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Want to know what to wear for your Regency reproduction? A Victorian Ball? A Jane Austen gathering? Here are some basics on the periods and the styles...
Directoire (1795-1799) & pre-16th century
In the 18th century the jabot took over, with the appearance of many ruffles, lace and billowing shirt-fronts. The jabots buttoned at the back of the neck.
The cravat achieved the height of fashion in the early 19th century in France and England. The regency gentleman favored unadorned and immaculate linens, silks, etc. Collars grew higher at the turn of the 19th century, and pointed edges around the chin and cheeks became fashionable. Cravats were wrapped tightly around the neck, ending in bows of various size and length. Cravats in this period were sometimes as much as a foot high, with the points of the collars rising half-way up the face.
Victorian (1837-1901) & Romantic (Late 1800s)
Cravats grew more casual again and gradually shrank into smaller bows as the century progressed. Collars became lower. The Victorian gentleman had a variety of neckwear styles to choose from. Not only did ties become more colorful, and in a range of sizes and fabrics, but there were several methods used for tying them on. The modern method of tying ties was about he only style not in use yet. Most ties, of any style, were 2-3 inches wide and crafted of the finest fabrics a gentleman could afford. Fabrics included silks, satins, finely woven & polished cottons, and other silky textured fabrics. High collars were not fashionable until the 1860's, so variations of the bow tie were the most common fashion worn with turned down collars.
Still have questions? Email me or visit my store:Gentleman's Jabot STORE
Of note: The term 'tie' in English derives from 'to tie a cravat' and represents in fact one way of tying the neckwear, which developed from the original cravat. A cravat is a scarf or band of fabric worn around the neck as a tie. A jabot is a cravat with lace, or a lace stock (a button-up lace cravat).
Directoire (1795-1799) & pre-16th century
In the 18th century the jabot took over, with the appearance of many ruffles, lace and billowing shirt-fronts. The jabots buttoned at the back of the neck.RECOMMEND: Lots of lace in a jabot, lace cuffs. Flamboyant styles.
Empire & Regency (1800-1820)
Note: Jane Austen (1800-1837)
The cravat achieved the height of fashion in the early 19th century in France and England. The regency gentleman favored unadorned and immaculate linens, silks, etc. Collars grew higher at the turn of the 19th century, and pointed edges around the chin and cheeks became fashionable. Cravats were wrapped tightly around the neck, ending in bows of various size and length. Cravats in this period were sometimes as much as a foot high, with the points of the collars rising half-way up the face.
RECOMMEND: Silks, taffeta silks, cotton, linen, light brocades :: 4-6 inches wide, 50-100 inches long (depends on desired style and weight of fabric)
Victorian (1837-1901) & Romantic (Late 1800s)
Cravats grew more casual again and gradually shrank into smaller bows as the century progressed. Collars became lower. The Victorian gentleman had a variety of neckwear styles to choose from. Not only did ties become more colorful, and in a range of sizes and fabrics, but there were several methods used for tying them on. The modern method of tying ties was about he only style not in use yet. Most ties, of any style, were 2-3 inches wide and crafted of the finest fabrics a gentleman could afford. Fabrics included silks, satins, finely woven & polished cottons, and other silky textured fabrics. High collars were not fashionable until the 1860's, so variations of the bow tie were the most common fashion worn with turned down collars.RECOMMENDED: Silks, satins, taffeta, poly-satin/silk blends :: 2-3 inches in width, various colors
Civil War (1848-1877)
Civil war era ties were not the colorful accessory they are today, with black as the standard color for neckwear. White and drab colors that were also complimentary to the gentleman's wardrobe were also worn. Lace jabots are also found in this era for the 'official' gentlemen.RECOMMENDED: Sober colored cravats, ascots of same no more than 3-4 inches wide, shorter length, lace jabots.
Still have questions? Email me or visit my store:Gentleman's Jabot STORE
Guide created: 11/29/06 (updated 06/29/08)
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