Leopard geckos are small pleasant reptiles with calm dispositions. Growing 9-11 inches long they stay a reasonable size and can live up to 20 years. Their care is very easy. Housing for one animal can be as simple as a ten gallon tank. You can house two in a twenty gallon long tank. Two females can get along well, a male and a female can get along well, but the risk is very high that two males may fight.
The setup is simple, a humidity box, water dish, lighting and substrate. Leopard Geckos come from places such as Pakistan and India, locations that are hot and dry. Spraying down their cage with water is not needed, and not recommended.
The substrate best suited to them is Calcium Sand, unlike regular sand this is digestible so eating this bedding will not impact them. The water dish should be quite shallow as these are not large animals. The humidity box can be as simple as a small plastic food container with a hole in it and some moistened paper towels. They will spend time in this box fairly often
When Leopard Geckos shed, they will eat the shedding, the reason for this could be that the desert conditions where they live have poor nutrition, which would also explain why they build up great fat deposits on their tail, in any case it is one less thing that needs to be cleaned and nothing to be alarmed about if witnessed.
Spot clean the cage often, with a plastic spoon or paper towel to prolong the life of the substrate, if done enough, completely changing the bedding can be put off for longer.
Feeding these creatures is simple, usually every other day is good, up to 1 dozen crickets, each individual is different so you’ll soon settle into a feeding schedule with them as to how many crickets to feed.
Once an adult, Leopard geckos can but do not have to eat meal worms and pinkie (day old) mice. As an occasional treat wax worms may be fed, though they should be limited as they are greatly fattening and many geckos enjoy them so much they will, if fed them too often, refuse to eat anything else but wax worms.
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