HOW TO MAKE THE BEST COMPOST EVER

This Guide will teach you how to make beautiful, healthy compost easily, inexpensively, and with little maintenance. Composting is great fun and will not only cut down on the amount of waste that is sent off to the landfill, but will also add to the enjoyment of gardening.

Composting is an age old farming practice that has all but gone by the wayside with the advent of phosphate fertilizers in the 1940’s. Natural organic compost is Mother Nature’s food for plants, so it is our hope that more individuals, businesses, and government agencies will decide to practice environmentally conscientious methods like composting.

SUPPLIES NEEDED

Any of the following:

• Old fencing (wooden or metal)
• Chicken wire or hog wire
• Shade Cloth
• Old spirits barrel
• PVC barrel
• 5 Gallon bucket
• Any material that will provide a slightly rigid barrier
• Any open area or pit

HOW TO BUILD YOUR COMPOST STRUCTURE (a.k.a. COMPOSTER)

Whatever type of supplies you use, you'll need enough material to make a 4 sided structure with some sort of access – either through the top or on the side.  Dimensions are up to the creator - just make sure that you make it large enough for what you'll be composting. If you’re going to make a freestanding pile or a pit, you’re done…unless you haven’t dug a pit yet.  It typically takes about 1 month for compost material to properly breakdown, although ambient or outside temperature, can slow down this process (bacteria will digest organic material to about 1/2 to 1/3 of its original size).

From here on in, I will refer to your newly constructed structure as a compost barrel or a compost bin.  If you’re making your composter out of a rigid, prefabricated container, than I will refer to it as a compost barrel & if you’re making your composter out of fencing or the like, I will refer to it as a compost bin.  An open area or pit is pretty self-explanatory, so I don’t think that I need to go into detail about making one.

COMPOST BARREL

If using a barrel or any pre-fabricated type of structure, it will be necessary to drill or punch holes in the sides and the bottom.  Make sure that these holes are no less than 6" apart from each other and are 1/2 – 1” in diameter.  Your compost barrel will need to have a top or side opening to access the compost.  This opening should be large enough to easily remove & rotate the compost.

If your compost barrel is going to be accessed through the top or the side, a number of methods can be used.  1) Cut a large opening in the front for access - this door will need to be attached with either screws or hooks or with hinges and a latch.  2) Use the lid that came with your prefabricated container & either attach or just place it on top.

COMPOST BIN

If you are going to use fencing or the like, all you'll need is 4 corner posts and possibly a few posts in between so that your structure has rigidity. Your compost bin will also need to have a top or side opening to access the compost. This opening should be large enough to easily remove & rotate the compost.

Many methods can also be used if your compost bin is going to be accessed through the top or the side.  1) Attach the access door on with screws or hooks & remove when needed.  2) Leave the access open with a loose piece or mesh, fencing, or other material covering the opening.  3) Build a top or side gate (I find this to be ideal) by attaching a door using hinges to the corner posts and a latch on the opposite side of the gate and opposite corner post.

WHAT YOU CAN COMPOST

NUTRITION 101

Basically any organic material and food stuffs can be composted.  My compost is beautiful, light and fluffy, has a rich earthy odor, and is deep brown in color. The key to a healthy compost pile is nutrient balance.  In order to maintain this balance, it is important to not use too much of any one material.

Amounts of materials high in nutrients such as carbon (C) found in leaves, twigs, and paper products, nitrogen (N) found in green things like grass clippings and vegetables, , potassium (P) found in ash, phosphorus (K) found in bone, especially bone meal, can be dangerous to plants and can limit the uptake of other available nutrients.  N, P, and K will also be produced naturally as a by-product from bacteria (microorganisms) digesting organic matter.  It is important to keep a good ratio of C (the brown organic matter) and N (the green organic matter) in your pile.  In order for organic matter to breakdown in a timely manner, it is preferable to shred leaves and paper products before adding them to the compost.  There can never be too much green material from the kitchen, but limit grass clippings, as they require a lot of aeration / rotation due to the high moisture content.

Foods high in fats and proteins (meats ad dairy) can also be detrimental to your compost and should be limited, as these materials inhibit the ability of plants to uptake the proper nutrients within the compost and can be dangerous to humans if the compost pile has not reached high enough temperatures that will kill dangerous microorganisms.  These foods can also produce an offensive odor and attract animals if not covered properly.

Fresh manure is also a material to be careful with – manure is one of the best sources for compost, but it must breakdown properly for safe use.  Domestic animal waste is not recommended for the use in compost that you are going to use for feeding plants that you intend to eat, as it can contain dangerous organisms.  Animal waste can be composted in the same manner as we are discussing, but should only be used to feed ornamental plants and only when fully broken down – odor should be pleasant.

COMPOSTABLE MATERIAL

Anything that will biodegrade will work - I have used the following materials for years:

From the good ole’ outdoors:

• Manure
• Grass Clippings
• Leaves
• Peat or Humus
• Sand, Soil, and Clay
• Ash
• Sawdust

From the kitchen & home:

• Coffee Grounds
• Egg Shells
• Fruits and Vegetables
• Bread, Chips, and Flour Products
• Meat, Poultry, Fish and Shellfish, and Dairy Products
• Oil and Grease
• Bones and Bone Meal
• Any thing that you eat and would otherwise throw away
• Paper Towels, Cardboard, Paper Plates, and other Paper Products
• Cotton, Wool, or other Natural Fibers from old Clothing and Rags
• Dryer Lint
• Hair

HOW TO MAINTAIN YOUR COMPOST PILE

The health of your compost pile is crucial to how well it will breakdown and how well it will feed your plants.  The majority of what you add to your pile should be plant and vegetable matter from the kitchen.  Organically grown foods and yard waste are ideal for the optimal health of your compost.  So, what you put in will make a difference to its quality and how well it feeds your plants.  Inorganic materials such as phosphate fertilizers, synthesized herbicides and pesticides and processed foods, should be limited or not added at all, as these things profoundly contribute to pollution, limited nutritional quality, and food toxicity.

AERATION

Aeration plays a critical role in breakdown and is important for quick, even, and odor free decomposition.  Turning of the pile is actually not biologically helpful and not necessary if you have the proper aeration.  Proper aeration is a result of making sure your pile adequately breathes, so make sure to have enough open areas and to layer with a good mix.  Your structure will need to breathe and water will need to be able to percolate or flow through the bottom.

LAYERING

Layering is fundamental in material breakdown.  Remember the C: N ratio in your compost pile.  You want to cover your fresh kitchen stuff with a healthy, 3-6 inch layer of leaves, paper, or other “brown” organic matter.  You can also use other nutritive materials for layering such as ash and sand, but remember to limit and mix these types of materials as they will negatively alter the quality of your compost if used in abundance.

MOISTURE

Moisture content – you don’t want your pile too wet or too dry.  Too much water will convert your aerated aerobic compost pile into a soupy anaerobic mush factory and too little water will not provide the adequate moisture for aerobic organisms to survive.  The optimal moisture content of your pile depends on the content of your pile.  For example, fibrous (i.e., leaves) materials contain less water than fleshy materials (i.e., oranges).  Make sure that your pile has the proper drainage and aeration that will maintain the moisture content.  Composting material is very heavy due to the moisture & gases that are created, so if your pile is dry, water it. If it’s gooshy, than rotate it, and don’t water it or allow rain to get to it for several days.

TEMPERATURE

It is important that your compost reach very high temperatures.  Naturally occurring bacteria are the “good” microorganisms and are what will turn your trash into compost.  High temperatures are the by product of microbial digestion of organic matter.  This digestion causes gases to be release, thus the heat that is produced (an exothermic – heat - reaction).  Therefore, the high temperatures should occur naturally.  The center of your pile should reach 135-160 ºF for several days.  Most pathogenic organisms or “bad” microorganisms are best killed at 150 ºF.  You can locate your composter in the sun or in the shade because the temperature of the interior will rise all by itself.  However, ideally it does best located in a partially sunny area.  An important note: too much fibrous materials will limit the temperature.

WILDLIFE

Wild animals such as raccoons and opossums love compost.  Cover each kitchen collection dump with at least a 3 inch layer of a good mix of sawdust, soil, peat or humus, leaves, ash or other outdoor stuff.  You want to make sure that this layer:  1) has a good nutrient mix, 2) will provide enough cover so that animals & flies are discouraged from getting to it, and 3) will keep your pile from stinking.

HOW LONG UNTIL THE COMPOST IS READY

It takes about 1 month for organic matter to breakdown fully and safely.  The higher the C: N ratio, the shorter the decomposition time will be (of course temperature, moisture content, and aeration also play a role).  I harvest my compost about every 30-90 days (depending on the time of year and when I need it).

HOW TO USE MY COMPOST

HARVEST

Here's how I harvest my freshly made and ready to use compost:

• Open the door
• Shovel or pitchfork about 2/3 off of the top of the pile and set aside or into a wheelbarrow or cart
• Take the bottom layer - that’s what I use to add to my soil (this layer should be dark, crumbly and smelling of the purest soil that you’ve ever smelled)
• Put the top 2/3 back into the composter and close the door

APPLICATION

• Use compost as a soil amendment by thoroughly mixing it into existing soil.  If applying it directly to your garden, mix into the top 6 inches of your garden’s soil.
Place compost on top of the soil instead of mixing it in.  However, compost can be too rich to do this for seeds and seedlings (it is best to test your compost’s nutritional strength first before doing this).  When it rains, the nutrients from the compost will leach into the existing soil.
• Add some to established plants by digging out some of the old soil and mixing it with your compost.
• Or you can add some to each hole that you dig for container grown plants ready to go into your garden.

TIPS

1. Pails, milk cartons, and plastic containers are great receptacles to collect your kitchen waste in.  Tip: keep these sealed until you dump them in your pile to prevent stinky stinks in the kitchen and to keep the flies and other critters away.
2. Coffee shops are a great place to get free, excellent ready to compost material.  Tip: earth worms love coffee grounds and earth worms are one of the best indicators of healthy soil.
3. Manure is one of the best ingredients for a compost pile.  Tip: it’s usually free if you are willing to shovel it – give some of your local farms a call.
4. Weeds, especially invasive ones are a nuisance and disrupt ecological balance.  Tip: let them dry out in the sun for several days before you add them to your pile – we don’t want them to come back!
5. Some cities have regulations against composting animal products.  Tip: get in touch with your local government agencies to find out. They also might offer classes and free composting supplies for you.
6. Peat, soil, sand and other amendments can help add to your finished product.  Tip: try not to add too much of these during the composting process, as they will not allow your pile to breathe as well.