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In this guide, I will explain how to prepare your workspace, rod, and apply epoxy finish for a superior glossy finish.
Preparation
It is very important to prepare the all of the elements involved in the application of epoxy. Start off by selecting a clean and dust free environment. Indoors is best, away from air conditioning vents, fans, and open windows. It is also crucial to select a place where there is minimal traffic to minimize chances of accidental touches. Wipe the surface of the table or area where the rod will rotate. This is to minimize dust from lifting and sticking to the epoxy. Cover the area with plenty of newspaper or other material to protect the surface from epoxy spills.
OK, now it you are ready to prepare the rod for finish. Wipe the rod down with a lint free paper towel or cloth with a small amount of alcohol or other oil free solvent. Acetone is good, but may affect the finish of some blanks. Set the rod into the drier and while it dries, examine the wraps for hairs sticking out, dust, and fibers. Clean as necessary with a clean brush (not the one you pretend to apply epoxy finish). Small thread fibers can be cut with a nail clipper and then burnished. If too small, try applying some heat with a lighter to melt it down (Be careful when using this method, because you can burn the threat itself!).
Once you have established that the rod is ready, turn the drier on and let the rod rotate for a few minutes, making sure it is level. In case you are wondering, I do this just in case I did not secure the rod well, it will slip from the drier WITHOUT epoxy. Believe me, I've had plenty of rods popping out of the drier chuck with epoxy and ruining everything.
If the rod turns well and securely, you are now ready for the next step.
Epoxy Finish
First decide how much you will need for the job. It is better to mix more than less.
If your epoxy has been sitting for too long, it may have crystallized. Heating it up in the microwave or with a heat gun will melt down the crystals.
Take the syringes (or pump) and dispense EQUAL amounts of epoxy resin and hardener into a mixing cup. NEVER use medical syringes for epoxy as they contain silicone and will ruin your finish. I also don't recommend finishes with 2:1 ratio because it's hard to get it right.
At first the epoxy will become cloudy, then clear up again. Mix slowly and thoroughly for about two minutes (the slower the better to minimize bubbles) with a non-porous mixing stick. Never use wood sticks as it may shed splinters and wood fibers that can ruin your finish. Try a lollipop stick or plastic stirrer.
If you are using more than 10cc (5cc of resin and 5cc of hardener), I recommend pouring the mixture onto a larger metal dish such as tin foil cup. This larger area will keep the epoxy from heating up and curing too fast.
Applying the Epoxy Finish
Disposable brushes is what most people use, the are inexpensive and solve a lot of cleanup problems. I prefer a high quality flat sable or or other natural hair brush. They are expensive, about $7.00 to $10.00 each at the art store, but if you take care of them, they will last forever. The size of the brush will vary with the size of the wraps you are trying to cover. A 1/4" brush will do for most freshwater rods, but larger saltwater rods will use a lot of epoxy and are much thicker in diameter, so I use a 1/2" to 3/4" flat brush.
Once you have selected your brush of choice, turn on the drier (if it is not already on) and load the brush with a generous amount of epoxy finish and begin applying to the thread wrap. Always start with the largest wrap to use the larger amount of epoxy. As the drier turns, use the brush to spread the epoxy as evenly as possible. Work all the way to the edge of the thread and go past it about 1 or 2mm (1/32"-1/16"). This will completely seal the thread from water. Make sure you apply under the guide foot and leave no thread area uncovered.
Bubbles will normally form so don't worry. Carefully apply heat with a lighter or butane torch to burst the tiny air bubbles (do not overheat or epoxy will cure too fast) .
Letting it dry
Now just let time take its course. Most epoxy finishes will harden in about 4 hours, and ready for re-coat in about 8 hours. Just come back and check on your rod once or twice to make sure it is still turning on the drier.
Remember, several thin coats are better than one thick. So if you see an imperfection from the thread or dust, wait until the finish cures, then cut the protrusion with a sharp blade, then reapply another thin coat.
Cleanup
For those of you who use disposable brushes, there is really nothing to do, but as for myself, I clean my brushes with pure Acetone once I'm done. I normally leave the brush bristles submerged in acetone for one hour, then wipe dry and repeat with a clean acetone.
NEVER clean the inside of the syringes, only the outside and tip then store them.
That's it! not too painful! Once you get the hang of it, this will become second nature to you, and your rods will show your experience.
Tacklesuperbdeals
Visit my ebay store: Rod Building and Other Stuff
Preparation
It is very important to prepare the all of the elements involved in the application of epoxy. Start off by selecting a clean and dust free environment. Indoors is best, away from air conditioning vents, fans, and open windows. It is also crucial to select a place where there is minimal traffic to minimize chances of accidental touches. Wipe the surface of the table or area where the rod will rotate. This is to minimize dust from lifting and sticking to the epoxy. Cover the area with plenty of newspaper or other material to protect the surface from epoxy spills.
OK, now it you are ready to prepare the rod for finish. Wipe the rod down with a lint free paper towel or cloth with a small amount of alcohol or other oil free solvent. Acetone is good, but may affect the finish of some blanks. Set the rod into the drier and while it dries, examine the wraps for hairs sticking out, dust, and fibers. Clean as necessary with a clean brush (not the one you pretend to apply epoxy finish). Small thread fibers can be cut with a nail clipper and then burnished. If too small, try applying some heat with a lighter to melt it down (Be careful when using this method, because you can burn the threat itself!).
Once you have established that the rod is ready, turn the drier on and let the rod rotate for a few minutes, making sure it is level. In case you are wondering, I do this just in case I did not secure the rod well, it will slip from the drier WITHOUT epoxy. Believe me, I've had plenty of rods popping out of the drier chuck with epoxy and ruining everything.
If the rod turns well and securely, you are now ready for the next step.
Epoxy Finish
First decide how much you will need for the job. It is better to mix more than less.
If your epoxy has been sitting for too long, it may have crystallized. Heating it up in the microwave or with a heat gun will melt down the crystals.
Take the syringes (or pump) and dispense EQUAL amounts of epoxy resin and hardener into a mixing cup. NEVER use medical syringes for epoxy as they contain silicone and will ruin your finish. I also don't recommend finishes with 2:1 ratio because it's hard to get it right.
At first the epoxy will become cloudy, then clear up again. Mix slowly and thoroughly for about two minutes (the slower the better to minimize bubbles) with a non-porous mixing stick. Never use wood sticks as it may shed splinters and wood fibers that can ruin your finish. Try a lollipop stick or plastic stirrer.
If you are using more than 10cc (5cc of resin and 5cc of hardener), I recommend pouring the mixture onto a larger metal dish such as tin foil cup. This larger area will keep the epoxy from heating up and curing too fast.
Applying the Epoxy Finish
Disposable brushes is what most people use, the are inexpensive and solve a lot of cleanup problems. I prefer a high quality flat sable or or other natural hair brush. They are expensive, about $7.00 to $10.00 each at the art store, but if you take care of them, they will last forever. The size of the brush will vary with the size of the wraps you are trying to cover. A 1/4" brush will do for most freshwater rods, but larger saltwater rods will use a lot of epoxy and are much thicker in diameter, so I use a 1/2" to 3/4" flat brush.
Once you have selected your brush of choice, turn on the drier (if it is not already on) and load the brush with a generous amount of epoxy finish and begin applying to the thread wrap. Always start with the largest wrap to use the larger amount of epoxy. As the drier turns, use the brush to spread the epoxy as evenly as possible. Work all the way to the edge of the thread and go past it about 1 or 2mm (1/32"-1/16"). This will completely seal the thread from water. Make sure you apply under the guide foot and leave no thread area uncovered.
Bubbles will normally form so don't worry. Carefully apply heat with a lighter or butane torch to burst the tiny air bubbles (do not overheat or epoxy will cure too fast) .
Letting it dry
Now just let time take its course. Most epoxy finishes will harden in about 4 hours, and ready for re-coat in about 8 hours. Just come back and check on your rod once or twice to make sure it is still turning on the drier.
Remember, several thin coats are better than one thick. So if you see an imperfection from the thread or dust, wait until the finish cures, then cut the protrusion with a sharp blade, then reapply another thin coat.
Cleanup
For those of you who use disposable brushes, there is really nothing to do, but as for myself, I clean my brushes with pure Acetone once I'm done. I normally leave the brush bristles submerged in acetone for one hour, then wipe dry and repeat with a clean acetone.
NEVER clean the inside of the syringes, only the outside and tip then store them.
That's it! not too painful! Once you get the hang of it, this will become second nature to you, and your rods will show your experience.
Tacklesuperbdeals
Visit my ebay store: Rod Building and Other Stuff
Guide created: 10/08/09
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