Making a sewing machine cabinet is a nice project for the average hobbyist or woodworker.  A sewing machine secured in a cabinet has less chances to lose its adjustments, compared to a portable one.  By experience, I can tell you that 70% of sewing machines repaired in a sewing shop are "portable" machines.

When lifted up and down, a portable sewing machine will lose its adjustments and timings with the time.  A machine in a cabinet lay stable, never get the stress of being transportated.  Also, a cabinet will permit you to sew on a flush surface with the machine's bed. 

Any kind of wood can be used.  I do not recommend presswood where humidity is present like in a basement or in any humid area.  Solid wood of any kind is recommended.  Plywood can be used also but will require a good edge and surface sanding and finishing or can be covered with arborite or stratified materials.  Keep in mind the sewing surface should be very smooth so the material will feed easily.  A rough surface can ruin the feed dogs and their related parts and the stitches will not be made evenly.

THE MAIN GOAL IS THE TOP SURFACE - You will need a whole piece of wood in order to make the top surface.  You have 2 options: a basic cabinet or a folding panel cabinet.  On a basic cabinet, the machine stay always on the top, like a commercial machine.  A folding panel cabinet has 2 advantages: a larger work surface and a work space when the machine is hidden inside.

THE BASIC CABINET.  The basic cabinet consist of a "top surface", 4 pieces of wood forming the front, rear and side parts to hold the top surface.  To complete this assembly, 4 legs of any kind (like old table legs) will support the assembly.  Let's start with the top surface !  You may follow the exact dimensions shown or custom make yours in relation with the space available in your room.  You will have to respect carefully the machine's opening dimensions.

STEP 1: CUT THE TOP SURFACE 18" x 30".

It can be made of plywood, presswood, melamine, etc.  A thickness of 5/8" is recommended but you can use 1/2" or 3/4".

STEP 2:  PREPARING THE MACHINE'S OPENING.

IMPORTANT!  You will have to choose the right opening for your machine.  There are 2 major "standard" openings for 90% of sewing machines: the "small cut" (standard 7-1/8" x 14-3/4") and the "large cut" (7-1/8" x 16-1/2").

The STANDARD CUT (7-1/8" x 14-3/4") includes machines of many makes like Arrow, Baycrest, Brother, Imperial, some Kenmore, Morse, Necchi, Pfaff, some Viking, White and most Singer 15 series and the 66, 201, 206, 237, 239, 306 and 319.

The LARGE CUT (7-1/8" x 16-1/2") includes only Singer series 300, 401, 403, 404, 414, 500, 503, 600 series.  If you are not sure, please measure the bed of your machine.  Some other makes will require you to measure the bed of the machine.  On some older models, bed corners are square instead of round, like the White-Rotary and some old Kenmore models.  Measuring is always a safe procedure before cutting anything.

You will have to make first 4 holes of approx. 1" (4 corners).  The best suitable tool is a hole saw with an electric drill.  You can use also a jigsaw but it needs more precision to obtain 4 smooth round corners.  The first step is to trace the machine's opening with a black (fine) felt pen.  Measure exactly the distance by tracing 4 lines like the illustration below.

The opening measures (inside) should arrive to 7-1/8" x 14-1/2".  Now that your 4 lines are traced, you are ready to start cutting the opening.

STEP 3: CUTTING THE OPENING.

You will have to pierce 4 holes (on each corner) with a one inch hole saw.  Be careful the hole saw does not cut outside the lines on each corner.  The illustration below show the 4 holes which will permit also to insert your jigsaw.

You should obtain a nice opening measuring exactly 7-1/8" x 14-1/2" with 4 smooth corners.

STEP 4:  PREPARING THE 2 HINGE HOLES

In order to install your 2 sewing machine hinges, you will have to cut out 2 holes of 1-1/8" each.  To do so, a 1-1/8" spade bit drill is all indicated.  Standards were established for any small cut sewing machine for the distance of the 2 hinges.  You may install your machine right in the opening to figure exactly where the 2 hinges will be located on your top surface.  Distance between the hinges is always 9-3/4".  Because many models of hinges were manufactured, I would recommend you to install them on the machine.  They hold in place by a set screw already on the machine, in front of each hinge's hole.  You can trace around each hinge to know exactly where to drill the 2 holes. 

STEP 5:  CUTTING THE 2 HINGE OPENINGS

You are ready to drill your 2 hinge holes.  CAUTION!  Do not exceed 1/4" deep in drilling so the hinges will stay flush with your top surface.  If by mistake you drilled too deep, you will have to cut 1-1/8" carboard pieces and put them into the hole to fill the extra space.  Using your 1-1/8" spade bit, start slowly to drill.  You may put a masking tape at 1/4" from the edge.  When reaching the masking tape you will know it's time to stop.

Now that both holes are done, you will have to cut the hinge stud space.  A small wood chisel, small saw or wood carving toll will do the job fast.  You should now have 2 complete hinge holes ready to fit the hinges in.  Install both hinges to see if htey are not too deep or not enough deep.  They are supposed to be flush with the top surface.  After both hinges are fitted correctly, remove them until the whole cabinet is completed.

STEP 6:  PREPARING THE SIDE PANELS.

It is up to you to make 4 simple sides made of any kind of wood.  I recommend a thickness of 5/8" but 1/2" or 3/4" will be fine also.  Keep in mind my measures were done with 5/8" thick wood.  You will need 2 pieces of 6-1/4" x 16-1/4" and 2 other pieces of 6-1/4" x 29-1/2". Pictured below are the 4 side panel pieces.

STEP 7:  ASSEMBLING THE SIDE PANELS.

You are now ready to assemble these 4 pieces which will serves as a solid frame for your top surface.  Note the top surface's frame will be in recess of 1/4" all around the surface top.  This makes a nice look on any wooden furniture.  To assemble the 4 side panels, using metal angles is fast and will not show like screws, dowels, etc.To do a solid job, install at least 3 metal angles on each corner.

STEP 8:  ASSEMBLING THE FRAME AND SURFACE TOP.

Again, the fastest way to assemble the frame to the top surface is with metal angles.  This assembly will be strong enough to support the sewing machine.  Place your surface top (hinges removed) down on a flat level surface.  The position your frame so 1/4" will be exceeding all around.  You can install metal angles at different places, but leave 3" from each corners to keep space for installing the legs. 

STEP 9:  PREPARING THE 4 LEGS

Your assembly is now ready for the legs.  You can make custom legs or find any suitable legs.  The leg's lenght is usually 29".  The 4 legs should be made of hard wood to support the sewing machine and the cabinet.  The ideal size of wood is 2" x 2".  You will first cut them at 29" each.  The upper leg should be square and the bottom taper, for 2 reasons.  The first reason is for a nice look.  The second reason is to minimize the friction on the floor.  If the legs are left square on the floor, they can break the entire cabinet if by accident, one leg is pushed.  Also in case of moving the cabinet, taper legs will make very small friction on the floor, thus moving the cabinet easier.  You should have 4 identical legs of 29" each.  Be sure they are all identical because if they are not, your cabinet will move while you sew.

STEP 10:  TAPERING THE LEGS

The ideal tool for this job is an electric disc sander (fixed).  You will have to trace lines to get the exact shape.  By removing 1/2" (starting from the edge) of wood on each face of the leg, going taper to approx. 8", you will get nice shaped legs.  Some prefer to cut them directly on a table saw.  Others will buy directly a set of brand new legs at the local hardware store.  When buying a set of new legs, you will have to follow the instructions to install them.  Many systems exists and the needed hardware comes with them.  In the case of custom legs, I recommend strongly to screw them on the side panels and secure them with 2 big wood screws.  Another method consist of special metal angles that are screwed in front of each leg and secured on the side panels.  You will have to figure what is available at your local hardware store.

STEP 11:  INSTALLING A DRIP PAN.

A drip pan is very simple to do but very important to protect your legs and the floor from oil drops and lint.  You can use a piece of masonite or very thin wood (1/8").  The drip pan can be installed with 4 metal angles directly under the cabinet.  The drip pan I've made measures 16" x 28" so it will not be tight under the cabinet. 

STEP 12: MAKING A FOLDING PANEL.

A folding panel will double your cabinet surface.  It is easy to do.  All you need is to cut a similar top surface panel.  Attached to the left by invisible or ordinary hinges, it will fold down when not in use.  You will have to install a temporary leg with this system.  Another system consist of folding the panel on the cabinet top surface.  In this case, you will have to cut a 4" piece in front of the machine in order to hide the machine inside the cabinet.  I recommend this option for the experimented woodworker only.  Below is an illustration of a sewing machine cabinet opening to hide the machine.

Thank you for your time and please do not hesitate to e-mail me for any particular question.  I hope you will enjoy it :-) 

If you’ve enjoyed this guide your vote would be appreciated :-)

Andre (alcnational)