( 
)New or Used What To Do
The New Car: Why shouldn't I, I have always wanted one?
There is no one answer for this question. Did you know investing in a new car is the single worst investment you will ever make in your life time. Some new automobiles base price or the sticker price can exceed the cost of a many homes on the market today. Just because it is new does not mean it is trouble free or without bugs and headaches. Consider the monthly payments, cost of insurance, the 4 to 6 year term interest on the loan, the loss of your trade in value, the $2000 to $5000 added extras you need on the car, not to mention the operating cost to own it. Man does that start the wheels to rolling and the gears turning. Here is the bad part of the deal. As soon as you have the title place in your name you loose from $1000 to $5000 on the car befor you ever get a chance to drive it. Guess what, it is now a used car and has all ready started the depreciation process. Thought you purchased a new car, may-be not. The dealer you purchased it from now considers it as a used automobile. After a year of use the $30,000 dollar auto you could not do with out is now worth only about $15,000 or so. Two latter it is worth only $8,000 to $12,000 and on down the line. The numbers are only a guide line depending on the model you purchase. they could be lower or higher.
Now let's take a look at the up's and down's of buying a used car.
Just because it is used doesn't mean you have to have a bad experience. What if I were to decide to buy a used car, is that a good idea? Well this depends on your personal needs and circumstances. A well negotiated used car deal could be your best bet.Why is that so? You could pick out the car with the extras you need on the car and you save the $2,000 to $5,000 dollar cost of the extras. Insurance cost is much lower because the cost of repairs are lower and it is cheeper to replace the car if it were totaled (at savings of hundreds of dollars annually). The best part of all, the car has already taken it's highest annual depreciation of thousands of dollars.This means you are operating your used car on a much lower budget than if it were new. If you were a well informed trader and got a good deal on your used car, it is possible to drive it for a year and resale it ( it must be in good shap and not milled out) at no lose. The used car is now two years old and the rate of depreciation is not as great.
A Few Points That may Help 21 point Inspection:
UNDER HOOD COLD VISUAL CHECK
A. Look at the radiator before you drive the car (coolant is cold).
B. Put your hand on the top of the radiator or hose making sure it is cold before you remove the cap from the radiator.
C. With the cap off, look at the coolant. It should be pure and green in color or a clear yellow depending on the brand of coolant used. If it has a rusty or brown appearance, it needs a coolant flush and or service, or it may need repairs.
2. DRIVE BELT CHECK
A. Look over all drive belts ie; alternator, power steering, A/C, water pump, and fan belts.
B. Belts should be black and smooth, not frayed or cracked from drying
3. OIL CHECK CHECK:
A. Pull the dip stick and check the oil. If it is extremely dirty, the owner did not properly service the engine. Dealers sometimes change the oil before the sale. Don't let clean oil mislead you.
B. Look for off color oil such as a chocolate color with a foamy texture. Condensation or beads of water on the dip stick could mean a blown head gasket, cracked block or head and an expensive repair.
4. BRAKE FLUID CHECK:
A. Remove top from master cylinder. Fluid should be clear in appearance. If the fluid level is extremely low it could indicate worn pads, shoes or a leak in the system.
5. POWER STEERING FLUID CHECK:
A. Remove cap, if the fluid is extremely black and gritty it could mean expensive repairs or replacement of (if equipped) the rack and pinion steering unit or at least a flush and fluid change. If upon cold starts the steering wheel is hard to turn from one side to the other, or hangs up and brakes free to operate normally, it's evident the rack and pinion isin need of repair or replacement.
6. TRANSMISSION FLUID CHECK:
Transmission fluid should be checked for volume when the fluid is hot. However, at this point we are not so concerned with the amount of fluid the transmission contains but rather the condition of the fluid. Pull the dipstick and look at the fluid. Pull the dipstick through your fingertips visually checking for color and smell. The color and smell should be just as pure as a new bottle of transmission fluid. If it appears to be brown or has a burnt smell, repairs are just around the corner. In almost all cases when the fluid is brown and burnt, the transmission must be pulled out of the car to have a complete overhaul. Transmission overhauls can run $600.00 to $1000.00 or more, depending on the shop and the repairs made. This is the color it should be a soft bright pink not brown and look as though it is burned.
7. OIL LEAK CHECK:
Check for any oil leaks while you are under the hood. Look around the value covers. It has a tendency to run down the sides of the motor fromthe valve cover. Look over it well to insure the engine is dry of oil.
8. CHECK BATTERY CABLES:
Cables should not be corroded. The rubber coating around the cable itself must be intact. It should not be torn or worn to expose the copper cable inside. If this is the case the cable should be replaced.
9. HEATER AND RADIATOR HOSES CHECK:
A visual check of the coolant hoses could save a brake down on the highway and a roadside repair. Look for cracks and the general appearance of wear. Coolant may be leaking around the hoses clamps and fittings. Many of these small repairs, if discovered before the purchase can be included in the deal at the expense of the car dealer.
10. TIRE WEAR CHECK:
Walk around the car and look at the front tires. If the tires are worn on the inside or the outside edge of the tire and very little or no wear in the middle it is in need of a front end alignment. However, if the tires have bumps around the edges as though it were a roller coaster track up and down as you run your hand over the tread, the shocks are in need of replacement. Again negotiate this in the deal with the salesperson.
11. TAIL PIPE CHECK:
Inside the tailpipe of a normal burning automobile should be gray to a gray brown in color. If the tailpipe is black inside, it could be caused by a wide range of problems such as: a rich fuel mixture, worn rings, worn valve guides or defective exhaust valves and the list goes on. A good rule of thumb would be to use caution. Have it checked by a professional.
12. ENGINE NOISE CHECK:
Start the engine. As the engine cranks, listen for any unusual noises such as grinding, clicking, or a ringing sound. When the engine fires, listen for cold knocks in the motor or any unusual sounds you might hear. Any noises from the motor could mean expensive repairs. So once again, use caution if any noises are discovered. Also listen for a loud muffler.
13. LIGHTS AND TURN SIGNALS CHECK:
Check all lights and turn signal operation, making sure they function properly. The expense of repair or bulb replacement could be consumed by the dealer.
14. BRAKE PEDAL CHECK:
Place your foot on the brake pedal. Does it feel right? Is it too low, or does it feel mushy? It should feel firm and without excessive travel. You will have the opportunity to test them in more detail during the test drive.
15. EMERGENCY BRAKE OPERATION:
Engage the emergency brake all the way down. With the emergency brake on, and for safety during this test, put your foot on the brake pedal and apply pressure. With the transmission in a forward gear, slowly release the pressure from the foot throttle to check the effectiveness of the emergency brake. If the brake holds, it is okay. If in fact in fails, it would be in need of repairs.
16. CLUTCH PEDAL CHECK:
Once again, place your foot on the clutch pedal. Does it feel right to you? Put the car in gear with the clutch engaged. Slowly disengage the clutch (with the emergency brake on). It should engage at the bottom of its travel. Should it not engage until the top of the clutch pedal travel, it may well be in need of adjustment or replacement. List this this problem for negotiation with the dealer.
17. INSIDE THE CAR CHECK:
Check all your options as follows: radio, tape player, heater, air conditioning, rear window defogger and all other options the car may have. These are all repairs the dealer may spring for.
18. RESTRAINT SYSTEM CHECK:
You will want to check the seat belts and shoulder harness system. Most state laws prohibit the operation of a motor vehicle without them. It is important that they work properly for your own safety.
19. TEST DRIVE THE CAR:
As you drive the car, check the feel of the car. Don't be too anxious to turn on the radio. You know it works and you must listen for road noises. You are looking for anything that may be unusual in the normal operation of the vehicle. Listen for brakes rubbing, motor noises, tailpipe rattle, vibrations and noises that should not be there. If you still entertain the idea of purchasing this particular auto- mobile, it may be a good idea to take it to a local gas station. Have them put it on their rack and take a look at the underneath of the vehicle. The charge for this in comparison to the cost of the vehicle is minimal.
20. UNDR SIDE VISUAL CHECK:
A. If this vehicle is equipped with front wheel drive, be sure to check the rubber boots on the front axles. They may be cracked or torn.
B. Look for any fluid leaks.
C. Check for rusting frame or undercarriage.
D. Check for damaged or worn out exhaust system, or anything that may need attention or repair. List all items.
21. THE RIDE BACK:
On the way back to the lot, continue to be alert, listening for anything that might be unusual in the car's operation. Now, and only now, are you able to make an intelligent decision concerning the purchase of the car.
These tips should help avoid a lemon. Now go find a real peace of a deal.
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