( 
)
This guide will explain some methods to detect if a NES game is factory sealed or has been resealed. Games for other systems (Sega, Sony, other Nintendo systems) were sealed in all sorts of various ways, so please keep in mind this guide is for NES only.
1) First of all, 95% of NES games have a seam in the shrinkwrap that runs horizontally across the back of the box. The seam is sometimes called the "H seam", "H line", "Horizontal seam", or something similar. This seam ALWAYS starts exactly halfway down the box. A box is 7 inches (17.8 cm) high, so the seam should start 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) down both sides of the box. If a game is missing this horizontal seam, it is not necessarily resealed. Many games released by LJN/Acclaim were sealed with a vertical overlapping seam. The licensed versions of Pac-Man and Ms. Pac-Man released by Namco do not have any seam on the back. In addition, all unlicensed games (such as Tengen, Color Dreams, Camerica, Panesian, etc) were sealed in various different ways. If you have a licensed game that does not feature this horizontal seam, it could be resealed.
2) Please note that the presence of a "Horizontal seam" in the shrink wrap does NOT necessarily prove a game is factory sealed. Recently, resealers have started faking this seam, though it is hard to make a CONVINCING fake with the standard cheapo ~$100 shrink wrap machine that most resealers are using. Check the spot where the "H seam" comes perpindicular with the vertical part of the seam. If the game is a legitimate factory seal, the seam usually slightly bends to the side and slightly overlaps itself. If the game has been resealed, chances are it was resealed with cheap equipment and will just come straight down making a perfect 90 degree angle. The horizontal seam on the Burgertime (left) below meets perpendicular with the vertical part making a 90 degree angle, because it has been resealed. However, on the Dr. Chaos (right) below, the shrinkwrap slightly overlaps itself, because this game is a legitimately factory sealed.
3) The only way to tell for sure if a game has been resealed with 100% accuracy, is to check the "hinge" part of the top flap. As soon as the top flap has been opened for the first time, a white line will form at the hinge area, which is especially easy to notice on darker boxed games. This white line is difficult to see in white boxed games such as Anticipation, but for a darker boxed game such as Dragon Warrior IV, it is especially easy to notice. When the top flap opens and closes, wear and tear will start to accumulate around the hinge area. The more often a game box is opened and closed, the more wear and tear will start to accumulate around the hinge area. Sometimes resealers will take magic marker and color over the white line, making it harder to notice. Be sure to check closely under a bright light to look for slight discolorations and wear to make sure the white line hasn't been colored over. The picture of 1942 (left) below has wear around the hinges on the top flap and is a reseal. However, the copy of IronSword (right) below does not have any wear around the top flap. This is because it has never been opened and is a legitimate factory seal.
4) Check the hang tab. The hangtab used to hang most NES games is a "D" style hang tab, measuring 2 inches wide and 1.75 inches high. Often times the part of the hang tab that is stuck to the shrink wrap is slightly discolored, yet oddly enough, the rest of the tab is usually still clear. This is because of the type of the plastic used and the age. If a game has a hang tab with these properties, it is likely legit. *NOTE* Sometimes the hang tabs fell off the games, or in some cases retailers applied their own different style hang tab, so it is important to know that the absence of a hang tab or a different style tab does not mean the game is a reseal.
5) If the game is resealed the seller may know that it has been resealed, but don't send him rude emails because he may not know they are resealed either. Often times, if a retailer in the early 90s had a game returned to them, they would simply reseal it and sell them as new. This is called a "vintage reseal", and sometimes people resort to eBay simply to sell their old store stock and do not know their games are resealed. Always look out for the phrase "factory sealed". Some dishonest sellers will simply say "sealed" in which case they would not be lying. Furthermore, sometimes if a seller is knowingly selling reseals, he will purposely post low-quality photos, or photos of weird angles of the game, so that you can't easily tell that it's been resealed. If you have any doubts, email the seller first. Their response usually says a lot about their credibility and character. If they give you a bad vibe, it is best to proceed with caution or stay away entirely.
6) Price tags. Some legitimate factory sealed games have price tags on them, but resealers sometimes will add their own price tags onto the shrinkwrap. If the price tag looks old and discolored due to age, chances are it is a legit factory sealed game. Also, where is the price tag from? Generic white price guns can be purchased on eBay for around $15 shipped, but price tags from major retailers are not easy, and generally not worth the time, to reproduce. If a game has a price tag from a major retailer such as Toys R Us, Wal-Mart, K-Mart, etc., it is likely factory sealed.
7) Check the seller's feedback. Do they seem honest and legitimate? If they have 100s of positive feedback, they are likely not pulling a scam, but don't let that mislead you. If they have any negative feedbacks, check them. If a negative feedback says something about resealing games, you should proceed with caution or not proceed at all. I hope this is common sense.
If you have received a game that is a reseal, email the seller immediately and request a refund. Once again, the sellers response will say a lot about his character. If he will not allow you a refund, you can file a dispute with Paypal (if you paid with Paypal) as long as you file it within 45 days of the paypal payment. You will be required to send the item back and you will be responsible for return shipping charges. Make sure you purchase Delivery Confirmation to prove that you sent the item back, or Signature Confirmation if the original Paypal payment was $250 or more. I would not recommend leaving negative feedback unless the seller gives you a hard time and you are fairly certain he knew it was resealed when he sold it.
One last thing I'd like to say is simply to use common sense. If something seems suspicious, proceed with caution. Don't be afraid to bombard the seller with questions and request more photographs if unsure about the ones provided. Be smart about what you purchase.
1) First of all, 95% of NES games have a seam in the shrinkwrap that runs horizontally across the back of the box. The seam is sometimes called the "H seam", "H line", "Horizontal seam", or something similar. This seam ALWAYS starts exactly halfway down the box. A box is 7 inches (17.8 cm) high, so the seam should start 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) down both sides of the box. If a game is missing this horizontal seam, it is not necessarily resealed. Many games released by LJN/Acclaim were sealed with a vertical overlapping seam. The licensed versions of Pac-Man and Ms. Pac-Man released by Namco do not have any seam on the back. In addition, all unlicensed games (such as Tengen, Color Dreams, Camerica, Panesian, etc) were sealed in various different ways. If you have a licensed game that does not feature this horizontal seam, it could be resealed.
2) Please note that the presence of a "Horizontal seam" in the shrink wrap does NOT necessarily prove a game is factory sealed. Recently, resealers have started faking this seam, though it is hard to make a CONVINCING fake with the standard cheapo ~$100 shrink wrap machine that most resealers are using. Check the spot where the "H seam" comes perpindicular with the vertical part of the seam. If the game is a legitimate factory seal, the seam usually slightly bends to the side and slightly overlaps itself. If the game has been resealed, chances are it was resealed with cheap equipment and will just come straight down making a perfect 90 degree angle. The horizontal seam on the Burgertime (left) below meets perpendicular with the vertical part making a 90 degree angle, because it has been resealed. However, on the Dr. Chaos (right) below, the shrinkwrap slightly overlaps itself, because this game is a legitimately factory sealed.
3) The only way to tell for sure if a game has been resealed with 100% accuracy, is to check the "hinge" part of the top flap. As soon as the top flap has been opened for the first time, a white line will form at the hinge area, which is especially easy to notice on darker boxed games. This white line is difficult to see in white boxed games such as Anticipation, but for a darker boxed game such as Dragon Warrior IV, it is especially easy to notice. When the top flap opens and closes, wear and tear will start to accumulate around the hinge area. The more often a game box is opened and closed, the more wear and tear will start to accumulate around the hinge area. Sometimes resealers will take magic marker and color over the white line, making it harder to notice. Be sure to check closely under a bright light to look for slight discolorations and wear to make sure the white line hasn't been colored over. The picture of 1942 (left) below has wear around the hinges on the top flap and is a reseal. However, the copy of IronSword (right) below does not have any wear around the top flap. This is because it has never been opened and is a legitimate factory seal.
4) Check the hang tab. The hangtab used to hang most NES games is a "D" style hang tab, measuring 2 inches wide and 1.75 inches high. Often times the part of the hang tab that is stuck to the shrink wrap is slightly discolored, yet oddly enough, the rest of the tab is usually still clear. This is because of the type of the plastic used and the age. If a game has a hang tab with these properties, it is likely legit. *NOTE* Sometimes the hang tabs fell off the games, or in some cases retailers applied their own different style hang tab, so it is important to know that the absence of a hang tab or a different style tab does not mean the game is a reseal.
5) If the game is resealed the seller may know that it has been resealed, but don't send him rude emails because he may not know they are resealed either. Often times, if a retailer in the early 90s had a game returned to them, they would simply reseal it and sell them as new. This is called a "vintage reseal", and sometimes people resort to eBay simply to sell their old store stock and do not know their games are resealed. Always look out for the phrase "factory sealed". Some dishonest sellers will simply say "sealed" in which case they would not be lying. Furthermore, sometimes if a seller is knowingly selling reseals, he will purposely post low-quality photos, or photos of weird angles of the game, so that you can't easily tell that it's been resealed. If you have any doubts, email the seller first. Their response usually says a lot about their credibility and character. If they give you a bad vibe, it is best to proceed with caution or stay away entirely.
6) Price tags. Some legitimate factory sealed games have price tags on them, but resealers sometimes will add their own price tags onto the shrinkwrap. If the price tag looks old and discolored due to age, chances are it is a legit factory sealed game. Also, where is the price tag from? Generic white price guns can be purchased on eBay for around $15 shipped, but price tags from major retailers are not easy, and generally not worth the time, to reproduce. If a game has a price tag from a major retailer such as Toys R Us, Wal-Mart, K-Mart, etc., it is likely factory sealed.
7) Check the seller's feedback. Do they seem honest and legitimate? If they have 100s of positive feedback, they are likely not pulling a scam, but don't let that mislead you. If they have any negative feedbacks, check them. If a negative feedback says something about resealing games, you should proceed with caution or not proceed at all. I hope this is common sense.
If you have received a game that is a reseal, email the seller immediately and request a refund. Once again, the sellers response will say a lot about his character. If he will not allow you a refund, you can file a dispute with Paypal (if you paid with Paypal) as long as you file it within 45 days of the paypal payment. You will be required to send the item back and you will be responsible for return shipping charges. Make sure you purchase Delivery Confirmation to prove that you sent the item back, or Signature Confirmation if the original Paypal payment was $250 or more. I would not recommend leaving negative feedback unless the seller gives you a hard time and you are fairly certain he knew it was resealed when he sold it.
One last thing I'd like to say is simply to use common sense. If something seems suspicious, proceed with caution. Don't be afraid to bombard the seller with questions and request more photographs if unsure about the ones provided. Be smart about what you purchase.
Guide created: 08/08/06 (updated 11/08/09)
Thank you for voting. If your vote meets our 
