Most manufacturers no longer supply leadpipes for vintage tubas. However, there are universal leadpipes available. Most repair shops will charge you around $200-300 to install a leadpipe on a vintage tuba. However, if you are experienced in cutting tubing and soldering this repair can be accomplished at about half the price.

   First, disassemble the entire horn and be prepared to wash out the horn thoroughly once the repairs are completed. You will be doing a lot of soldering/fluxing. There will be a tremendous amount of flux fumes throughout the horn and you must remove all flux residue. Flux can severely damage the inside of your instrument if left inside it.

   Leadpipes are not the same diameter on each end. They are much smaller at the receiver end and graduate to a larger diameter at the first valve port ferrul. The replacement pipe must be the EXACT length as the original leadpipe. Otherwise, the horn will not play in tune. The universal pipe you will need is determined as follows:

1) Remove the old leadpipe and then remove the old receiver. This will require the use of a medium-sized tubing expander to hold the receiver firmly while heating the old solder and twisting the leadpipe out of the receiver.
2) Measure and record the overall length of the leadpipe.
3) Measure and record the diameter of the opening at the first valve port ferrul.
4) Measure and record the diameter of the opening of your receiver.
5) Your new leadpipe must meet three requirements:
    A) It must be longer than the original pipe.
    B) The large end must be larger than the measurement of your first valve port ferrul.
    C) The small end must be larger than the measurement of your receiver opening.

   Using a micrometer, measure the new leadpipe on both ends until you locate the position of both measurements required. Mark the positions with a SHARPIE or other permanent marker. Then use a standard ruler and measure the length between these two points. The length should be very close to the length of the old leadpipe. Cut the tubing at both of these marks. The tubing can be cut with a small tubing cutter. Remeber, if the length is slightly smaller, you can make up the length by pulling the receiver out slightly before soldering it into place. If the length is longer, simply cut the tubing slightly shorter on both ends equally. Either way, the pipe will be very close to the original and any tuning problems can be easily corrected with the tuning slides once the repairs are complete.

  Now you are ready to bend the new leadpipe to match your old leadpipe. The universal leadpipes are straight and pitch-filled, for ease of bending. Pitch is a hard tar-like compound and prevents the tubing from collapsing while you bend it. In the past, technicians have also used: Lead, Dirt, Sand, Wax, and even Ice! Bending is accomplished by various methods, depending on what you have available. Most hardware stores sell tubing benders and can possibly assist you with your needs. Remember to take your time bending the pipe. Refer to your old leadpipe and check angles often.

   After the bending is complete, move outside or to a well ventilated area and simply heat the pipe with a propane torch and the pitch will melt and run out the bottom of the pipe. Be sure to have a bucket under the pipe to catch the heated pitch. You will need to hold the pipe with some sort of clamp or hang the pipe with wire because the pipe will have to be heated to a very high temperature in order to melt and burn off all the pitch from the inside. The pipe can be buffed with a dremel buffing wheel and tripoli/rouge compound after the pitch removal process is complete.

  Now all you need to do is solder the receiver to the new leadpipe and then install the leadpipe to your horn using the original receiver brace and first valve port ferrul. You may also need to run a bead of solder along various areas of the leadpipe and attach it to the body. Sometimes this is necessary, even if the old leadpipe wasn't secured this way. You will quickly find that the pipe is not easy to bend exactly like the old one, but you will get close enough for a successful repair. 

   Once the soldering is complete you need to wash the leadpipe and valve casings thoroughly. Check the leadpipe for leaks at the soldering joints. Just plug the port end by removing the valve guide from the piston and turning it to a solid position over the port hole and blow into the receiver end. Leaks can be repaired by heating the solder joint and adding more solder/flux. Remember to clean the horn again if you have to repair any leaks.

  Now, insert the mouthpiece, adjust the tuining slides to your liking and prepare to perform The Flight Of The Bumblebees!

   Please visit our eBay store for all tools and supplies you need to complete this and many other instrument repairs!!!

                                               The Bandroom