This guide is for those who want to know how to glue cured Polymer Clay Face Cabochons to surfaces. As a polymer clay and jewelry artist I have created & glued thousands of cabs successfully with 2 part epoxy. 2 Part Epoxy will allow you to glue polymer clay cabs to just about any surface. It is heat tolerant and provides the strongest and most permanent bond of any glue I have used, and I've tried MANY! ( I primarily use it to bond clay to metal (ie: pinbacks, bales, etc) and stone surfaces).
There are many brands & formulas of 2 part epoxy adhesives available at most craft and hardware stores. I currently use Liquid Nails Perfect Glue 3. I have used other brands and formulas successfully... this just happens to be the brand currently on my workbench. You may want to select a different brand/formula based on the surface you are trying to bond the clay to. There are formulas for just about everything--fabric, foam, wood, plastic, metal, and more. I've found LNPG-3 bonds clay to just about anything that can handle epoxy... particularly metal and non-porous surfaces.
Before using your glue READ ALL of THE PACKAGE INSTRUCTIONS & WARNINGS!! 2 part epoxy requires proper ventilation and you should not get it on your skin... or any surface you don't want it permanently stuck on (ie: the kitchen counter)!! Epoxy is stinky when its wet & it does not come off easily! If you have respiratory (breathing) difficulty or are sensitive to vapors I do NOT suggest gluing with Epoxy... have someone take care of the gluing for you or consider another product.
Helpful gluing tips:
There are many brands & formulas of 2 part epoxy adhesives available at most craft and hardware stores. I currently use Liquid Nails Perfect Glue 3. I have used other brands and formulas successfully... this just happens to be the brand currently on my workbench. You may want to select a different brand/formula based on the surface you are trying to bond the clay to. There are formulas for just about everything--fabric, foam, wood, plastic, metal, and more. I've found LNPG-3 bonds clay to just about anything that can handle epoxy... particularly metal and non-porous surfaces.
Before using your glue READ ALL of THE PACKAGE INSTRUCTIONS & WARNINGS!! 2 part epoxy requires proper ventilation and you should not get it on your skin... or any surface you don't want it permanently stuck on (ie: the kitchen counter)!! Epoxy is stinky when its wet & it does not come off easily! If you have respiratory (breathing) difficulty or are sensitive to vapors I do NOT suggest gluing with Epoxy... have someone take care of the gluing for you or consider another product.
Helpful gluing tips:
- For non-porous surfaces and the Polymer clay: Gently sand or scratch the surface areas to be glued. This helps the glue penetrate and hold/bond better. I use sandpaper, small files, nail files, or a needle to scratch surfaces.
- Clean the sanded surfaces with rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab and let them dry for a few minutes. Polymer clay and most metals/nonporous surfaces have oil on them, that can repel glue. Remember, your hands can leave oil on the surfaces, keep them off of cleaned surfaces ready to be glued.
- Mix and apply epoxy glue per manufacturer's instructions. When squeezing the 2 parts of the epoxy out re-cap each tube immediately. (this keeps smell down & ensures you don't cross the caps and ruin your tubes of glue). Keep the blobs of glue separated from each other until you're ready to mix them with a toothpick or something disposable (most glues come with a tray and spatula). Toothpicks make good disposable applicators for small projects.
- Remember, more is not always better! Use a thin layer, adding gobs of glue makes a mess and does not help strengthen the bond--it can make it weaker.
- Most epoxy glues set in 5-15 minutes (once you mix the glue--work quickly) and take a full 12-24 hours to fully cure.
Guide created: 01/20/08 (updated 10/02/08)


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