Does it sometimes seem like everything listed in the Vintage Womens Clothing categories on Ebay are XS or S?  They're not! This guide will make it easier for you find the real deal here on Ebay, not just in size, but in quality!

If you do come across an XL or (gasp!) an XXL, it  often turns out to be a modern size 12-14.  Excuse me, but where I come from, folks, that is not an XXL.  This guide is meant for the buyer who wants to wear the clothes, not display them.

The Major Differences Between Plus Size Vintage and Contemporary Clothing

Every few decades, clothing manufacturers change the standardized sizing of womens' ready-to-wear.  In a 1930s movie, Ginger Rogers announces,  "I'm a size 12!"  Today, her slender figure would probably closer to a 6 or an 8.  (Thank heaven they didn't know from size 0 back then.)

Likewise, a Vintage size 20 is today approximately a modern size 16.  As we larger ladies know, not only is larger size vintage hard to find, today's woman is generally taller, heavier, and more broadly built than yesterday's woman, and especially the day before yesterday's woman.

Many plus sized women wore their clothes until the clothes practically fell apart, one of the reasons plus sized vintage is so hard to find. 

And we don't torture our bodies into unnatural shapes with girdles, waist cinchers, bullet bras, or corsets (unless we want to).  If the measurements in vintage dresses seem utterly baffling to you, remember that it was only in the 1960s that women began to forgo confining undergarments.  Marilyn Monroe was thought to be low-class because...she didn't wear a girdle.

But you don't have to settle.  You just have to look a bit harder than other shoppers.  Isn't that always the way?

Getting The Right Vintage Fit for You

Take me, for example.  I am 5 feet 10 inches tall, busty, long-waisted, with broad shoulders, long arms and what is known as a "barrel chest." In fact, I am built like my father, except for the busty part.  Often the waists are too short for me if it's a dress with a fitted waistline.  I have no problem fitting into the BOTTOM half of larger dresses or suits, it's the tops!  Either the shoulders are too small, the sleeves are too tight, or the zipper won't close below the bust, even if it fits perfectly otherwise.  I can't suck in my ribcage!

So now I know what measurements to look for (more on that later), what questions to ask, and what styles are more likely to fit me. For instance, dolman, raglan, kimono or extended cap sleeves are a better bet than tight elbow-length or long sleeves.  If the dress has shoulder pads, I generally have to remove them.  Here I am, clowning around in a XXXXL caftan.

But what about you?

Find Out The Facts

Take a good long look at your figure, and what you want to emphasize and de-emphasize, just the way you would if buying new clothes at the mall (ugh).  It can be your bust, your legs, your booty, whatever.  You have to start by taking your measurements everywhere:

• Shoulder to shoulder
• Bust
• Waist
• Hips
• Inseam
• Shoulder to waist
• Waist to crotch
• Thigh width (if you plan to buy pants) 
• Armhole (for larger women)

If you're squeamish, have a good friend do it for you and write it all down.  The truth will set you free, especially if you don't want your dress to split open when you pull it on.  

Tip:   If you really cannot bear the idea of measuring yourself, then take several pieces of your favorite clothing, the pieces that fit you the best, and measure them.  Measure them lying flat, then double the measurements, using the guide above.  That will give you a better idea of what measurements to look for.

Be Realistic

If you are pear-shaped, you might not be able to pull off (or on) low-rise bell-bottom jeans, even if you find them in your size.  So if you love the 70s hippie look, buy modern jeans that fit properly, and invest in vintage tops and flowing embroidered dresses.  A broad-shouldered muscular woman will have problems finding wearable vintage tops, particularly in 30s and 50s fashions.  These tend to be tightly fitted through the shoulders. 

On the other hand, you can buy clothing from the 40s and the 80s, and remove the shoulder pads.  Or you can buy vintage skirts, pants, and swing coats, and pair them with modern "retro" type tops.  Armholes in 20s and 30s clothing tend to be cut smaller and higher than later styles.  And I cannot emphasize this enough: IF you are thick-waisted and determined to wear curvy fashions, your best initial investment is probably a good waist-cincher.  I have several, myself, from Spanx to a serious corset. to wear under my "bombshell" dresses.  Like my forebears, I sometimes have to suffer a little to be beautiful!

In some cases, there is enough fabric in the seams to let the garment out or lengthen it.  You can ask the seller to provide pictures of the inner seams if you  want to go this route.

What To Expect of Vintage Clothing

Remember that all vintage, whether in Mint Condition or Fair Condition, is not new.  "New" Clothing listed in the Vintage Categories is fraud, even if it is in the "style" of the period.  Those items should be listed under "Reproductions." In that case you may not be dealing with an honest seller.

Buying real vintage means you have to deal with the occasional stain, rip, and missing buttons.  Unless it's a sturdy wool jacket or something of that nature, you will not be able to wear it every day.  Old fabrics are more fragile, and the condition of the garment you buy is extremely important.  It's best often to wear a washable layer underneath.  Fragile clothing should be avoided, because it will not survive one wearing.  By "fragile" I mean condition, not delicacy or laciness.  There is usually a condition chart on the listing that has been standardized for most Ebay sellers.  Since you now know your measurements, always look for a few inches of wiggle room, rather than risking a tear in your new 1940s dress!

 Look for the styles that make you gasp: "I want!".  Because whatever it is, it's somewhere on Ebay!  

Cultivate a great relationship with your professional cleaner.  MAKE SURE she knows how to clean vintage clothing!  Vintage silks often "shatter" when cleaned, because the modern cleaning process takes away the fibers that hold it together.  If she doesn't know how, ask around (including on the Vintage Clothing Discussion Board) for a cleaner in your area.   That board also has many invaluable tips for how to clean vintage clothing, something we sellers spend a great deal of time doing before we bring it to you!

If you sew, you can repair much clothing unless it's too far gone.  But even if it's wrecked, you can still buy it as a "study piece"and make a pattern from it.

HOW TO BUY VINTAGE CLOTHING ON EBAY

At last we get to the heart of the matter...how do you choose from all of those vintage sellers?  By now you've gotten a start on what era you want to buy and wear, what makes you feel good.

What To Look For In The Title!

A competent vintage plus size seller will not only have XL or XXL in the title, but also the bust measurement.  Sometimes the bust and waist measurement (depending on if they can make it fit).  It looks like this: B48.  Or B50.  Or whatever.  The important thing for you to know is what bust measurement will fit you comfortably.  I never buy anything under a B44, but that's just me.  Also, the style of dress and the photo can give you an idea of the cut.  The above photos shows a variety of outfits on my mannequin Bodicea.  In the industry, she is what is known as a "plus size" mannequin, or a full-figured size 16.  She is six feet tall, and her measurements are approximately 43-32-45.  Some pieces have to be clipped back to fit her.  Sometimes I do my own modeling as well, since I'm larger than Bodicea.

What To Look For In The Listing!

Read the listing very carefully.  All honest sellers disclose condition issues in their listings, whether large or small.  Look at the measurements...is the XL a 12 or a 16?  Is the bust 36 inches or 46 inches?  Ask as many questions as you need to, because as the saying goes, the only stupid question is the unasked question (just make sure it isn't answered in the listing first!).  Is the garment categorized in the right era?  Are there lots of good, clear photographs? 

Tip: read the seller's feedback, and note how many of the winning buyers have low feedback numbers or high feedback numbers.  High feedback buyer numbers can mean that experts are buying these clothes.  That's a good indication of an excellent seller. (A note: this system works best with longtime sellers, not sellers starting out.)

But remember, Ebay sellers are individuals or small companies, not Nordstrom's.  Sometimes they make mistakes or forget something important.  But also, they spend hours, usually by themselves, steaming, cleaning, photographing and listing the pieces you see.

The really good stuff is going to cost money.  I hate to put it that way, but if you are looking for the ultimate cashmere coat, shelf-bust evening gown, or 1920s velvet dress, it is best to think of this as "investment dressing."  Just as you would if you were buying a brand-new fur coat!   I rarely sell extremely expensive clothing.  But there are sellers on Ebay who sell high end plus size vintage, and it is beautiful.  Be prepared to shell out over $100 and up.  If it makes you feel better, the higher-end clothing costs a lot for the skinnier people, too!

You can also find wonderful vintage clothing in lower price brackets.  It just takes a bit of sleuthing.

Happy shopping!  And remember, BIG GALS RULE!

copyright Elisa DeCarlo - use of this material is forbidden without written permission