"IT LOOKED GREAT WHEN I WAS FINISHED, BUT NOW ?! ......"

How often have you said that to yourself? Do you know anyone that hasn't? Getting the right advice with the wrong product can be just as damaging as the wrong advice with the right product. The trick is research enough to ask the right questions so this doesn't happen to you.

First things first, so we don't keep rehashing the same point over and over again --- there is no ideal substitution for a top quality paint product. Products that are appealing due to the low price attached are probably only worth that and will generally cost a great deal more when they fall short of your expectations.

Most common household paint issues can be avoided if you follow these two keys to success: 1) get the best quality, most suitable product that you can afford for your project and, 2) ask lots of questions so you can assure yourself you are tackling that project with all the information you need to do it right the first time!

Now that we've established that, the following problems will have solutions that do not address re-doing the job with a "high quality paint" or that the problem resulted from using a "low quality paint" the first time around. We're going to assume that as a given, unless otherwise noted. 

So, get ready to say,

"Oh, THAT"S what that is ..... I was wondering about that!"

1) BLISTERING

Description: Bubbles forming on the surface due to lack or loss of adhesion from the underlying surface 

Possible reasons:

• the surface was painted in direct sunlight or was still too warm from having been in direct line of the sun or some other heat source
• the paint applied was oil-based and was applied to a wet or damp surface, or possibly on a porous surface during times of extreme humidity
• the paint applied was water-based but was exposed to dew or rain shortly after it appeared dry. 

Solutions: If blisters go all the way to the original surface, try to stop the moisture at its source. For instance, if the blistering is on deck or fence boards, ensure that all cut edges of the boards are fully painted and sealed before sanding any of the blisters for repainting. If the blisters are on a window sill, check for splits or cracks in the caulking around the pane. If very aged, it's best to remove the old and replace with new, stronger caulking material. Sand or scrape the blistered areas. If bare surfaces occur, prime with a product intended for that type of surface and wait the time necessary before top-coating; hurrying will just bring the blisters right back again.

Prevention & Understanding: Heat within a surface is trapped by a fresh coat of paint. Like moisture, it will try to escape. Water-based paint on a hot surface can't bond because the water will try to evaporate before it can penetrate properly. Oil-based paint on a hot surface can't bond because the mineral spirits (a.k.a. solvent, varsol) will "cook" the paint, causing it to dry far too quickly, again resulting in a lack of penetration. The rule of thumb is to follow the sun; paint only where the sun has already been and the surface has sufficiently cooled. On very hot days, you'll get a break because painting probably just isn't a good idea, unless you want to do it again in a few months.

2) BURNISHING

Description: An apparent increase in gloss or sheen on the paint surface when exposed to excessive rubbing, scrubbing or the regular contact of objects brushing against it.

Possible reasons:

• application of a flat finish (low or no shine) paint in a high traffic area
• frequent washing and/or spot cleaning
• objects (such as furniture, etc) rubbing against the painted surface

Solutions: Heavy traffic areas will rarely stand up if painted with products that have little or no sheen. Always consider the exposure the walls, doors, trim will have in any given area before you paint. There are many products made specifically for doors and trim; these are a good starting point. Remember to clean painted surfaces with soft, non-abrasive sponges and cleaners; paint that expects to be washed regularly requires no more than mild detergent and warm water.

Prevention & Understanding: High gloss paint is extremely smooth, so excessive washing, even scrubbing, will have little if any effect on the surface. Dull or flat finish paints are very coarse; excessive washing will break down the peaks and valleys on the surface resulting in smooth or "burnished" spots. The smoother the spot, the more light reflectance, making it appear to be glossy when it's really just being worn away.

3) FLASHING

Description: An uneven gloss on a painted surface, resulting in shiny or dull spots

Possible reasons:

• paint has been spread (rolled or brushed) unevenly
• patched spots or nail holes weren't properly primed or sealed before the paint topcoat was applied

Solutions: If the paint type on the surface is unknown, it is always a good idea to prime first to obtain an evenly porous surface. Patched areas should always be spot primed before a topcoat is applied. If a large amount of patching was required, it may be necessary to add an extra coat of paint to even out the gloss.

Prevention & Understanding: Patching compounds (a.k.a. spackling) are extremely porous. Without properly priming these areas, paint will soak in like a sponge leaving only the color on the patched area; the surface characteristics of the paint will have soaked right in where they will stay. Try this trick; if you are mixing the patching compound from a powder form, add a little of the water-based primer to the mix instead of straight water. This will strengthen the compound and ensure that when you spot prime the patched surface, you will have a better base for your paint topcoat. Remember to wait the drying time of the primer, not the patch compound, if you use this trick.

4) TRANSLUCENCE

Description: The failure of the dried paint to obscure or "hide" the color or pattern over which it was applied.

Possible reasons:

• use of the wrong roller sleeve for the job
• paint is expected to have a higher spread rate than intended by the manufacturer; finished paint is too thin
• poorly recommended covering color for the particular surface color or pattern
• use of a very light or low-hiding pigmented color on a dark or difficult to hide color

Solutions: If the surface is significantly darker or brighter than the new paint color (i.e. a black being covered by a red or red being covered by a yellow), the surface should first be primed with a stain blocking primer. If painting a brightly colored surface with a paler color, you can also use a tinted primer before you start your final paint finish. It will give you a head start and will likely save you a coat or two. Using a roller sleeve with a low pile for a flat, coarse paint will result in a lack of coverage due to the paint being applied too thinly. The rule is that the glossier the paint, the less "pile" on the roller sleeve, the better, and vice versa. (See my other guide for choosing the correct rollers and brushes for more detail.)

Prevention & Understanding: Yellow, red and orange pigments are generally man-made and now that paint is becoming more commonly lead-free, these colors and all shades associated with them are becoming a challenge for good hiding. Some colors will "bleed" through others, no matter how many coats of paint you apply. Stain blocking primers are designed to seal back the offending color or pattern. Keep in mind that this type of primer may still allow you to see the original surface when it's dry; that's not a problem. The job of the primer is to seal, not to hide. The paint topcoat will do the hiding part of the job. These stain blocking primers are also designed to hide other problems such as marker. crayon stains, smoke damage, even urine stains from pet incontinence. Once the topcoat is applied, you'll never know the stain was ever there.

5) VINYL SIDING WARP

Description: The vinyl siding panels have warped or buckled after being repainted.

Possible reasons:

• very unlikely due to anything other than the siding being repainted with a color darker than the original finish, causing excessive heat absorption; a dramatic expansion due to excessive heat will not allow the siding to return to its original shape or dimension

Solutions: The best solution in this situation is prevention. Always paint vinyl siding with a color matching or lighter than the original. Siding that has already become warped will have to be assessed by a licensed contractor to determine what the best plan of attack will be. It is unfortunate, but very likely that warped siding will need to be replaced.

Understanding & Prevention: As already stated, the solution and prevention for this situation are virtually the same. When choosing a paint for your siding, be sure to choose a very high quality acrylic latex (100% pure if you can find it) as it will have the superior flexibility necessary. While light colors will resist heat absorption, the siding will still be likely to flex in intense heat and cold. The acrylic paint will prevent cracking from these drastic changes in temperature, particularly where climate conditions can alter dramatically over short periods of time.

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Solutions should be simple to understand, easy to implement and, most of all, cost effective where possible. With today's high staff turnover in many D-I-Y (do-it-yourself) based businesses, it's difficult to get the advice and answers you need when faced with a common household paint problem.

Please check my other guides for other how-to ideas and tips on different painting projects. Please don't forget to vote! If this guide receives a lot of interest, I'll write another one, a continuation, of paint problems and issues. If there is a problem you'd like to see featured in a guide, please feel free to email my ebay address and I'll try to feature it in an upcoming guide. It is difficult to cover them all but those featured here are amongst the most common that I'm questioned about in my day-to-day business. Thanks for reading and best of luck with your project!

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