AB is the abbreviation for a special finish which was applied to rhinestones and beads in the early 1950's to make them more radiant. The finish was given the celestial name Aurora Borealis, taken from the phenomena in the northern skies known as the Northern Lights. The same shimmering rainbows of color can also be seen radiating from a glass bead or rhinestone that has been treated with this now famous coating.

During the early decades of the 1900's, in the era of Paris couture, Swarovski's exclusive mechanical process of cutting and polishing crystal had a dramatic effect on design. The fashion world and crystal experts began a mutually creative cooperation.

In the mid 1950's the designer Christian Dior turned to Manfred Swarovski, grandson of the founder, when he was looking for a new expression for crystal and jewelry to complement his New Look--exquisitely feminine clothes for the new woman of a new era. Where once chatons and fancy stones were popular suddenly cut beads became more popular.

It was a scientific process developed for Swarovski's optical mechanisms that sparked the idea for a crystal stone: a stone that reminded one of 18th-century splendor with iridescent colors so like candlelight. Under the direction of Dr. H. Schmied, technicians had invented a blue metallic coating for optical lenses. Manfred saw the stunning ornamental effect and began to apply it to his stones. He experimented with the vaporization of metal in a vacuum, coating the lower facets of each stone with a micro-thin metal sheet. The results dramatic filling the stone to which it was applied with electrically charged flashes of rainbow like colors. At first only the wealthy could afford the jewelry made with the stones and beads by the designers, but it was licensed for use by manufacturers such as Corocraft for their Vendome line. Later more and more plastic beads crept in and jewelry became cheaper. The glory of Aurora Borealis slowly faded and, by the mid-1960's, it had disappeared. AB jewelry is in ascendancy once more, but those who would like to collect and wear the quality pieces will be looking for those from the 1950's. 

To this day, the company guards the processes it developed and demands the highest quality production of its crystals.

Aurora Borealis costume jewelry delighted the women of the 1950's, just as it does today. The lovely stones fashioned into necklaces, bracelets, earrings, pins and brooches picked up and radiated the color of the clothes on which they were worn. My own mother received her first necklace and earring set from my father in the early 1960's. To my then six-year-old eyes, they were the most brilliant diamonds in the world.

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