I will start by dividing saxophone buyers into three categories. 1. The vintage sax collector. 2. The player
 looking for a new horn. 3. You don't know squat about saxophones, but your kid  has decided , for now, that saxophones are cool and would like to play one in the school band.
 Vintage collectible saxophones: Collecting vintage saxophones requires a lot of knowledge. I am a collector and repair tech. For me there are only five concerns: make, model, serial number, quantity produced and condition. Well maybe six, the sixth being price. Remembering that the subject is ebay saxophones, I can say from experience that unless the seller states that the horn has had a complete overhaul, it will need a complete overhaul over 90 % of the time. The seller may state that the pads look fresh, or that the horn is in playing condition. However, most of these horns come right out of attics or musty basements. Often the pads will look OK to the seller. After all the sax has sat in it's case for the last fifty years undisturbed. Amazingly some will even play after sitting for half a century. The problem is , it won't play long. What looks like a good pad to the seller is any pad that has no tares or stains. Often pads will look as fresh as they did the day they were placed into storage (the attic). After just a little play, the pads will start to tear and shred.. The corks are sometimes capable of surviving  storage  depending on the humidity levels . Cork is pretty tuff but can deteriorate due to some molds. They do better in the attic than the basement.  Before buying, consider the cost of overhaul which is a lot higher than for a newer horn. If you find a tech that will restore a vintage horn for less than $300., I would suggest getting references or looking for another tech. Consider this as a starting point.
Restorations can cost double that or more.  Once you have studied the ad photos, the single most important questions to ask are: Do all the keys move freely and return quickly? Serial number? Are all parts original? Are there any re solders? Evidence of repair? Pitting corrosion? Dents?  These are questions to ask only after researching the value of the horn. The following sites can be helpful:  http://www.saxpics.com/index.html  and  http://www.saxgourmet.com/ 

For the player looking for a new horn: You have two choices assuming that you are in the market for a used horn. Vintage or newer model. My first choice is always vintage, mostly because I like old things. They just don't make them like they used to. Most professional players would prefer a fifty year old Selmer VI, Martin, King Zephyr or Super, Conn M series, new wonders I and II or Buescher True Tones & 400 Top Hat and Cane to almost anything new. Once restored and set up properly,  these gems have superior sound to all but the most expensive newer horns. They tend to hold their value much better than newer models and for the most part have better intonation.  There are many other fine vintage horns to choose from. Do the proper research and you will be rewarded for your effort. The web sites above can be helpful.  Questions to ask: How old are the pads? When was the horn serviced last? Do all notes play top to bottom? Are there any leaks? Re solders? Evidence of repair?  Condition of corks and felts? Are all parts (except pads) original? Do all keys move freely?

Horns from the Far East:  So much crap, too little time. With few if any exceptions, if the horn was made in China or Taiwan {{{RUN AWAY!}}} The exception being that  you can't afford anything else. Enough said, and don't email trying to change my mind. In newer horns, Yamaha, Selmer, Keilwerth and Yanagisawa are good choices. Avoid Conn models with an N in the serial number.  These  were made in Nagalas Mexico and are of poor quality. I.M.H.O the last well made Conn sax was the Director model and made in the US. If you have a good repair tech.,  it may be well worth the effort and expense to buy a vintage horn in need of restoration. Many can be won on ebay for $100-$300. Reputable repair shops charge $200. and up for re-pads and you should plan to spend at least another $100+. for a vintage sax. The single biggest factor in the price of an overhaul is stuck and frozen keys. PERIOD. I can disassemble a saxophone in under ten minutes, fifteen with my eyes closed when all goes well. That's when ALL goes well. I have spent hours trying to coax one rusty pin out. One frozen upper stack rod could add an extra $100.or more to the repair bill. If you ask the seller only one question, ask if -ALL- of the keys move freely and return -QUICKLY- when released. It is best to talk with your repair shop before buying vintage. Some if not most repair shops don't do heavy restoration. You may have to ship the horn to another town to find a qualified repair tech.

So your kid wants to play saxophone and you actually know more about quantum physics than saxophones. Forget everything you just read. Except the part about the Chinese horns. You want one horn, ready to play, right now. You're on ebay because you figure this sax fad thing WHAT EVER thing your kid wants now  won't last  and you  want to hedge.  Maybe your child has real talent. Who knows? The reality is that most kids will move on to something else in a year or two. Then you figure to resell it on ebay. I would like to suggest a strategy or two. Don't be tempted by brand new saxophones you see all over ebay imported from the Far East. These sell for as little as $200, Buy it now. They are usually JUNK and may not last through the first school year without adjustment and repair. The most popular student horns on ebay for some time have been the Yamaha YAS 23, Selmer Bundy II, Keilwerth ST 90, King and if you can afford them Yanagisawa. These all hold up well under student abuse.  They are also known for having pretty good tone. Most importantly, they hold their value well. It costs hundreds of dollars to rent a cheap beat up sax for one school year. If you re-sell a couple of years later, this latest fad may cost you very little to nothing, if you stick to the better student saxes mentioned above. You may consider a restored vintage horn. If so, be careful to ask the right questions and know when the horn was last overhauled or consider having the overhaul done. Questions to ask:  Does the sax play all notes? When was the last time the sax was serviced? How old are the pads? Is there a mouthpiece? Case? Neck? Neckstrap? Lyre?  Cleaning tool? Reeds? Are there any dents? Have you ever had the horn repaired? Is there any visable corrosion? What does the inside of the horn look like? Bright brass or silver-good, black to green- not so good. Remember that ebay descriptions are vague and often over stated. What does Great condition mean? Often it means a great deal less to the seller than the buyer. The only way to be safe is to ask appropriate questions.

Disclaimer: My opinions of certain saxophone models are my opinion. I have played and serviced many saxophones. There are many I have never played and perhaps should have been mentioned. Your own independent research and a sellers feedback is the only way to bid with confidence. The two web sites above are a good start and will lead you to others. Spend time in the completed listings. Know what the sax is worth before bidding.Watch a couple of sax auctions from start to end. I buy and sell saxophones on ebay. I get answers to my questions or I don't buy. Still from time to time I am a little disappointed with a purchase. Then I realize what question I forgot to ask.

Good Luck

Mike @ wwflow