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This is a guide for the novice perfumer, which details the basic steps to create your own signature perfume blends.
Getting Started
Fragrances are divided into top notes, middle notes, and base notes. The top note is composed of the lighter and more volatile fragrance materials. This is the first impact or first impression experienced as one opens a bottle of perfume. The middle note is the body or heart of the fragrance, which really defines its main character. Base notes are made up of the least volatile, longest-lasting ingredients, such as plant resins and woods. Base notes have a fixative character and can be discerned on the skin long after most of the fragrance has evaporated.
Perfumers organize their raw materials in a "perfume organ." This is a set of stepped shelves in a semi-circular shape, so named because the shape resembles the pipes of a cathedral organ. Professional perfumers work with hundreds of ingredients, but you can create many blends using just a handful of essential oils. Three to ten of your favorite oils will produce dozens of unique blends.
Here is a basic list of what you'll need to get started:
The scent of an oil sniffed from the bottle is just the first page in its story. Before beginning your blend, get a notebook! You will want to be sure to keep an accurate record of the ingredients and ratios you use. You can easily get caught up in the creative pleasure of formulating a good blend, but you don't want to create your perfect signature scent only to later realize you didn't write down the recipe!
To get your feet wet, try a three-oil blend. Pick three oils that interest you: a top note, middle note and base note. First, open the bottles, place them close together, and sniff. This will give you a very general idea of the character of the blend. Describe your initial impressions in your notebook.
A simple ratio to begin with is three drops of the top note, two drops of the middle note, and one drop of the base note. Roll the capped bottle containing the blend between your hands to mix the oils and warm them a bit. Give them a few gentle shakes to make sure they are well-blended, then sniff. The top note may seem to overpower the other oils, but it's the nature of top notes to express themselves first. They also fade the fastest, so don't make a snap judgment about the blend.
Place a drop of the oil on a smelling strip made from a sliced-up coffee filter and allow it to dry for fifteen minutes. Now give it a try. Has the scent evolved? Are other notes more fully present? Describing perfume is often like describing music. Has the base note drowned out the rest of your blend? Has the top note become too quiet? Can you discern the middle note at all? You want your perfume to have complexity and depth. You want the notes in your blend to harmonize with one another.
Work in a well-ventilated room and be sure to take frequent fresh-air breaks. Essential oils are highly concentrated, and inhaling their fumes directly for extended periods of time can make you feel dizzy or nauseous. Breaks are important for another good reason - you don't want to overpower your sense of smell. Your nose needs a rest! Besides fresh air, try breathing in the aroma of ground coffee to periodically refresh your sniffer.
The Final Product
Once you are satisfied with your initial perfume oil, label the bottle with the date and name. Now you can decant into your perfume bottle and add the appropriate amount of denatured or grain alcohol as a solvent. The general ratios of perfume oil to solvent for various types of perfume products are:
Denatured alcohol is preferable as a solvent, as grain alcohol may not fully incorporate all essential oils, forming layers, and will most likely overpower the scent until the blend has aged about a month. Regardless of the solvent you use, remember that your perfume will evolve over time. Shake the mixture twice daily. If you are using denatured alcohol, the scents should be pretty well incorporated by the third day. You may notice some surprising changes!
One caveat - you'll find it's terribly addictive. Have fun!
Lynn Phillips
Typing Monkey Apothecary
Getting Started
Fragrances are divided into top notes, middle notes, and base notes. The top note is composed of the lighter and more volatile fragrance materials. This is the first impact or first impression experienced as one opens a bottle of perfume. The middle note is the body or heart of the fragrance, which really defines its main character. Base notes are made up of the least volatile, longest-lasting ingredients, such as plant resins and woods. Base notes have a fixative character and can be discerned on the skin long after most of the fragrance has evaporated.
Perfumers organize their raw materials in a "perfume organ." This is a set of stepped shelves in a semi-circular shape, so named because the shape resembles the pipes of a cathedral organ. Professional perfumers work with hundreds of ingredients, but you can create many blends using just a handful of essential oils. Three to ten of your favorite oils will produce dozens of unique blends.
Here is a basic list of what you'll need to get started:
- Essential Oils (at least three, your selection should include top, middle and base notes)
- Denatured or Grain Alcohol
- Coffee filters cut into strips
- Ground Coffee
- Notebook
- Amber Glass Bottles (to protect your perfume oils from light)
- Perfume Bottles
The scent of an oil sniffed from the bottle is just the first page in its story. Before beginning your blend, get a notebook! You will want to be sure to keep an accurate record of the ingredients and ratios you use. You can easily get caught up in the creative pleasure of formulating a good blend, but you don't want to create your perfect signature scent only to later realize you didn't write down the recipe!
To get your feet wet, try a three-oil blend. Pick three oils that interest you: a top note, middle note and base note. First, open the bottles, place them close together, and sniff. This will give you a very general idea of the character of the blend. Describe your initial impressions in your notebook.
A simple ratio to begin with is three drops of the top note, two drops of the middle note, and one drop of the base note. Roll the capped bottle containing the blend between your hands to mix the oils and warm them a bit. Give them a few gentle shakes to make sure they are well-blended, then sniff. The top note may seem to overpower the other oils, but it's the nature of top notes to express themselves first. They also fade the fastest, so don't make a snap judgment about the blend.
Place a drop of the oil on a smelling strip made from a sliced-up coffee filter and allow it to dry for fifteen minutes. Now give it a try. Has the scent evolved? Are other notes more fully present? Describing perfume is often like describing music. Has the base note drowned out the rest of your blend? Has the top note become too quiet? Can you discern the middle note at all? You want your perfume to have complexity and depth. You want the notes in your blend to harmonize with one another.
Work in a well-ventilated room and be sure to take frequent fresh-air breaks. Essential oils are highly concentrated, and inhaling their fumes directly for extended periods of time can make you feel dizzy or nauseous. Breaks are important for another good reason - you don't want to overpower your sense of smell. Your nose needs a rest! Besides fresh air, try breathing in the aroma of ground coffee to periodically refresh your sniffer.
The Final Product
Once you are satisfied with your initial perfume oil, label the bottle with the date and name. Now you can decant into your perfume bottle and add the appropriate amount of denatured or grain alcohol as a solvent. The general ratios of perfume oil to solvent for various types of perfume products are:
- Perfume - 20 percent perfume oil
- Cologne - 15 percent perfume oil
- Eau de Cologne - 12 percent perfume oil
- Eau de Toilette - 5 percent perfume oil
Denatured alcohol is preferable as a solvent, as grain alcohol may not fully incorporate all essential oils, forming layers, and will most likely overpower the scent until the blend has aged about a month. Regardless of the solvent you use, remember that your perfume will evolve over time. Shake the mixture twice daily. If you are using denatured alcohol, the scents should be pretty well incorporated by the third day. You may notice some surprising changes!
One caveat - you'll find it's terribly addictive. Have fun!
Lynn Phillips
Typing Monkey Apothecary
Guide created: 01/15/06 (updated 05/02/09)
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