CHOKERS: THE HOTTEST RETURN TO FASHION SINCE THE CAMEO!
Satin, lace and velvet ribbon chokers are "in", but will they suit you? How much should they cost? How do you clean and store them? Here's some advice.

Fabric chokers are very popular right now.  But you are probably wondering if they are "right for you"?  Well, you won't know until you experiment - and I've got some great tips to get you started!

Style Recommendations

Accessories are more than just something to fill a space - they help us express ourselves by highlighting what we like, and enhance our finer features.  Choose a design that highlights your individuality - are you trendy, eclectic, or refined? If you're not sure or if it depends on your mood, try something basic to start with: a choker with a single stone for example. Consider a neutral colour (white, ivory, grey/silver or black) since it can be worn with many different coloured outfits and still look great.  Cameos are popular right now (actually they never really went out of style - women have been wearing them for centuries), and now come in a rainbow of colours. They look especially romantic with wedding gowns.

                    
velvet with cameo                                            lace with cameo

"But I'm too old to wear a choker".  Says who? I mentioned that cameo chokers have been worn for centuries. The thousands upon thousands of women of ALL ages wearing them in vintage photographs and paintings throughout the ages couldn't possibly be wrong!

What To Look For

Price
Retail prices in stores can run from $.99 USD up to over $80 USD.  Why the big range?  Some are hand-crafted by artisans, some are mass-produced machine-made items, and some are production-made in third-world countries with inferior quality components.  Before you buy, check how it is made (artisan hand-crafted, made in China, designer label, genuine antique, etc.).  If the price is really low, usually it is not very high quality - but with auctions this is not always so.  On eBay, prices often start VERY low to attract bidders.  So how do you know what you are going to get?  Look for a seller who gives you details in their listing (I have given you some tips on what to look for below).  A good quality brand new fabric choker usually runs between $12 - $30 USD. I personally wouldn't recommend spending more than $30 unless the choker is 1.) a genuine antique, 2.) is a designer label, or 3.) it is very elaborate with semi-precious stones or crystal, and no plastic parts.

venise lace with rhinestones

Basic Construction and Quality
Generally there is greater quality control with professionally hand-crafted items, since the artisan inspects each one for flaws. Since their reputation as a craftsperson is at stake, they are more likely to ensure it is very well constructed. Also, the materials play an important role: French and Swiss-made velvet are among the highest quality and are usually softest against the skin. Double-faced satin has a nicer texture than single-faced, and tends to be more durable.  Lace varies a great deal. An open-weave lace such as Battenburg, venise/guipure or crocheted lace looks delicate but is usually quite strong. However any lace which does not have a fine visible "mesh" binding itself together could possibly stretch out with wear, and not stretch back (see "Tips For Wear & Care" below). Organza/organdy ribbon (that pretty, transparent, shiny stuff) can easily snag - so be careful when storing these chokers.  

layered organza with cat's eye

Finishing
A ribbon choker with metal** bars ("crimps") at the very ends of the ribbon is the most durable: the metal ends keep the ribbon rigid so it won't crumple at the back, keep the ribbon ends from fraying, and give the choker a professionally finished look. An S-hook type clasp may be easier to use than a lobster-claw shaped clasp (which has a springy catch) if you have to take the choker on and off by yourself frequently, or if you have large fingers. I make both types of clasp available, however if you have a preference you may wish to ask the seller.

**Many metal choker components are nickel plated (since it is inexpensive and very durable).  Nickel allergies are common, although most people can wear it for a few hours without problems. However if you are sensitive, it is best to ask the seller if they have used any nickel components just to be on the safe side.  Incidentally, my choker hardware can be upgraded to sterling silver for a small fee (see any of my choker listings for details).

back view of choker with metal crimps

Wearing Your Choker

Colour and Ribbon/Fabric Width - Optical Illusion
Contrary to what you might think, narrower widths (under 1 1/4" or 3.2cm) tend to look more flattering on shorter, heavier necks than wider ribbons, because they allow more skin to show and make the neck appear longer and slimmer (think: proportion). Consider a dark neutral or muted/pastel colour (grey, dark brown, deep burgundy, black - or ivory, dusty blue, antique rose pink, pale peach, light moss green, etc.) over a vivid colour (lipstick red, neon pink, lime green, electric blue, lemon yellow, bright white). Here's why: bright vivid colours draw the eye and often create the illusion that things are wider or larger than they really are - so a shorter, heavier neck may look exaggerated. Also, V-shaped chokers (such as fancy venise lace collars or narrow chokers danging pendants) are also very flattering because the V-shape helps to make the neck look longer. 

If you have a long, slender neck, a wider ribbon (over 3/4" or 19mm) is ideal in just about any colour, although very narrow ribbons in very strong colours won't look out of proportion either. Overall though, long thin necks seem to look their best with very dark and vivid colours (emerald green, lipstick red, jet black, rich bronze, bright purple, hot pink, etc.) in larger widths.

Size/Tightness
You need to measure your neck accurately since most chokers are designed to fit snug against the skin. Use a dressmaker's measuring tape or a piece of string which you can mark off and then measure while flat. Just measure tightly enough so the tape or string doesn't slip. Look for a choker that can be adjusted to fit your size or custom sized for you, to be on the safe side. When you put the choker on, it should be quite tight but you should still be able to slip your finger between the ribbon and your neck without too much difficulty. A good test to see if you are wearing it tight enough is to try to rotate it around your neck. If you can still move it but it takes a bit of effort, you are probably wearing it correctly. The choker should not sag unless it is suspending a very large pendant (making a nice V shape close to the neck).

velvet with rhinestone pendant

Tips For Wear & Care

• Putting It On:  While facing a mirror, attach the clasp at the front so you can see what you are doing. As you rotate the clasp to the back, you will be able to tell if you are wearing it correctly: if you can move it very easily, it is probably too loose.  It should take a little effort, unless you are wearing a choker designed to dangle a pendant which can usually be worn more loosely if desired. 
• Wrinkles In Satin and Velvet:  Satin chokers can be pressed using the lowest steam setting (always iron from the back).  Do not let the iron touch any metal or glued components.  Velvet chokers can be steamed: if you don't own a steamer, place the choker on your ironing board.  Set your iron to the lowest steam setting and hover over the velvet, making several slow passes, avoiding metal pieces and glued components.  Gently tug on it for 10 seconds or so until it cools.  If there are any "crushed" spots, brush the velvet gently back and forth with your finger while it is still warm.
• Lace Rejuvination: Most crocheted, venise/guipure and Battenburg(Belgian) lace chokers which have stretched out can be revitalized with a mist of warm water.  Place the choker face down on a towel, and cover any exposed metal areas.  Mist lightly with a spray bottle until damp, and gently tug on any wrinkled areas.  Remove from the towel and leave somewhere warm to dry flat (don't pull on it horizontally or you will stretch out the length).  Chokers made from flat lace can be ironed on the lowest steam setting.
• Cleaning: I use colour-fast and washable fabrics, but it still requires care. Cleaning should be a last resort since you risk making worn marks, weakening glued components and damaging metal parts - don't do it until absolutely necessary. Never "scrub" - just dip a cloth in very diluted mild detergent (type for lingerie/delicates), dab gently and allow to dry flat. To get rid of odours, mist the back with fabric refresher spray (eg. Febreze). If that doesn't help, fill a sink with cold water and a capful of mild detergent. Drop the choker in, swish back and forth and leave it to soak for 10 minutes. Rinse carefully under a cold tap and allow to dry flat face-up on a towel. DO NOT tug on the choker while soaking wet! The fabric at the ends will have softened and could become loose where the metal parts attach if pulled on. Allow to dry completely, then if it needs some re-shaping or ironing follow the instructions above.
• Storage: If you are rough with your jewelry, even the most sturdy pieces can scratch, snag, or break - avoid casually tossing your choker in your purse or jewelry box. Fold neatly and put in a plastic bag (I usually ship chokers in re-sealable bags - keep them!) and store flat.
• Metal Allergies? I have been told by allergy sufferers that painting the backs of metal parts with clear nail varnish prevents irritation. Brilliant! However I offer an upgrade to sterling silver on my choker ends/clasps/chains, consider doing this if you have sensitive skin and can tolerate precious metals.
• Plain and Simple: A plain velvet, satin or lace choker can be worn alone, or you can pin whatever you like on it as your style and mood changes - a silk rose, a favorite brooch, it's up to you! However, satin and organdy/organza chokers will show holes where your pin has been, so once you pin something to it you will always need to cover that area to hide the holes.

                   
lace with crystal beads                                           plain satin          

About The Author

Art of Adornment (eBay Member Since 2001)
I am a 39-year old artist and fashion accessories designer from Vancouver, Canada.  My designs are inspired by Victorian Gothic fashion and many are sold as one-of-a-kind and limited edition items in my Ebay Store.  See my About Me page for more info on me and the wonderful things I make.

Elaine Foster "Valerian"