FIND OUT YEAR OF CHASSIS, CONTACT BUILDER TO CONFIRM, SOME(GRT,ROCKET) HAVE SERIAL NUMBERS WELDED ON CHASSIS, BUILDER WILL PROBABLY HAVE A HISTORY OF CAR. IF AD SAYS 4-BAR, OR 4-LINK REAR, FIND OUT IF IT CAME FROM FACTORY THAT WAY, OR WAS CONVERTED FROM UNDERSLUNG LEAF, AND WHO DID IT. THE WORD ROLLER HAS MANY  FORMS, BE SURE OF THE PARTS YOU ARE GETTING BEFORE YOU BUY.

    ALSO FIND OUT IF CAR HAS BEEN CLIPPED ON THE FRONT OR REAR, THIS MEANS THE CHASSIS WAS DAMAGED IN AN ACCIDENT AND GEOMETRY WAS LOST FROM FACTORY BUILDING, AND HAD TO BE REPLACED.

  FIND OUT WHAT SERIES THE CAR WAS COMPETING IN, IF IT DOES HAVE WHEELS AND TIRES, THEY MAY NOT BE THE WIDTH YOU NEED! ALSO FIND OUT WHAT SIZE FUEL CELL IS, AND LOCATION, THIS CAN GIVE AWAY REPAIRS TO CHASSIS. BE SURE IT IS WHAT IT SAYS, A LATE MODEL DIRT CAR TO ME IS A FULL JIG, PURPOSE BUILT CHASSIS, TO SOME IT IS A "SNOUT CAR", WHERE A FACTORY FRONT CLIP IS WELDED TO A FABRICATED REAR.  RESEARCH PARTS ADVERTISED WITH CAR, GET A GOOD VISUAL FROM PHOTO, TRY TO FIND A NEW PART AND SEE IF IT LOOKS THE SAME, I HAVE SEEN CARS MYSELF ADVERTISED AS "NEW, NEVER SEEN DIRT", BUT, THE CAR WAS ASSEMBLED IN 1995 AND MAY BE OUTDATED, AND IN NEED OF  SEVERAL HUNDRED DOLLARS TO UPDATE.

  BE SURE OF THE WHEELS, AND OFFSET OF WHEELS, ONE INCH DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE, IF IT COMES WITH TEN WHEELS, BE SURE YOU CAN USE THEM. LOOK UNDER BODY WHEN YOU SEE CAR IN THE FLESH, LOOK FOR OIL, GREASE, ANY FLUID THAT MAY BE COMING FROM ENGINE, OR DRIVETRAIN, ALSO LOOK AT TRAILER, LOOK FOR WET SPOTS WHERE ENGINE, TRANSMISSION, OR REAREND WOULD BE, A BIG SPOT COULD BE A WARNING SIGN OF REPAIR NEEDED. REMEMBER, RESEARCH IS THE BEST BET.