PURPOSE:

Some of the most enduring collectible items on eBay over the past years have been the hand carved wood perfume bottles from Hawaii.  For those who wish to know more abut them I offer the results of my own search for information and hope that those who know more may wish to contribute additions; or make corrections.

HISTORY OF HAWAIIAN PERFUME INDUSTRY:

Before discussing the bottles, it is important to say something about the beginnings of the perfume industry in Hawaii.

Before contact with Europeans, Hawaiians pounded Sandalwood bark powder into their tapa  garments.  This fragrant powder was not only used to scent their clothing, but the aromatic oil from the sandalwood was also used in medicines.

During the 1700's an American ship known as the Lady Washington arrived in Hawaii.  The ship's captain, Mr. Kendrick,  thought he detected the aroma of sandalwood while sitting before a fire one evening.  Upon further investigation, he discovered that the Hawaiian Islands were filled the sandalwood trees.  He realized that Asian merchants would pay premium prices for such a supply as they were only then believed to exist in India.  The trade in sandalwood lasted from 1790-1840.  Unfortunately it led to exploitation and enslavement of the islanders (even by their own king) to extract the wood and to general economic devastation when other pursuits were abandoned to concentrated on extracting the sandalwood trees.

During the 1800's the trade in sandalwood gave way to the whaling industry.  This time the "perfume" involved was the ambergris found in Sperm whales.  Ambergris, was a black, semi-liquid, foul-smelling substance found in the intestines of the whales formed by the eating of squid.  When the ambergris is exposed to air, it hardens and becomes fragrant with an aroma that has been described as smelling of a mixture of "seaweed, wood, and moss with sweet undertones".  The scent lasted a long time which made it a good base for perfume.  Apparently the whalers did not hunt whales so much in Hawaii but rather used the isolated islands as a good place to lay over during the winter season.

It was not until the early 1900's that a serious attempt was made to start a perfume industry in Hawaii using island flowers.  A shrub from tropical America known as klu or acacia farnesiana was cultivated in many tropical areas including Hawaii for its bark, gum, seed, and wood as both an ornamental shrub and to check erosion.   The fragrant orange flowers contain an essential oil that can be used as violet scent substitute.   Early experiments were made to transform the oil into a new perfume.  Some flowers were even dipped in coconut oil or cocoa butter and dried to form sachets.  However, the sharp thorns of the bush made it difficult to work with, and today the plant is considered an invasive weed in parts of Hawaii.

The first Hawaiian perfumes were not successfully produced until the 1930's .
According to one source [Firsts and Almost Firsts in Hawaii by Robert C. Schmitt] , the first perfumes made from Hawaiian flowers were introduced at Gump's Department Store in Waikiki in January of 1935.  The well known Gumps Store was based in San Francisco, but operated a branch store in Honolulu from 1929 to 1951 on Alakea Street.  Significantly, this store was next to the newly-opened Royal Hawaiian Hotel!

THE RISE IN DEMAND FOR HAWAIIAN SOUVENIRS

The Royal Hawaiian Hotel opened on February 1, 1927 and ushered in a new era of luxurious resort travel to Hawaii.  This hotel was conceived by the owners of the Matson Navigation Company.   Matson provided steamship travel to Hawaii for America's rich and famous.  The Royal Hawaiian Hotel was envisioned as the reception point for its passengers. 

The Matson Company promoted their 4 1/2 day cruise to Hawaii on its fleet of white ships with  advertising and promotional materials at an unprecedented level!  As soon as the Royal Hawaiian Hotel opened, a non-stop flood of tourists, statesmen, and movie stars poured into Hawaii.  The Hawaiian Tourist Industry was off with a bang!  Accompanying this flood of tourists was a demand for souvenirs to remind happy vacationers of their Hawaiian stay.

One type of souvenir created to meet this demand were the hand carved perfume bottles.  Each bottle held one of the few Hawaiian perfumes then available.  The bottle itself was carved from local wood . . . usually monkey pod, milo, or koa in the shape of a Hawaiian flower, leaf, or other related figural  design.  Several companies formed to produce these souvenir perfume bottles.  Gumps put out its own version of course.  Others I have found were made by Hula-Lei (which still produces Hawaiian perfumes),  Harder's (a major merchandise distributer throughout the islands), and some smaller companies such as John Oya and M. Gelby.  There may have been others as well.

During World War II, the presence of American military personnel added to the demand as more people became aware of Hawaii and sent bottles of perfume home.  One source stated that such bottles were even sold on the local black market during the war years.

After the war, easier transportation made it possible for tourism to expand.  By the end of the 1950's, however, the souvenir hand carved bottles were being replaced by other souvenirs and other less labor intensive bottles.

DESIRABILITY FOR COLLECTING:

Today, the Hawaiian wood perfume bottle is considered very collectible.  Why?  It is desirable for several reasons:  age, nostalgia for Hawaiiana, the fact that most were hand carved, the variety of flowers and Hawaiian figures they present, and finally because they are no longer being made.  Limited supply always increases demand.

My favorite ones are those made by the John A. Oya Company and I hope to write another monograph (eBay guide) on that series.

TYPES:

The perfume inside the bottles did not always match the flower carved on the outside.
The pictures shown below by noted producers is by no means meant to be all inclusive.  I have seen many other patterns that no longer bear any label and therefore are harder to identify.  Others I have just not posted to save space in this guide.

Gumps:
       

Hula-Lei:
    
Starting from the top left to the right they are:  1) Taro leaf,  2)  unknown flower,  3)  Hibiscus,  4)  Palm Tree,  5) Duo Palms,  6)  Two Leaves
Harders:
    
Starting top left to right they are:  1) unknown flower, 2)  unknown flower,
3)  Unicorn,  4)  Plumeria,  5)  Dove

John Oya:
    
In this advertising card for Oya bottles, ten of his most popular are listed.  They are from top left to right:  1) Hibiscus, 2) Ginger, 3)  Plumeria, 4) Small Tiki,
5)  Water Lily, 6)  Night Blooming Cerus, 7.  LargeTiki,  8.  Sea Horse,
9)  Torch Ginger, and 10)  Angel Fish.

M. Gelby:
        a palm?

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