Rule One: When buying on eBay…know your seller. The longer the history and the better the feedback the greater the guarantee of authenticity! Bid with confidence, no established seller will sully their reputation by intentionally listing a fake.

    The scope of this guide is to help enable both buyers and sellers to distinguish the difference between a genuine Hermes tie and the multitude of fakes. It is a relatively straight-forward task although there are many things to look for. As the different types of ties have somewhat different parameters we'll focus on the best known of all, the Hermes Alpha-Numeric Twill tie. If you have questions about the Heavy Silk Lourde, Scarf, Faconnee, Knit or Leather ties please don't hesitate to ask.

    Far and away, the greatest number of Hermes ties listed on eBay, and sold around the world, are the number and letter-coded lighter twill designs.These come in two essential types: the classic geometric patterns and the whimsical, animal inspired, designs. Regardless of design, all coded twill Hermes ties are printed in a multi-layered, many colored process (incidentally, while often imperceptible, Hermes does not recycle colors but blends and creates new colors for every new design). If given the chance, let your fingers do the walking and simply feel the fabric: a brand new Hermes tie will have a firm, almost stiff feel to the fabric which softens over time to a rich and supple softness.

    Hermes twill ties have a characteristic fold in the back while most fakes are simply tacked down and sewn together. Under this "dovetail" fold on the back of the wide end of the tie is a small thread loop approximately 1/2" to 1" long jutting through the silk lining. Hermes is the only tie maker in the world to utilize a trademarked single thread stitch from one end of the tie to the other (this thread runs the entire length of the tie, and back, and can also be found looped under the narrow end). This single stitch tucks under the rear folds of the tie and can be used to gently snug up the seams should they loosen over time. Fakes commonly utilize a less elegant heavy stitch closure to tack down the edges on the back of the tie.

    In terms of finish, the fakes are often shiny and stiff while a genuine Hermes tie is much more subtle and matte in appearance. The fakes are heavy feeling while the twill on the genuine ties is lighter. A ten year old Hermes tie is 3 1/4 inches wide, a 15 year old Hermes tie can be 4 inches wide and an older tie quite narrow. Most of the Asian fakes are slightly wider than the current standard of 3 5/8 inches (trending towards narrow again...) but, as these are hand-finished, dimensions do vary slightly.

    NB: Every printed and numbered Hermes tie has the bias of the twill running in the same direction. If you are looking at the tie, and imagine the face of a watch, the twill will always run from precisely 11 to 5 (8 to 2 for the scarf ties). This is quite significant as many of the fakes have a twill pattern that is the mirror image of the correct pattern; take the time to correctly discern this attribute and become familiar with it.

    The interior silk lining on a standard Hermes tie is the same color as the tie background and the twill pattern will run horizontally. The raised "H" lining commonly seen on fakes is particular to certain models of Hermes ties only (Heavy Silk Lourde and Faconnee come to mind); the correct lining for the printed twill tie is solid colored matching the primary color of the silk. If you see a printed tie that appears genuine, and the HHH lining is utilized, it is not the real deal. All authentic Hermes Whimsical and Geometric Ties have an Alpha-Numeric Code on the inner edge of the narrow point, about 5 inches from the tip. Study this code closely... it will consist of a two, three or four digit number that indicates the pattern code, followed by two letters that denote the design factory (EA, FA, HA, IA, MA, OA, PA, SA, TA or UA). Fakes will often, inexplicably, add more digits or some other confuser. The rectangular box that encloses the code will generally ( but not always) match a color from the front; it will always read: "MADE IN FRANCE" above the code and "100% SOIE" below the code. Note, also, the almost square box on the opposite side of the tie at about the same location as the code box as it will read "HERMES" over a smaller "PARIS" and both boxes will match in color. Scarf ties are an exception to this formula, as none of them carry an alpha-numeric designation. The label will be larger than that found on the standard twill ties and will read HERMES-PARIS. The twill differs, as well, running horizontally from 8 to 2 (once again, as on the face of a clock).

    Hermes labels, like their ties, have changed in size, shape, color, attachment and design over the years. The most commonly confused aspect of Hermes ties is associated with the label. Buyers new to Hermes mistakenly believe that the labels shown on 91 HA and 7850 UA, below, are the only labels that authenticate an Hermes tie. Not so, as you can see in the random assortment of labels depicted. While those labels are more common, and borne by the modern Hermes tie, the older labels are no less genuine. (NB: by no means are all of the types of Hermes labels are shown below, but rather, only a representative sampling). Use the label as one of the indicators of authenticity, not the only one!

    To enhance the appearance of authenticity many of the fakes are sold with boxes and embossed tissue paper. Hermes uses a plain, white, un-embossed tissue. Fake boxes are poorly constructed as a rule,  generally have a black border instead of the classic brown and the inner portion is not pure white and smooth. These boxes tend to be incorrectly shiny, as well. The fakes are getting better but none have yet come close to the feel, look, knot and drape of the genuine article.

    Are Hermes ties perfect in every way? Well, no. Hermes ties are magnificent, but they have two shortcomings. One, the colors are prone to rub off, especially with cleaning, leaving slightly lighter areas that are only visible at certain angles in certain light. And two, they tend to curl inwards at the edges, pushing the face out and the edges back. Not all Hermes ties suffer from these defects, but certain designs manufactured over the years, do. In the first case it was the dyes used at the time, in the second, the buckram lining. The sad reality is in that either case, nothing can be done. No amount of pressing will flatten out the tie; it is simply the nature of the materials used. I would recommend against further attempts to press it out as doing so will only weaken the material. Regarding the color, absolutely do not allow your cleaner to "spot" the tie, better a small stain than a larger, lighter patch. Rather, like a fine wine that tastes of cork, just drink through it, and admire the qualities that remain.

    Take your time when appraising the auction images and you will almost never be fooled. There are many, many Asian fakes on eBay and they can be spotted a mile away. The fakes on eBay are setting a new low standard of expectations for buyers who are being introduced to Hermes for the first time...and the fakes are getting better. Remember, if the price seems too good to be true then it is too good to be true! When possible buy from established sellers with a long history and positive feedback; the better the seller the better your experience will be.

    I have sold over 10,000 Hermes ties of all vintages over the years to experienced buyers and my feedback is universally favorable. I stand behind my ties 100%. I invite you to take the tie that you have purchased from me to any Hermes boutique for their opinion. I hope that this has been helpful. Please write me back if you have any more questions. Wear it well, Andrew.

A U T H E N T I C I T Y: Authenticity is a very important issue. I do not sell fakes, I never have. I do not condone the selling of replicas that are violating a copyright. It is a crime punishable by law and dishonest. There is nothing one can do about the amount of fakes being sold on eBay and everywhere else. We must only learn how to distinguish authentic items from replicas by knowing our designer items very well, studying our sellers, checking the items carefully, checking the prices and only buying from reputable sellers.

I DO NOT SELL FAKE ITEMS, EVER!!! BUY WITH CONFIDENCE. AUTHENTICITY IS GUARANTEED!!!!

    Hermes is more than ties, silk scarves and Kelly Bags... Thierry Hermes established his harness making firm in 1837, in 1879 son Emile-Charles Hermes extended the line to include saddle making. The 1920's saw the addition of couture, jewelry, silver, gold, gloves, watches, overnight bags, date books and silk scarves. In the 50's and 60's came perfumes, ties, shoes, beach towels, enameled jewelry as well as women's and men's clothes. Identified with  beautiful silk scarves, Hermes is known for the "Kelly Bag" which Grace Kelly made world famous.

    Hermes is a French company founded in 1837 by Thierry Hermes (1801-1878) to make leather goods. His family was originally from Germany and settled in Paris around 1828. His son Charles-Emile Hermes (1835-1919), and grandsons Adolphe Hermes and Emile-Maurice (1870-1951), continued to run the family firm after Thierry died. Emile-Maurice had four daughters, one of them married Robert Dumas. When Emile-Maurice died in 1951, his son-in-laws Robert Dumas (1905-1978) and Jean-Rene Guerrand (1901-1993) took over Hermes. They added the name Hermes to their own surname. Robert Dumas-Hermes introduced the Hermes Tie, the Beach towel and the Perfumes. When Robert Dumas died in 1978, his son Jean-Louis Dumas-Hermes (born 1938) took over the company. He is the 5th generation Chairman of Hermes. He is very much a "hands-on" chairman, taking a personal interest in every Hermes product or development. He travels extensively all over the world, and brings back ideas which go into Hermes product lines. His wife Rena is a Greek-born architect and is very involved with charitable activities and philanthropy; she is responsible for the new "look" of the Hermes boutiques. His son Pierre-Alexis is studied art in school. Hermes has remained a family-owned company. Only 20 % of it's shares are traded on the Paris Bourse. Annual sales top more than $ l billion. The ethic of meticulous craftsmanship learned in saddle-making is consistent throughout the company for every product they make. Hermes sales are made up of 30 % leather goods, 15 % clothes, 12 % scarves and 15% ties.

    The most coveted ties in the world are fashioned by the French House of Hermes. They embody refinement, masterful design, timeless style and a true sense of tradition. Brand New, most regular collection Hermes Ties command $170.00 and the scarf ties almost $100 more.

    From the International Herald Tribune, by Joseph Fitchett, January 25th 1997: Hermes Paris Stores Sell a Million Neckties Annually  - When neckties pulled ahead of women's ornate silk scarves as Hermes top-selling accessory, it marked a fashion revolution - and a global marketing coup. In less than five years, the Paris luxury goods house had zoomed to being a market leader in $100-plus neckwear, largely thanks to a new line of printed silk ties that featured elegantly drawn, colorful little animals. Jibes about ''animal cracker'' ties died in critics' throats as the ties suddenly became almost required wearing for politicians, businessmen and wannabees.
    
    In Hermes emporia from Paris to Hong Kong, men around stirrup-shaped brass racks wait for the opportunity to pull a trusted sales clerk aside in hopes of getting a lead on their pet tie out of the semi-annual collection of 70 or so. A lot of businessmen's international calls started to include an exchange of intelligence about what shop might still have a tie with blue bears on a white background. The global frenzy was a marketer's dream.
    
    Today, Hermes sells more than a million neckties a year, bringing in 10 percent of the French company's revenue. The animals' appeal has even revived interest in Hermes's more traditional ties, featuring geometric variations, usually on stirrups and other bits of tackle. There was nothing preordained about Hermes's coup. It had been selling ties since the 1950s (and in fact is credited with inventing silk-screen printing as a decorative alternative to weaving patterns in silk), but it was a minor line. Hermes only made ties at all because its Monte Carlo shop, located next door to the Casino, had spotted a small market in tie-less gamblers who needed neckwear to meet the dress code imposed at the gaming tables.
    
    Hermes only broke with its horsy traditions in the mid-1980s when it left behind its grouse and other game birds and showed instead stylized, often cheeky, wild animals, starting with elephants spouting water from their raised trunks. They proved to have wild appeal, so quickly ark loads of these creatures started adorning Hermes's sleekly finished ties: birds, hippos, pandas, koala bears, even lambs straight out of St. Exupéry's tale, ''The Little Prince.''
    
    Animal motifs had been tried in Italy by Gucci and especially by Ferragamo, but a big international clientele quickly started snapping up the snappy new Hermes designs. Professional people, who felt obliged to conform in their suits and shirts, saw the new ties as an expressive personal touch, says the Hermes CEO, Jean-Louis Dumas. The new Hermes ties caused a frenzy. As collections sold out, businessmen combed their international contacts to locate a sought-after tie. One Hermes-crazed businessman wanted to be buried in his Hermes ties stitched together as a shroud, according to François Chaille, author of a recent, authoritative study, ''The Book of Ties'' (Flammarion).
    
    How did Hermes come up with such a winner? The laws of fashion design dictate that ties must be serious in times of prosperity and light-hearted in times of crisis, so in the 1990s, European designers apparently were looking for something a little more playful. The new Hermes tie, with its fine workmanship, managed to carry off a witty affair with the boyish vernacular of novelty ties by alluding to pin-up figures, Santa Claus, flashing messages. The risk, obviously, was that Hermes's figures would end up looking like the Scotties, Johnnie Walkers or Chinese parasols that used to turn up on plastic swizzle sticks in hotsy-totsy bars. THEY did not, of course, mainly because Hermes adopted a sophisticated design known in the trade as an ''all-over'' - meaning a repeating pattern in which the small identical motifs recur in a regular design covering the entire cloth. ''Even St. Exupéry's tiny lambs, when repeated 200 times at regular intervals, can create a very dressy impression,'' Chaille says. And the new ties had the Hermes touch, including the special interlining that implants a subtle forward swell.
    
    Keeping silk ties from looking limp is so important that Pierre-Antoine Rabernin, the top tie salesman in the Paris store, does not want his clients to send their Hermes ties to be cleaned except to artisans who know how to remove the interlining and then sew it back in after the envelope of printed silk has been cleaned and pressed. (He recommends two places in Paris, Pressing de la Madeleine near the store and Anne Marie's near the Arch of Triumph.) In its new collection, Hermes has started edging away from the animal motifs, partly because they have been so widely imitated. For fans, the store is organizing a computerized search system designed to query every Hermes sales point and warehouse in an effort to locate any overlooked specimens of a customer's favorite animal tie.

    In 1949 the Hermès tie collection was introduced. Designs involved figurative, geometrics, classics, neo-classics and trompe I'oeil effects. Other options include the gavroche, pochette and novelty. There are 30 silk twill designs in each collection, approximately 25 new designs, plus 5 re-editions in new colorations. The heavy silk collection features 15 new designs each season.

    Silk twill ties are printed in exactly the same manner as a scarf with an average of 7 frames or colors per piece. The trademark feature of an Hermès tie is that it is made from only 2 pieces, cut by hand, the large side and the small side, rather than the 3 pieces generally used by competitors. The lining of Hermès ties always matches the background or base color from the front of the tie.

    A piece of "buckram" gives shape to the tie and is attached to the silk for longevity. The tie is then stitched with a single thread with no knotting during assembly. A loop is used at each end of the tie. Tie reference printed on the back of the small side corresponds to the design number, the letters indicate the mark of the craftsman who finished the tie by hand. A chic and funny Hermès ties with an interesting pattern: Elephants and Mice. This scarf can tell the well known anecdote of the mouse and elephant just with a few pictures. Elephant grey background, exquisite quality of the silk, thick and flawless.
    
    Brighten up your wardrobe and give it a witty touch.

    Hope this helped. Good luck and happy buying.  

    Questions?   Don't hesitate to ask... Andrew.