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Quality Leather- How do I know?
How many times have we seen the advertisement claiming “Genuine leather” Or “Quality Leather”. Just what is Genuine Leather, or Quality Leather, how do I know I didn't get ripped off? I often get questions at Hot Stuff Leather and Lace about the quality of the leather we have, and if it real leather, or is it real patent leather. I will discuss the difference between Patent Leather, Vinyl, and PVC at the end of this article.
First, what is leather? Leather, simply stated, is the skin of an animal. So as long as the material is made from the skin of an animal, they can claim “Genuine Leather”. Quality leather is a different story. When you finish reading this, you will be able to look at a leather garment and tell immediately if it is quality or not.
You may or may not have noticed that the flea markets, grocery stores, drug stores, and warehouse department stores have been selling the “Genuine Leather” Coats, Jackets, backpacks and luggage. They are of a patchwork design, and usually lined. These are typically made of lambskin leather and being sold for unreal cheap prices. There is nothing wrong with lambskin leather. In fact it is the leather of choice for any leather that is worn close to the skin. The lining too is a benefit if it is used for comfort or insulation. The patchwork design is the first indication that this is poor quality leather. The patchwork design is because they swept the scraps off the floor from the manufacture of other garments, fed them through a machine to sew the scraps together, created another sheet of leather and made more garments. The leather itself could made of various grades.
Let's talk about grades of leather. There are 3 primary grades of leather:
Grade 1 or “full-Grain” clear, supple, and clean, is consistent in color, has the highest yield of over 90% and the surface is smoothest.
Grade 2 is less consistent in color, has a yield of 78% and the surface is slightly imperfect.
Grade 3 is a blotchy and very inconsistent in color, has a yield of 40% and the surface is very imperfect and will feel stiff, partly from the excessive coating needed to hide imperfections.
These grades are standard no mater what type of animal the leather came from. There are a lot of different types of animals that are used for leather. Everything from lamb to cow, and alligator to Ostrich. The two most popular for use in garments are lamb and cow. For the sake of this article we will discuss these two.
LAMBSKIN
The softest, thinnest, most supple skin. A Buttery texture and finely grained. Stretches well and tends to reshape after wearing - has a type of memory. Drapes well, flows, and has good movement - very form fitting.
Higher-end leather-wear. Classy and more fashionable look.
LAMB TOUCH COW or COW NAPPA
Thin, Soft and supple - close in look and feel to lamb but is not lamb. A Smoother finish and finer texture to cow hide. Lightweight - has good movement and draping ability.
Sportswear and outerwear. Dressed-up, fashionable look. Coats skirts, pants, and vests.
COW HIDE
Very tough wearing and durable. Heaviest of the cowhides. Very noticeable texture skin and grainy.
Mostly outerwear - especially jackets. Weekend casual, ready-to-wear.
Ok, now we know the different grades, and types of leather, how do we know we got the good stuff? First, use your eyes. A very good way to tell if you’re purchasing a garment of HIGH-quality leather is to look at the seams and needle marks. If they seem to be a different color than the garment itself this could mean that the garment is dyed on the surface only – surface-dyed as opposed to aniline-dyed leather (dyed on both sides).
Surface-dyed leather is much different to aniline-dyed leather because surface-dying is like adding a coat of paint to wood. It merely covers up the wood’s natural surface and defects. Aniline-dyed leather is like adding varnish to wood, varnish allows the woods natural beauty to shine through by penetrating the surface instead of covering it up. The natural beauty of high-quality leather is visible through a sheer, rich aniline dye.
Check the items for overall color and craftsmanship. While all skins contain some natural marks, there should not be any large unsightly blemishes on the piece you are inspecting. A good manufacturer of leather apparel will not use leather of 2nd or 3rd grade.
Next, use your nose. The garment should smell like leather, not chemicals. And while we are on the subject of chemicals, you want leather that has not been treated with Azo Dye. Azo Dye is toxic and has been linked to many skin reactions.
And lastly, feel it. Is it soft to the touch, is it smooth. It should be free of any bumps and it should flex easily. It should not be stiff and hard to bend.
And now about Patent Leather, Vinyl, and PVC:
It is surprising to me how many people do not know that there is a difference. In fact I have had to list my patent leather as vinyl and PVC just so that our listings will show in the search. First big difference is that Patent Leather is actually made from leather, vinyl and PVC are not.
We at Hot Stuff Leather and Lace love an educated Customer because we offer Patent Leather from Allure Leather, as well as vinyl from Elegant Moments two of the best design houses available.
History
The process originated with the high laquering of leather, called Japanning. In more modern times, Seth Boyden is credited for perfecting the process of creating patent leather in 1818, thus called because the process once was patented. . Back then, a linseed coating was bonded to the leather to create a high gloass finish. Today, its typically a petroluem product that is bonded. This is not to be confused with poromeric imitation leather
Poromeric Imitation Leatheris what a lot of folks refer to as "patent leather" when actually it isn't. It has a high glossy finish and is a petroleum product or a vinyl. Because of the material, color can be more consistent in the manufacturing process and a greater flexibility produces every color of the rainbow and then some. The vinyl is typically backed with polyester.
The first poromeric leather was released in 1964. It was easily cleanable, but stiff and not breathable, which made it ideal for structured handbags, but not so ideal for shoes. DuPont ceased producing of it in 1971. There are other patented names of glossy substitutes such as Clarino from Japan.
PVC. Actually, PVC is polyvinyl chloride. Its an ingredient in what makes "PVC vinyl" but not the end product. As this is the common term in clothing and accessories and not a chemistry lesson, we will go with "PVC." PVC vinyl used in handbags, belts, and other accessories. It is much more flexible than poromerics, thus making it more versatile and more practical for some uses. It is commonly used in accessories, such as belts, trim, some handbags such as tote bags, aprons, and some raingear. The material also has a following in the boudoir and fetish markets.
How to identify genuine patent leather.
There is just not "one" definitive answer...but here are some clues...
This may help whether you have an item in your hands, or are shopping online.
1) Items may be stamped "genuine leather" or "genuine patent leather." However, there are times when the gold stamped lettering fade, labels tear, or are seperated.
2) When a genuine item gets damaged at the corners, it will behave as leather does and you will feel leather or a sueded edge depending on how serious the damage is. On poromeric it is likely to tear and you may see or feel a backing.
3) Look for higher end hardware, and higher end linings. Items with leather or sueded leather linings are always genuine. Occasionally they may have satin or faille. Vinyl linings indicate PVC. PVC can have fabric linings as well, but never leather. Poromeric typically havesatin weave fabrics, polyester, or felt, but makers sometimes get creative. But never leather.
4) Color. Traditional, genuine patent leather doesn't come in the wide range of colors poromeric leather comes in. Look for dark and traditional colors such as black, brown, red, navy, and the occasional jewel tone with black being the most common and the others rarer. Pastels would be a rarity, or they would be poromeric as it is difficult to dye leather lighter than its natural color unless it goes through further manipulation or treatment. PVC can also come in just about any color.
5) Date. The older an item (pre mid 60s) the more likely it is to be genuine patent leather. But it doesn't mean it is.
6) Pin test. If you absolutely have to know, you can take a hot pin and gently and evenly poke a tiny hole in the leather. If the pin melts or goes through the top layer only, its leather. If it goes all the way through...its not. Not recommended unless you must, as it will damage the item.
In the market place.
It is true that "patent leather" has entered the colloquial dialect with accepted usage covering both actual patent leather, and any glossy vinyl that mimics it. It is not merely a matter of sellers shying away from what is accurate for fear of no one finding their items; most of the educated public does not differentiate themselves. It requires both the disclosure of the seller and the inquisitiveness and education of the buyer to make sure that what you see is what you get. If you do not think your item is genuine leather, please clarify in the listing by indicating as such.
Believe it or not, there are folks who prefer to look for poromeric or PVC for the color selection, or for the qualities of the material. Buzzwords such as "patent leather-like vinyl" will help steer potential shoppers to your listings, while also giving you the opportunity to educate and to clairfy that it is poromeric. "Wet Look" vinyl is a good way to describe PVC, and it is searched too! Searching "genuine patent leather" in descriptions will help narrow down the search if its leather you seek.
Now you know more about Leather, Patent Leather, Vinyl, and PVC than 90% of the shoppers today. We invite you to use your new knowledge at Hot Stuff Leather and Lace , and hope you have found our article useful.
The process originated with the high laquering of leather, called Japanning. In more modern times, Seth Boyden is credited for perfecting the process of creating patent leather in 1818, thus called because the process once was patented. . Back then, a linseed coating was bonded to the leather to create a high gloass finish. Today, its typically a petroluem product that is bonded. This is not to be confused with poromeric imitation leather
Poromeric Imitation Leatheris what a lot of folks refer to as "patent leather" when actually it isn't. It has a high glossy finish and is a petroleum product or a vinyl. Because of the material, color can be more consistent in the manufacturing process and a greater flexibility produces every color of the rainbow and then some. The vinyl is typically backed with polyester.
The first poromeric leather was released in 1964. It was easily cleanable, but stiff and not breathable, which made it ideal for structured handbags, but not so ideal for shoes. DuPont ceased producing of it in 1971. There are other patented names of glossy substitutes such as Clarino from Japan.
PVC. Actually, PVC is polyvinyl chloride. Its an ingredient in what makes "PVC vinyl" but not the end product. As this is the common term in clothing and accessories and not a chemistry lesson, we will go with "PVC." PVC vinyl used in handbags, belts, and other accessories. It is much more flexible than poromerics, thus making it more versatile and more practical for some uses. It is commonly used in accessories, such as belts, trim, some handbags such as tote bags, aprons, and some raingear. The material also has a following in the boudoir and fetish markets.
How to identify genuine patent leather.
There is just not "one" definitive answer...but here are some clues...
This may help whether you have an item in your hands, or are shopping online.
1) Items may be stamped "genuine leather" or "genuine patent leather." However, there are times when the gold stamped lettering fade, labels tear, or are seperated.
2) When a genuine item gets damaged at the corners, it will behave as leather does and you will feel leather or a sueded edge depending on how serious the damage is. On poromeric it is likely to tear and you may see or feel a backing.
3) Look for higher end hardware, and higher end linings. Items with leather or sueded leather linings are always genuine. Occasionally they may have satin or faille. Vinyl linings indicate PVC. PVC can have fabric linings as well, but never leather. Poromeric typically havesatin weave fabrics, polyester, or felt, but makers sometimes get creative. But never leather.
4) Color. Traditional, genuine patent leather doesn't come in the wide range of colors poromeric leather comes in. Look for dark and traditional colors such as black, brown, red, navy, and the occasional jewel tone with black being the most common and the others rarer. Pastels would be a rarity, or they would be poromeric as it is difficult to dye leather lighter than its natural color unless it goes through further manipulation or treatment. PVC can also come in just about any color.
5) Date. The older an item (pre mid 60s) the more likely it is to be genuine patent leather. But it doesn't mean it is.
6) Pin test. If you absolutely have to know, you can take a hot pin and gently and evenly poke a tiny hole in the leather. If the pin melts or goes through the top layer only, its leather. If it goes all the way through...its not. Not recommended unless you must, as it will damage the item.
In the market place.
It is true that "patent leather" has entered the colloquial dialect with accepted usage covering both actual patent leather, and any glossy vinyl that mimics it. It is not merely a matter of sellers shying away from what is accurate for fear of no one finding their items; most of the educated public does not differentiate themselves. It requires both the disclosure of the seller and the inquisitiveness and education of the buyer to make sure that what you see is what you get. If you do not think your item is genuine leather, please clarify in the listing by indicating as such.
Believe it or not, there are folks who prefer to look for poromeric or PVC for the color selection, or for the qualities of the material. Buzzwords such as "patent leather-like vinyl" will help steer potential shoppers to your listings, while also giving you the opportunity to educate and to clairfy that it is poromeric. "Wet Look" vinyl is a good way to describe PVC, and it is searched too! Searching "genuine patent leather" in descriptions will help narrow down the search if its leather you seek.
Now you know more about Leather, Patent Leather, Vinyl, and PVC than 90% of the shoppers today. We invite you to use your new knowledge at Hot Stuff Leather and Lace , and hope you have found our article useful.
Guide created: 10/02/06 (updated 10/27/09)
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