Incubator settings:
Little Giant Incubator Still Air (no fan) 101 degrees
Little Giant Incubator Force Air (with fan) 99.5 degrees (this model circulates air providing even temp through out incubator) HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
.
Hatching:
21 to 22 days of incubating.
18-19 days of turning, (AUTOMATIC TURNER HIGHLY RECOMMENDED). Take eggs out of the turner and let eggs sit the last three to four days (this allows chick to turn inside egg to begin to peck out) without turning inside the incubator. You can add some sponges to increase humidity level if necessary. Sponges can be placed under wire mesh along side the section you add water. When the eggs start hatching leave them alone and leave the incubator closed until ALL eggs hatch. If you take the chicks out as they hatch you lose your humidity and lower the temp for the others trying to hatch. Higher humidity settings are a must during the last days of the hatching process, follow your incubator recommendations.
Incubating Tips:
Locate incubator where the temp is steady and it is not drafty, this will allow you to maintain a more constant and even temperature and humidity level.
MINIMIZE OPENING THE INCUBTOR TO MAINTAIN TEMP & HUMIDITY.
Buy an AUTOMATIC egg turner, it will pay for its self in the increased hatch rate.
USE a digital thermometer that has a probe you can insert through the top of the incubator for accurate readings. Check temperature daily and keep a log of any changes and adjustments!
Keep water in incubater, for proper humidity control add water daily, use a turkey baster and tube inserted through the top of the incubator to add water....DO NOT open lid, this drastically changes humidity and temperature levels! DISINFECT your incubator between hatches with a DISINFECTANT designed for the job.
Brooding:
You can build a brooder box out of a plastic storage box or ice chest, line the bottom with wood shavings and cover with fine mesh wire so chicks can get traction. You can suspend a light bulb over brooder for heat and adjust temp by raising or lowering the lamp or by changing the bulb wattage.
First week they need 99-100 degrees and you can reduce the temp by five degrees per week after that.
Pay close attention to the chicks, if they are staying out away from the light source it is too hot, adjust untill they stay under the light, but are not huddled all in a clump under it. If ALL the chicks are directly under the light in a clump the temp is too low, increase wattage or lower the lamp. Get a chick waterer, and put marbles or clean rocks in base for the chicks to stand on and drink which keeps them from getting wet or drowning. You can feed them chick starter that is 26% protien or higher after the second day in the brooder.
Adult Buckeye's:
Typically start laying eggs at 18-21 weeks of age.
For best hatch results let them lay for three or four weeks before collecting your first eggs for hatching, they seem to become more feritle as a result.
Males are larger and have larger more colorful tail feathers than the females. Females will be smaller in size and more active than the males.
Keep one Rooster to every 10-12 hens.
Lights in your coop above layers, will keep them laying throughout the winter months. They need 14 to 16 hours of daylight to lay everyday.
Eggs Shipped by Mail:
Unpack carefully, it is not uncommon to have broken eggs. Remove and discard damaged eggs. If some eggs have yoke on their shells use a damp cloth with room temperature water and lightly clean the eggs. After unpacking LET EGGS SIT STILL FOR AT LEAST 12-24 HOURS, this will allow the embro to settle after shipping. Put them in the same room the incubator is in, so as they settle they reach the same room temperature.
GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR BUCKEYE CHICK HATCHES.....and other hatches as well!!!
Little Giant Incubator Still Air (no fan) 101 degrees
Little Giant Incubator Force Air (with fan) 99.5 degrees (this model circulates air providing even temp through out incubator) HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
.
Hatching:
21 to 22 days of incubating.
18-19 days of turning, (AUTOMATIC TURNER HIGHLY RECOMMENDED). Take eggs out of the turner and let eggs sit the last three to four days (this allows chick to turn inside egg to begin to peck out) without turning inside the incubator. You can add some sponges to increase humidity level if necessary. Sponges can be placed under wire mesh along side the section you add water. When the eggs start hatching leave them alone and leave the incubator closed until ALL eggs hatch. If you take the chicks out as they hatch you lose your humidity and lower the temp for the others trying to hatch. Higher humidity settings are a must during the last days of the hatching process, follow your incubator recommendations.
Incubating Tips:
Locate incubator where the temp is steady and it is not drafty, this will allow you to maintain a more constant and even temperature and humidity level.
MINIMIZE OPENING THE INCUBTOR TO MAINTAIN TEMP & HUMIDITY.
Buy an AUTOMATIC egg turner, it will pay for its self in the increased hatch rate.
USE a digital thermometer that has a probe you can insert through the top of the incubator for accurate readings. Check temperature daily and keep a log of any changes and adjustments!
Keep water in incubater, for proper humidity control add water daily, use a turkey baster and tube inserted through the top of the incubator to add water....DO NOT open lid, this drastically changes humidity and temperature levels! DISINFECT your incubator between hatches with a DISINFECTANT designed for the job.
Brooding:
You can build a brooder box out of a plastic storage box or ice chest, line the bottom with wood shavings and cover with fine mesh wire so chicks can get traction. You can suspend a light bulb over brooder for heat and adjust temp by raising or lowering the lamp or by changing the bulb wattage.
First week they need 99-100 degrees and you can reduce the temp by five degrees per week after that.
Pay close attention to the chicks, if they are staying out away from the light source it is too hot, adjust untill they stay under the light, but are not huddled all in a clump under it. If ALL the chicks are directly under the light in a clump the temp is too low, increase wattage or lower the lamp. Get a chick waterer, and put marbles or clean rocks in base for the chicks to stand on and drink which keeps them from getting wet or drowning. You can feed them chick starter that is 26% protien or higher after the second day in the brooder.
Adult Buckeye's:
Typically start laying eggs at 18-21 weeks of age.
For best hatch results let them lay for three or four weeks before collecting your first eggs for hatching, they seem to become more feritle as a result.
Males are larger and have larger more colorful tail feathers than the females. Females will be smaller in size and more active than the males.
Keep one Rooster to every 10-12 hens.
Lights in your coop above layers, will keep them laying throughout the winter months. They need 14 to 16 hours of daylight to lay everyday.
Eggs Shipped by Mail:
Unpack carefully, it is not uncommon to have broken eggs. Remove and discard damaged eggs. If some eggs have yoke on their shells use a damp cloth with room temperature water and lightly clean the eggs. After unpacking LET EGGS SIT STILL FOR AT LEAST 12-24 HOURS, this will allow the embro to settle after shipping. Put them in the same room the incubator is in, so as they settle they reach the same room temperature.
GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR BUCKEYE CHICK HATCHES.....and other hatches as well!!!
Guide created: 02/20/07 (updated 10/07/09)


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