Since I started helping identify Real Game Dated cards. (There is a guide for just "what is or is not a Real 97/98 Game Dated Parallel, in my guides section)  

More and more people come and ask me what this term is or that. So until someone else comes along with a guide better than this? Here we go, also please understand by no means is this any sort of an official ebay guide to terms! (Please keep the suggestions coming!)

I will add to this as more suggestions come in. These are the ones I get asked about the most:

Most Jersey cards contain Swatches. However many here on ebay try & say they have a more rare PATCH card. Some make an honest mistake, others are using the keyword search to their advantage. Always check the fine print!

Jumbo, Oversized = 4"x 6" or greater in overall size

Tall Boys = 3"Tall x 2" wide cards. Fleer made some in the 90's, & Parkhurst in the 50's.

AU = Autographed

RC = Rookie Card (However, there is endless debate on what is or is not a real Rookie)

IB = Ice Blue Parallel

HG = High Gloss Parallel for Upper Deck also HG = Holographic -Gold Parallel for Pacific

EI = Electric Ice Parallel

Exl = Exclusives Parallel (Pacific also had a brand called Exclusives) And there are a few types of Exclusives parallels. Tier-1 ###/100, Tier-2 Gold ##/25.

Exp = Exposure Parallel (Donruss Limited Series)

REF = Refractor

Red = This one is tough, it can mean a Red version, Red ink, Red swatch, or a REDEMPTION.

A/P = Artist Proof

MP or M/P = Master Photo

Pinnacle MINT = Is actually a brand from the 1996/97-1997/98 Series. Each card pack had a coin in it. But finding reliable data on these series is tough. Becketts seems to forget this was a brand, and not just a term referring to card condition! (In my guides area, is a related guide on what is or is not a GOLD coin from those same series of cards/coins)

Quad = Another tough one. Heads-Up has a Quad Jersey,   Black Diamond has the Quadruple Diamonds, there are several brands with Quad signatures. So like the "Red" above there are multiple meanings.

Triple = Same as the "Red & Quad". Except there are many more variations of the Triple out there. Far to many to list. Triple Diamond, Triple Threads, Trilogy...

1st = First Day Issue Parallel  -also- 1st, First Star Parallel (UD MVP)

HOF = Hall of Fame

HOFB = Hall of Fame Bound

ROY = Rookie Of the Year

Don = Donruss (Usually)

BAP = Be A Player (See next entry) It has been both a Brand, and a company

ITG = In The Game, Inc. (Formerly Be A Player as a company not a brand)

OPC = O-Pee-Chee (A Topps Brand, Canadian Version)

UD = Upper Deck

SP = Short Print, though Upper Deck does have several brands UD SP, SPx, SP Authentic, SPGU = SP Game Used etc. But something to note here. Many out there use SP to try and make a buyer think its a Short Print. So always be sure you check before assuming they are right!

CAN = Canadian In many cases the Canadian version is slightly different than the US version Sometimes its a very small detail, other times its something easy to spot.

Stamp = Usually this refers to a "Show Stamped" card. However, Donruss Priority did have a themed set with Postcards and actual stamps.

Some other shortcuts emailed to me recently:

Jsy = Jersey (Swatch)

#-Col = # of Colors visible on the swatch

BV$ = Book Value. Most consider Becketts the #1 authority for this type of Quote.

Many of these are created out of necessity since Ebay titles are limited for space:

BAP SS = Be A Player Signature Series

BAP MEM = Be A Player Memorabilia

BAP Ult = Be A Player Ultimate Memorabilia

Also due to Space limitations some leave out a Brand name like Pacific. i.e: Dynagon, Paramount, Revolution, Crown Royale.

These are also actually under the Pacific label:

PS : Private Stock

PSR : Private Stock Reserve

PS Tit : Private Stock Titanium

Ok Book values! I have gotten several questions about these.

Now understand I have nothing to do with Becketts or any of the companies that list values. I am a collector just like everyone else. But I have been doing this for a while, so maybe its just that I pay attention.

A book value is a guide, and thats it. Very often on ebay you will see cards or collectibles go far above a book value guide. And more often below. Lets face it, everyone on ebay is here to get a good deal. But its really about supply and demand. And if you pay attention to this hobby, quite often the book value doesnt equate to the actual supply. And thats the real trick. Yes a book value might be $50. But if there are none around, and a card is 10 years old. Then its very likely a collector will not pay attention to the book value. So that card may sell for $100. or more!

The real trick to this hobby is paying attention. So just remember a book value is not to be taken as an absolute. Its just a guide, and quite often especially in sportscards. Many people dont even look up what they are selling, or buying. So in short, its up to you to know what your buying, and what YOU are prepared to pay for it!

As I said, I will add to this till someone else comes along with a better guide. The biggest thing to understand is allot of shorthand is invloved with each sport, and each collector. So all of these terms are not Universal. You should always check the items entire description, and of course ask any questions of the seller BEFORE you place a bid! But also keep in mind, even the Dealers out there arent right all of the time. So you may want to check things with more than one source before you assume anything. Or before you decide to bid on something that sounds just to good to be true!

pat-alaska