Hollyhocks Personal Experience Patricia Russell 2007-2008 Over 60 varieties have been established from white to black and a multitude of colors in between. Some are very tall over 6 feet and the miniature varieties 1-2 feet. After trading and collecting from around the world it is safe to say we have about 80+ different (Nigra, Black Watchman, Donkerhardt, Indian Summer, Chater’s Doubles, King Henry VIII, Malva Zebrinia, White, Yellow, Peach, Burgundy, Red & others), but not all varieties will grow in our zone. They are Annuals, Biennials & Perennials. They all are pretty much "self seeding". What this means is each plan produces many seeds an by simply tossing them on the ground, they propagate by themselves. If you look closely at a flower, after it blooms as it shrivels and falls away a circular seed pod is left, once it is dry it will turn beige and will be filled with seeds. There are anywhere from 9-35 seeds inside each pod. Each stock has a large number of blossoms. So, in reality, you will end up with thousands of seeds for saving, replanting, trading or even selling. I mention tall varieties & miniature, in my experience of propagating indoors. Some of the miniatures I found to be a little more temperamental or more of a challenge to grow than, tall varieties. Just have fun with them! Hydrogen Peroxide 3% to 8% - (for faster seed germination) that little brown bottle we find in the grocery store or in pharmacy. If you have found in the past that some seeds are a little more stubborn sprouting then others, try this. Take a napkin, a few of your dry fresh seeds, 3% hydrogen peroxide an a small container with a lid. Place seeds inside the napkin, put napkin inside your small container, pour hydrogen peroxide covering them "full strength" covering napkin and all the seeds. Cover the container, put in a dark place and let it set 48-72 hours. If you check inside the container periodically you may find the seeds are bubbling. This is normal it’s stimulating their growth. Sometimes it may take a little longer, if you don't see any little sprouts don't panic give them a more time. What you’ll see are little white curved sprouts coming from them, that's what you want. If you‘ve some old seeds and are just testing to see if you can get them to sprout and they don't after a few days, this process may not work for them nor any other. Once they have little tiny sprouts then place them in a sealed baggie without the hydrogen peroxide. Same process put them away for a day or so and then check their progress. Once your seeds sprout that will give them a good start. Then you can transfer them into some dirt. A couple things I found about propagating indoors in containers, the seeds don't like rocks or objects in their growing medium. So, using peat pods, or trays with covered domes and soil, make sure your soil is fine an only cover them 1/8th inch with soil. Personally I've found "organic" soil to work best, but you choose. Remember is your propagating the seeds are happiest if they are moist, not soggy drowning in water. We do start new ones in our hydroponic garden before putting outside. But, you can start them outdoors, you decide. Transplanting - When hollyhocks are small they do not want to be their roots to be disturbed so wait till they have at least three leaves before changing to a larger container size. When starting seedlings inside, until they’re strong enough before putting outside, if the first sprout leaf makes a very tall stock and its container, you can add dirt around to support it until it's large enough to transfer. Once a plant is a year old they’ll transplant if you want to move them to a new location just remember they don’t like to have their roots disturbed as some go 30” into the ground. Just best not to, but be warned if you transplant and it dies don’t cry (sometimes transplanting will make them wilt, but don’t give up, just water and keep hoping) Rusts - No.... I’m not talking about water & metal what happens...I'm talking about the very common disease that plagues hollyhocks (and there are many kinds of rust not just one). You’ll find many resources on-line, they’re free to read about Rust and how to prevent or to keep it under control. I don't recommend any product. It is certainly your choice what you use if you use any chemicals on your hollyhocks at all. I cut off any leaf that looks like "rust" immediately and dispose of it & in addition to that I spray a product called "Polysul Summer & Dormant Spay Concentrate" it is “Lime-Sulfur Fungicide”, manufacture - Lilly Miller Brands. Again, you need to decide if you want to use chemicals. Rust is a fungus that is airborne that will spread to other plants if leaves are close or touching. Never put your leaves if they are infected with Rust in your compost pile. If you do, then you’ll be spreading "Rust" to where ever you use your compost. Insect Control - Yes, hollyhock leaves are tasty to bugs. I don't like using pesticides. So, I choose to make my own spray to prevent their infestations. My Recipe - In a blender..after removing skin I chop 1 whole Onion (yellow/white); + 2 tblsp red powdered Cayenne Pepper; + 3 tablespoons powdered garlic OR eight peeled fresh cloves of Garlic + 5 cups water. Puree mixture, and pour into bowl an cover. Let set, 24 hours. This gives the liquid time to absorb all the flavors. It’ll smell bad, it's supposed to so don't worry about it. (if the smell bothers you..place in a cupboard or closet where it will not be disturbed) OR If the smell bothers you refrigerate it. Remove contents pouring into a strainer with the napkin so you filter the chunks an only have the liquid for your spray-pour liquid into a sprayer. That's what I do. If you don't use it all store it in the refrigerator. I spray approximately once a week or so. (Again, if you choose not to use anything on your holly’s that is totally your choice). Remember when they are done blooming and you have harvested the seed pods cut them all the way to the ground.