Long, tall greenware can present a special problem when trying to remove it from ceramic molds. When left in the mold too long, it can crack. If removed too soon, the weight of the piece can cause the lower parts to buckle (not to mention the inside is still gooey.) Pieces with topheavy features are a nightmare to pour!

My worst nightmare to pour is a 13" large, thin, modern deco deer with heavier curved horns. Of course, they are on TOP of his head. Leaving slip in too long is one of the contributing factors for collapsing pieces. Because the piece is thicker inside (including the pathways which slip must exit through) the slip can get bottlenecked. I've asked several other folks how long to leave slip in for large, thin pieces and the answers vary from 20 to 45 minutes! 

TIP NUMBER ONE: Don't overpour your mold. Drain whatever you can out of it by SLOWLY pouring out the slip. If you do it too fast, the vacuum will collapse the sides of the piece!

TIP NUMBER TWO: Use a small, plastic needle (they're thicker) and examine your pour hole. Delicately prod each drainage opening to dislodge any bottlenecked slip which stops the flow.

TIP NUMBER THREE: Tip your mold left and right when draining it! For example, I have a horse who has a raised leg. The slip pools in it unless I lower the left side of the mold so the slip can run down the leg and out through the body. TAKE YOUR TIME when tipping. It takes eight minutes for that slip to work it's way down, then suddenly I have a river flowing out!

TIP NUMBER FOUR: The first rule of thumb when removing any greenware, is NOT to pry open the mold before it decides it's ready. When you gently try to pull it open, if it doesn't budge, leave it alone.

For taller pieces, (and larger ones) I have found it helpful to actually sit down in the floor with it! I don't open mine on tables or counters if the molds are large. Sit on the floor and lift the top part STRAIGHT UP.

TIP NUMBER FIVE- THE MAIN TIP: Once the mold is OPEN, leave it alone for 30 -40 minutes (at a minimum) in an upright position. Do not lay it down! The bottom pour hole must get plenty of air flow. After 30 minutes I usually tip them slightly against the wall, just in case the greenware dries quicker than anticipated. You don't want it to plop out! Taking the mold apart hardens the side which is directly exposed and helps give the entire piece support when you start removing it from the mold.

Bigger pieces can take several hours to dry. Before you try to remove the piece, very gently put a finger into the pour hole and feel as far up as you can. Is it still gooey? Shine a flashlight up into the piece. See any goo? Wait another fifteen to thirty minutes.

TIP NUMBER SIX: To loosen delicate parts of bigger items, I gently wiggle the bigger, substantial areas (such as the horse's BODY.) This will help loosen dainty ears and other extending parts. Be sure and pull straight out on the mold so it doesn't scrape the damp greenware. Wiggling the piece beforehand helps to ensure the bottom comes out easily.

With larger pieces, if your piece starts to buckle, you can ease it straight back into the mold so it can again support the weight. Leave it for ten to fifteen more minutes.

If you work better with your right hand, you may want to pull the piece out TO THE LEFT, with your RIGHT hand holding the mold at the top. Why? The TOP part is the hardest to loosen/get out. Your dexterity with your best hand is need there!

Hopefully, if you encounter a problem, now you have some guidelines and you can see if you need to change your procedures. I've got some doozy pieces at Ceramic Emporium which required MANY repeat castings before I could easily predict how long to leave them in the mold, and how to manuever them out. Don't give up, and happy pouring!