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Guides to Diamond Grading

by: kingofjewelry( 4276Feedback score is 1000 to 4,999) Top 10000 Reviewer
18 out of 18 people found this guide helpful.


4 C’s Of Diamonds

Various characteristics of diamonds are graded and categorized by the diamond industry.  Learning about diamonds is first learning about the "four Cs" of diamonds which are considered the most important grades and categories:

  • Cut
  • Clarity
  • Color
  • Carat weight


Cut

First, don't confuse diamond "cut" with "shape."  Shape refers to the general outward appearance of the diamond (such as round, emerald or pear).  When a diamond jeweler (or a diamond certificate) says "cut," that's in reference to the diamond's reflective qualities and not the shape.

Diamond cut is perhaps the most important of the four C's, so it is important to understand how this quality affects the properties and values of a diamond stone.  A good cut gives a diamond its brilliance, which is the brightness that seems to come from the very heart of a diamond.  The angles and finish of any diamond are factors that determines it's ability to handle light that leads to brilliance.

When a diamond is well-cut, light enters through the table and travels to the pavilion where it reflects from one side to the other before reflecting back out of the diamond through the table and to the observer's eye. This light is the brilliance we mentioned, and it's this flashing, fiery effect that makes diamonds so mesmerizing.

In a poorly cut diamond, the light that enters through the table reaches the facets and then 'leaks' out from the sides or bottom of the diamond rather than reflecting back to the eye. Less light reflected back to the eye means less brilliance.

Clarity

Most diamonds contain some inner flaws, or inclusions, that occur during the formation process.  The visibility, number and size of these inclusions determine what is called the clarity of a diamond.  Diamonds that are clear create more brilliance, and thus are more highly prized, and priced. 

When we speak of a diamond's clarity, we are referring to the presence of identifying characteristics on (blemishes) and within (inclusions) the stone. 

If you think about the incredible amount of pressure it takes to create a diamond and the fact that natural diamonds are not grown in a sterile laboratory, it's no surprise that most diamonds have flaws.

Basically there are two types of flaws: inclusions and blemishes. Inclusions refer to internal flaws and blemishes refer to surface flaws. However, in the diamond grades listed below, you'll note that none of the grades include the term "blemish" -- for the purposes of grading diamonds, all flaws are called "inclusions."

Inclusions include flaws such as air bubbles, cracks, and non-diamond minerals found in the diamond. Blemishes include scratches, pits, and chips. Some blemishes occur during the cutting processes (most often at the girdle). Diamonds with no or few inclusions and blemishes are more highly valued than those with less clarity because they are rarer.

How are diamonds graded for clarity?

Diamonds are graded for clarity under 10x loupe magnification. Grades range from Flawless (diamonds which are completely free of blemishes and inclusions), to Included 3 (diamonds which possess large, heavy blemishes and inclusions that are visible to the naked eye).
  • F - Flawless: No internal or external flaws. Extremely rare.
  • IF - Internally Flawless: no internal flaws, but some surface flaws. Very rare.
  • VVS1-VVS2 - Very Very Slightly Included (two grades). Minute inclusions very difficult to detect under 10x magnification by a trained gemologist.
  • VS1-VS2 - Very Slightly Included (two grades). Minute inclusions seen only with difficulty under 10x magnification.
  • SI1-SI2 - Slightly Included (two grades). Minute inclusions more easily detected under 10x magnification.
  • I1-I2-I3 - Included (three grades). Inclusions visible under 10x magnification AS WELL AS to the human eye. We do not recommend buying diamonds in any of these grades.
While the presence of these clarity characteristics (inclusions and blemishes) lowers the clarity grade of a diamond, they can also be viewed as proof of a diamond's identity. GIA certificates include what is known as a "plot" of a diamond's inclusions -- think of it as a "diamond fingerprint." Since no two diamonds are exactly the same, comparing the uniqueness of your diamond's clarity characteristics with the plot provided on the diamond certificate offers assurance that the diamond you pay for is the same diamond you receive.

Color

Colorless diamonds are the most desirable since they allow the most refraction of light (sparkle). Off white diamonds absorb light, inhibiting brilliance.

When jewelers speak of a diamond's color, they are usually referring to the presence or absence of color in white diamonds. Color is a result of the composition of the diamond, and it never changes over time.
Because a colorless diamond, like a clear window, allows more light to pass through it than a colored diamond, colorless diamonds emit more sparkle and fire. The formation process of a diamond ensures that only a few, rare diamonds are truly colorless. Thus the whiter a diamond's color is, the greater its value.
[NOTE: Fancy color diamonds do not follow this rule. These diamonds, which are very rare and very expensive, can be any color from blue to green to bright yellow. They are actually more valuable for their color.]
To grade 'whiteness' or colorlessness, most jewelers refer to GIA's professional color scale that begins with the highest rating of D for colorless, and travels down the alphabet to grade stones with traces of very faint or light yellowish or brownish color. The color scale continues all the way to Z.

Carat Weight

A carat is the unit of weight by which a diamond is measured. Because large diamonds are found less commonly than small diamonds, the price of a diamond rises exponentially to its size. Read this guide to get a better understanding of what a carat is and how it affects the appearance of a diamond.
 
A carat is a unit of measurement, it's the unit used to weigh a diamond. One carat is equal to 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams.
The word "carat" is taken from the carob seeds that people once used in ancient times to balance scales. So uniform in shape and weight are these little seeds that even today's sophisticated instruments cannot detect more than three one-thousandths of a difference between them.
[NOTE: Don't confuse "carat weight" with "karat," the method of determining the purity of gold.]
The process that forms a diamond happens only in very rare circumstances, and typically the natural materials required are found only in small amounts. That means that larger diamonds are uncovered less often than smaller ones. Thus, large diamonds are rare and have a greater value per carat. For that reason, the price of a diamond rises exponentially to its size.
 
 
 
 

Guide ID: 10000000008699852Guide created: 09/11/08 (updated 08/22/09)

 
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