item/s. Then we will end with the PACKAGE, the final box ready for the shipper.

For the inner PACKET:

1- Stuff the insides of open glass, like tumblers, compotes, etc. I use clean paper, but other materials like packing peanuts or shredded paper are fine too.

2- If some area seems extra-fragile or easy to snap...ex., the narrow stem of an old kerosene lamp...I carefully wrap paper and/or bubble wrap around those areas until they are flush with the rest of the lamp, then tape the material to intself. No tape ever has to be stuck to the glass. I use this also for finials on lids, or anything which STICKS OUT: wrap around the area and tape.

3- Next, wrap the whole glass in padding material: bubble wrap...large bubbles or several layers of small bubbles are good, foam sheets, or even newspaper...several layers, one over the other. A few days in dry newspaper will not hurt glass. Tape all ends, and all around the material. Tape is cheap and doesn't weigh much. When I feel that the item with wrapping as is, could STAND ALONE and not be broken by dropping, it is secure enough for putting into the box, the final package. If I see a bare spot, where I can touch glass with my fingers, or the wrapping is too thin, I tape on another layer of padding to wherever it is needed. The finished packet often looks like a soft round ball, with no visible clue as to what's inside!

----Not too long ago I had to send 8 old beautiful goblets in one box. For starters, the glass was heavy, and I did not want the goblets to hit each other. For this job, I took the extra step of wrapping single-sided cardboard around each goblet. The cardboard extended a few inches beyond the end of the already foam-wrapped goblets, so I folded it in, making a stiff sleeve with a 4-sided end. Then I taped again around and up and down the sleeve.  Next I taped 2 goblets together, for a total of 4 separate packets. BUT, I stuffed them tightly together in the center of the box...again, not allowing room for movement. This was one of the heaviest boxes I've ever sent: 12 lbs., but it arrived in perfect condition. I took another extra precaution of putting strapping tape all around the box to keep flaps from popping open...very little can make strapping tape break...it has to be cut. Using the single-sided cardboard is a minor version of double-boxing. NB: for an extremely fragile piece, such as a wispy hand-made glass animal with thin legs, I would definitely double-box----

Remember: If you have 2 items to ship in one box, TAPE them together. If you have more than 2, try to tape some together and stuff all of them close together with enough material around to prevent their moving. You don't want anything to shift, because one piece could damage the other. Same goes for my ADEQUATE test here: if I think I could drop each whole packet of items taped together and nothing would break, I quit and move on to the next step, the package stage.

For the outer PACKAGE:

4- I look for a box which would ALLOW ABOUT 3 INCHES OR MORE of packing material around the item/s, the packet, as described above. I tape down the center of the box end flaps, and also tape the edges of the flaps to the sides for strength. Since I believe in snug packing, the flaps could pop open if not taped well. The corners of the box are important. Usually I stuff these hard with newspaper. I don't want the box to collapse. Then I put a layer of packing...crumpled paper, peanuts, foam, etc., for padding on the rest of the box base. I put the packet on top of the first layer in the box to be sure that the top will have room for the same type of treatment of the top and corners.

5- Next I use any number of various packing materials to stuff around the item/s, the packet: crumpled newspaper, shredded paper...great, but heavier than newspaper, styrofoam peanuts, recycled plastic air-pockets, and sometimes even recycled foam rubber or foam packing from something else. Occasionally I take a large piece of styrofoam and gouge it out to fit around the item in the box. Combining materials is fine, as long as everything is tightly packed.

When I go to tape the top of my package, the stuffed box, it usually requires just a bit of tugging to close the flaps. I want it fairly TIGHT! I've been told by the Postal folks that a package can wind up under a pile of others. Firm boxes have the best chance of survival against being crushed!

If I can, I use USPS boxes. If I recycle any other box, I use a big black marker and cross off any barcodes or addresses, etc., which might confuse the shippers and their equipment. You don't want your package to be led astray with an old barcode...the longer the shipper has your glass, the greater the chances for a tragedy. For these odd boxes, I stick a PRIORITY label on all sides, including the bottom. Then on each side of any type of box, I put ordinary white labels, 3 inch x 1 inch, which I pre-stamp with a re-inkable red 1 1/2 inch long FRAGILE stamp. Stamping the box without the label does not show up as well as the larger white labels.

----I prefer USPS Priority for several personal practical reasons: I have no easy access to a primary FedEx or UPS drop-off sites. And I am a hobbyist who does not want an account with either of these entities. USPS provides boxes and labels, all free of charge. If you print your label on their site, they give a free Delivery Confirmation, which is trackable online. AND, they will email the recipient with the information necessary to track the package. Half the printed sheet is pasted to the package; the other half has all the information I need about the package----

In SUMMARY:
- Pack all glass with padding which will hold up on its own against breakage even BEFORE it is boxed.

- Use plenty of TAPE to keep the padding material from slipping off the glass; use tape to hold multiple items together, so that they don't shift.

- Pack the boxes SNUGLY, with at least 3 inches of shock absorbing material around the inner packet. Corners are especially vulnerable to crushing, so pay particular attention to them.

Just one fun historic note: originally, EAPG, Early American Pattern Glass, my focus in collecting, was packed by the manufacturer in straw in wooden barrels for shipment. I always have a mental picture of  glass in straw in wooden barrels whenever I pack.

And you should be aware of the fact that a very small percentage of packages will get crushed due to the mechanical handling by the shippers no matter how well you pack. The shipper might say: it got caught in the conveyor belt, or a truck ran over it, etc. This is why I suggest, but don't require insurance when I send glass.

An occasional unscrupulous seller will send an item pre-broken, counting on the buyer to attempt to collect the insurance from the shipper, be is USPS, UPS, etc. So whenever a seller requires insurance, I look at his/her feedback and make an individual judgement based on the record of the seller, to decide on whether I want to bid on his/her items.

Also it is important to check out what the seller's main product is. Ex., if he/she sells mostly books or posters,  then he/she might not know how to pack glass adequately. In that case, you can refer the seller to this guide, give your own detailed suggestions, or wait for the next seller whose main focus is glass.

For any questions, clarifications, or suggestions, feel free to email me.

Ger (ger55)