Forcing the Hyacinth Bulb

   Forcing the term used to describe the special treatment of the bulbs so that they will flower before their normal time. For most bulbs, forcing requires a period of cold and darkness to speed up root development before flowering can take place. Your Hyacinth bulb can be forced in potting soil, or without soil over water in special jars.

   In the fall Hyacinths, along with Amaryllis and Paperwhites, can be grown without soil in special glass containers called forcing jars, or Hyacinth jars. These specially made containers are constructed in an hourglass shape with a pinched-in waist to support the bulbs above water in the bottom of the jar. When your Hyacinth bulb grows it sends out roots into the water beneath.

   The glass jar should be filled with water to just under the bottom of the bulb. It is important that the water level is not high enough for the bulb to come in contact with it, because this will rot your bulb (keep the water level at leave 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) below the base of the bulb). Adding activated charcoal to the water will keep it fresh longer.

   Forcing jars can be made of crystal, cobalt, amythyst or green-colored glass, and they look very decorative grouped together on a window sill.

   For forcing pick firm, unbelished Hyacinth bulbs, the bigger the better. Specially prepared bulbs, potted in early September, can be easily forced in time for December holidays.

   Your Hyacinth plant requires a period of cold tempatures before it will bloom. For blooming in the house, the Hyacinth bulb first needs to be placed in a dark, cool location (about 40 deg. f.(5 deg. C)- a cool cellar, an unheated garage, or a refrigerator, but not the freezer) until the root system is well developed, and growth from the top has just started. Forcing bulbs in garages and basements can be less successful because temperatures in these areas can fluctuate.

   Leave your bulb in the cool area for 13 weeks. Already 'prepared' or 'pre-cooled' Hyacinth bulbs need cooling for just 10 weeks; non-prepared bulbs need 13 weeks. Top up the water in the jars occasionally, always keeping the level of water close to, but not touching, the base of the bulb. When forcing Hyacinths (And Amaryllis and paperwhites) it is important not to store apples, pineapples or other fruit nearby, especially in enclosed areas such as refrigerators. The ripening fruits give off ethylene gas which can kill or damage the developing flower within the bulbs.

   When the gowing Hyacinth bulb shoots reach about 2 inches (5cm) tall, and the root system extends to the bottom of the water, remove the jar to a slightly warmer area with low light intensity. Gradually condtion your plant over the next 3-4 days for its final move to a sunny window, for the leaves and flowers to develop. When the flowers appear, keep in bright, indirect light. Moderate temperatures of 60-65 deg. F (10 deg. C), or below, will give a longer flowering period. Each day turn the plant round a little so that the flowers do not develop a lean towards the light.

   You can force successive flowerings of Hyacinths indoors. When one wave of flowers begin to fade, the container is removed and replaced with a new one full of fresh flowers.

   Once your Hyacinth bulb has been forced to cloom, it should either be planted in a sunny spot in your garden, after the last frost, or discarded. It cannot be forced to flower the following year.