Even though many flute teachers are active Ebayers, we tend to cringe
when a student comes into our studio or music room with a flute bought
on Ebay. The reason for this is that non-flutists who buy flutes
often have no idea of what is appropriate. Therefore, the student
comes in with something may not work well for a variety of reasons.
Here are a few tips to consider when purchasing a flute for your
student on Ebay:
- Just because the listing says the flute is "teacher approved"
does not mean that it actually is. Ask your child's teacher, if
possible, before you make your purchase. I really appreciate it when a
parent asks my advice before spending big money on something that could
potentially be inappropriate.
- Make sure your local music store is willing to fix that
particular brand of flute. One of my local music stores refers to
some flutes as "ISOs" or "Instrument-Shaped-Objects". They will
not fix them. Why? Because the metals are inferior, the
pads are inferior and often not installed correctly. Parts cannot be
purchased for them. Sometimes the keys will even snap off while
attempting repairs! Before purchasing a flute, call your music
store and ask them whether they will fix "X" brand of flute. Beginning
students will undoubtedly have "issues" such as bent keys or dents
during that first year or two. It happens so very easily, and if nobody
will fix your flute, you will be out the money you've invested plus the
money you will have to spend to buy another instrument.
- There is nothing wrong with a used instrument. Your money
is better spent investing in a good quality used instrument than a
brand-new poor quality instrument. You'll get more bang (or
toots) for your buck, so-to-speak...but, make sure to have it checked
at the shop and be prepared to spend some money on adjustments and pad
replacements.
- Pad condition is always an issue when purchasing a flute. A
pad replacement job can cost $100+ for a beginner flute so keep this in
mind when purchasing. You can avoid this cost by looking for
listings that state that the flute was recently repadded. "Shop
adjusted" is a good second, but it does not mean that the pads
necessarily have a lot of life left in them. Just because the
seller states that the pads "look good" to them does not mean that they
are good unless your seller is a professional flutist or flute teacher
with tons of experience in evaluating the condition of flute
pads. If your seller has pictures that show the actual pads, look
for tears, tracks where bugs have eaten, and dark rings from
wear. While this does not ensure that the pads are all in good
condition, it may help to avoid a complete re-pad job when you get the
instrument.
- What's the difference between a beginner flute, intermediate (or
step-up) flute, and a professional flute? There are actually many
factors which often include the amount of silver (not silver plating
but solid silver), whether or not the flute has a "C" or "B" foot, open
holes, and the maker. Beginner flutes have closed holes although
you can occasionally find professional flutes that also have closed
holes (such as old Haynes flutes which are great for jazz musicians who
are not primarily flutists, for instance). Beginner flutes are usually
silver plated.
- Intermediate flutes (sometimes called step-up flutes) often introduce open holes and range from silver plating only to solid silver. Keep in mind that sometimes only the headjoint is silver while the body may be silver plated. With step-up or intermediate flutes, usually a minimum of open holes and solid silver headjoint is desirable. Silver improves the sound quality achieved and the headjoint is the component most responsible for that sound. Arguments about about the "C" versus the "B" footjoint. It simply depends upon the level of literature being played by the student. Professionals in this day often have a "B" footjoint but students honestly rarely use them before the college level. I prefer the "B" footjoint just because it enables all the possibilities of literature playing. The inline versus the offset G key is simply a matter of hand size. Older flutes are often inline because that's how they were traditionally made. However, inline and offset flutes play exactly the same. If your student has small hands (this is a problem for many women), then the offset G will be more comfortable and will help to avoid repetitive motion injuries to the left hand and wrist. If the world of intermediate flutes is confusing...you are not alone! Please consult a flute teacher who will be happy to guide you to the right investment for your student's development and needs.
- Professional flutes are usually solid silver and may even have gold content (not gold plating...that belongs to beginning and intermediate flutes). The bottom line is that beginners should play on beginning flutes and when you believe that your student is ready to advance to a higher-level flute, consult a teacher or at least do some research on makers' websites. Beginners do not need open-holed flutes. Open holes will improve sound quality and technique, but not until the flutist is developmentally ready for them. And remember that just because an item is listed as a professional or step-up flute doesn't mean that it is.
Guide created: 06/22/06 (updated 09/24/08)


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